I love using them. But I would imagine it would be no different in a roll race scenario? Paddles give you the best advantage of putting your car in the power band before a hit. I guess I could try the same thing in automatic and see what happens. I haven’t tried that yet.
10/4 I’ll give it a shot described this way.
I thought in “s” the paddles were the only thing that allow the car to upshift? It will downshift on its own coming to a stop but otherwise the driver has to upshift. That’s how these runs are being done in “s” with paddles
Which is exactly why I’m confused. In my mind I should be able to max out to 155mph with no issues upshifting yet the car seems to cut power in the middle of a pull. Really need to figure this out. I’ll take any ideas lol.
I already told you. There is likely an ECU override when using the Paddles that kicks in at certian speed/rpms combos. I think ive seen it in a video somewhere. Put it in drive and try it again. And try not to kill yourself looking for something wrong with your car.
That does make the most sense. Yeah it otherwise is perfect. Doesn’t consume any oil that I can tell and runs awesome.I already told you. There is likely an ECU override when using the Paddles that kicks in at certian speed/rpms combos. I think ive seen it in a video somewhere. Put it in drive and try it again. And try not to kill yourself looking for something wrong with your car.
I’m gonna do a run in drive and monitor what happens.
It has to be this. Did a pull in sports mode in drive just mashed the throttle and it absolutely pulled no issues no hiccups nothing. Now I’d really like to understand more about what you are trying to say. In my mind whether in drive or using paddles the car should just go as long as you are not hitting the rev limiter.I already told you. There is likely an ECU override when using the Paddles that kicks in at certian speed/rpms combos. I think ive seen it in a video somewhere. Put it in drive and try it again. And try not to kill yourself looking for something wrong with your car.
Thanks for the photos! It really helped me, I recently installed the OEM PP transmission cooling system and made a post about it but I haven't had much driving or time to test and compare trans temps. What temps do you normally see during spirited driving or hard pulls?I will try to explain the setup as best I can after inspecting it on my PP. I will reference the photos below.
Photo 1: The transmission cooler is shown with green and red labels in front of the pan. This cooler is the part that is the same on the PP as the non-PP. On the PP the lines on the left and right labeled aux cooler run to the front of the car where the aux cooler is located. On non-PP cars the line on the right runs back into the cooler on the left side where it is labeled aux cooler.
The center two lines labeled radiator run to the radiator on both the PP and non-PP cars.
Photo 2: This shows where the two center lines running to the radiator are located right behind the radiator fan as well as the lines running to the auxiliary cooler.
Photo 3: The auxiliary transmission cooler sandwiched between the radiator (rear) and a/c condenser (front).
Photo 4: Driver’s side of the radiator where the cooling lines connect.
Hopefully that is helpful for someone. It was interesting to me if nothing else.
Track driving on road courses (HPDE) it is usually around 218-221. I did have it get to 230 on a couple of occasions back when I was allowing it to shift on its own in auto mode a few times when the weather was cooler. I never got any code or warning, but the transmission started acting up at those temps. Kind of odd that it got too hot on cooler days, but never gave me trouble on a blistering July day at Road Atlanta. All I can think is it had something to do with the fan not kicking on because the coolant temp was fine, but that's just a guess.
BTW, I read your posts about the upgrade, and I'm impressed you saw the whole project through. I don't know that I would have had the fortitude to complete that. LOL
