🚨The S650 Oil Change is a Nightmare 🚨 💡Here’s How I’d Fix It💡

[goodlettjr]

Just repeating what I read on here......whoever designed this underbody panel clearly never had to do their own maintenance. Now I personally have mine done for me because my time is money, but I understand the need and frustration.

To change the oil, you have to remove what feels like half the underside of the car:

• A boat load of screws and plastic push clips depending on trim
• Deal with awkward panel alignment during reinstall
• Oil inevitably finding its way all over the panel and your arms
• Eventually the underbody panel working loose and coming off on the road (this already happened to me)

And after a few oil changes, those OEM clips and holes are going to get looser and more annoying every single time.

Honestly, I think there’s a huge opportunity here for an aftermarket solution specifically for DIY owners.

Option 1:
A full replacement underbody panel system that is:

• Stronger and more durable than the OEM plastic
• Properly meshes / fits to the secondary rear panel
• Designed for repeated removal/install cycles
• Uses Cleco style fasteners instead of screws and the Christmas tree push type pins

For anyone unfamiliar, Cleco fasteners are used all the time in fabrication and race car work (we use them on Asphalt Super Late Models). With the special Cleco pliers, removal and install is insanely fast and consistent. No stripped screws. No broken clips. No fighting alignment holes after the 5th oil change.

Option 2:
Keep the OEM-style full panel, but integrate a dedicated oil service access door.

• Retains the factory mounting points and outer hardware
• Add a reinforced access panel
• Ase Cleco-style fasteners only for the service door

That would let you do an oil change in minutes instead of removing the entire tray every single time.

Something like this for the fasteners:
https://clecofasteners.info/product...kk-0-1-4-grip-plier-operated-cleco-fasteners/

Am I crazy here, or would other S650 owners actually buy this? I would buy it just so the people changing my could experience the ease of it.

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[GhastlyTT]

I change my oil filter through the driver side wheel well with strategically placed aluminum foil.

 

[D/\rK•650]

Just repeating what I read on here......whoever designed this underbody panel clearly never had to do their own maintenance. Now I personally have mine done for me because my time is money, but I understand the need and frustration.

To change the oil, you have to remove what feels like half the underside of the car:

• A boat load of screws and plastic push clips depending on trim
• Deal with awkward panel alignment during reinstall
• Oil inevitably finding its way all over the panel and your arms
• Eventually the underbody panel working loose and coming off on the road (this already happened to me)

And after a few oil changes, those OEM clips and holes are going to get looser and more annoying every single time.

Honestly, I think there’s a huge opportunity here for an aftermarket solution specifically for DIY owners.

Option 1:
A full replacement underbody panel system that is:

• Stronger and more durable than the OEM plastic
• Properly meshes / fits to the secondary rear panel
• Designed for repeated removal/install cycles
• Uses Cleco style fasteners instead of screws and the Christmas tree push type pins

For anyone unfamiliar, Cleco fasteners are used all the time in fabrication and race car work (we use them on Asphalt Super Late Models). With the special Cleco pliers, removal and install is insanely fast and consistent. No stripped screws. No broken clips. No fighting alignment holes after the 5th oil change.

Option 2:
Keep the OEM-style full panel, but integrate a dedicated oil service access door.

• Retains the factory mounting points and outer hardware
• Add a reinforced access panel
• Ase Cleco-style fasteners only for the service door

That would let you do an oil change in minutes instead of removing the entire tray every single time.

Something like this for the fasteners:
https://clecofasteners.info/product...kk-0-1-4-grip-plier-operated-cleco-fasteners/

Am I crazy here, or would other S650 owners actually buy this? I would buy it just so the people changing my could experience the ease of it.

I'd definitely buy this! An aftermarket for this is definitely needed.

 

[Epiphany]

I'd use a Dzus before I'd ever use a Cleco.

 

[goodlettjr]

I'd use a Dzus before I'd ever use a Cleco.

I've never used those on a body panel in circle track. All of our bodies are fiberglass with plastic nose and bumpers. Only use the Clecos for fitment then rivet it in place. Body panels may make it a race or make it 3 races. You would spend a fortune on Dzus in a season. Plenty of other things to spend it on. But all that aside, the cleco is just part of the idea. Could be something different like Dzus...it was more for the concept.

 

[Epiphany]

Only use the Clecos for fitment then rivet it in place

You said it yourself. A Cleco has a long body (even the shorties). They aren't for use in a dynamic environment. They are for fitment only.

You would spend a fortune on Dzus in a season.

That's weird. I could have sworn we were talking about fasteners to ease use on panels to allow for better oil change access. I don't think anyone cares about what would be used for a season on a circle track car. If you used Dzus fasteners, you'd buy a few, install them, and be done on your street or track driven Mustang.

On edit and for the record...

Circle track cars across the nation use Dzus fasteners. They have been in use for decades...

https://www.joesracing.com/products/fasteners-fabrication/dzus-fasteners/
https://www.smileysracing.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=97371&c=0

 

[LouG]

I'm not fussed about the time it takes. I tend to let the oil drain for a while anyway. I got used to this new fangled aero panels business with Euro cars. But I would think about better fasteners.

 

[Will2]

You can save a little time and complication by completely omitting the plastic fasteners.
Just the 7mm bolts alone are enough to hold the undertray securely.

 

[goodlettjr]

You can save a little time and complication by completely omitting the plastic fasteners.
Just the 7mm bolts alone are enough to hold the undertray securely.

I already lost mine and had to get another one. I'm sure I wouldn't have lost it at freeway speeds, but I did. I'm sure that the quality of reinstalling it was part of the issue, but nonetheless, a few more bucks and more importantly the time it took to locate a dealer with one in stock. Took 4 calls. Should have just asked them to check the locator for one locally. Got it replaced while I did my oil change.

 

[DarkHorsePremium]

I'm still about 400 miles away from the first change. I've been removing the full underbody engine covers on my LGT and STI for the last 2 decades, every 3k. So whatever Ford has going will be different but not anything new for me. With the exception of the oil filter. On Subaru EJ motors the filters are at the bottom and are upward facing. No angles. For the 5.0, it looks like you have to sacrifice a Ziploc or plastic shopping bag to keep oil from getting all over the cross members. It's the price we pay for fun.

 

[Wiley Marmot]

That's funny? My dealer's technician has never complained about any of that stuff when he changes my oil and filter.

For the record: I hear what your saying; the Focus RS and Focus ST I owned before my GT both had "rat fur" under trays and a plethora of small screws holding them in place. Needless to say; they were on and off every time I wanted to access the under side of the engine bay for any reason.

The RS under tray actually disintegrated and had to be taken off for safety reasons. I replaced it with an ADF Customs aluminum skid plate

https://www.adfcustoms.com/shop/fors/16skidplate-7mgxb-yddhz

with filter and drain plug access doors. Sounds like what @goodlettjr was suggesting in his OP. The ADF SP was pretty heavy duty (also intended to protect the RS from rocks and stones kicked up during gravel road sessions of ill advised rallying by the owner), and likely could be a lighter material for our GTs/DHs.

Oh....................and the ADF used fewer and larger fasteners than the OEM tray.

 

[CMcA]

no problems since the first oil change. just haven't reinstalled the underbody panel

 

[Ducatti20]

I've done 4 oil changes at this point and it really isn't that hard IMO. Getting my ramps to stay in place in my garage takes longrt than the actual oil change lol. (they slide on my garage epoxy floor).
I thought about making a hatch for the filter on oil change #2 but decided it just wasn't worth it for me.

 

[goodlettjr]

That's funny? My dealer's technician has never complained about any of that stuff when he changes my oil and filter.

For the record: I hear what your saying; the Focus RS and Focus ST I owned before my GT both had "rat fur" under trays and a plethora of small screws holding them in place. Needless to say; they were on and off every time I wanted to access the under side of the engine bay for any reason.

The RS under tray actually disintegrated and had to be taken off for safety reasons. I replaced it with an ADF Customs aluminum skid plate

https://www.adfcustoms.com/shop/fors/16skidplate-7mgxb-yddhz

with filter and drain plug access doors. Sounds like what @goodlettjr was suggesting in his OP. The ADF SP was pretty heavy duty (also intended to protect the RS from rocks and stones kicked up during gravel road sessions of ill advised rallying by the owner), and likely could be a lighter material for our GTs/DHs.

Oh....................and the ADF used fewer and larger fasteners than the OEM tray.

The RS underbody panel is right up the idea I was sharing.

Potentially could give more downforce as well for those that desire it.

 

[Tigerchevelle]

The RS underbody panel is right up the idea I was sharing.

Potentially could give more downforce as well for those that desire it.

I didn't feel it was a big deal to R&R
Heck I did the mustangs oil change, then my 09 Z06 right after which has a drysump and the car has a procedure that need to be done in oil removal and when filling.

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