Normal A10 Transmission Temperatures?

[TheGrabberBlueGT2024]

@TheGrabberBlueGT2024

I'd encourage you to monitor your trans temps during NORMAL driving conditions to get a base line and report back. They should be 205-215 fully warm.

After that, do some pulls and use the Paddles. When your temps go up, go back to normal driving for while and see if they drop back down.

If normal temps are in the 205-215 range, and the 230 temps come back down after hard driving, I wouldn't be concerned. If however, you are seeing consistent temps near 230, then I would bring it to the dealer and have them check the system. Yes, low fluid fill will cause high temps. Just because it's shifting normal doesn't mean the fill can't be a little low.

Report back and let us know!

10/4. After reading this thread I have started to lean more and more to just changing out the stock stuff entirely.

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[AZ_Ryan]

10/4. After reading this thread I have started to lean more and more to just changing out the stock stuff entirely.

What? Why? No offense but I think youre jumping to conclusions. The PP aux cooler is designed for track use. And the poster above said he still saw temps of 221 with the PP.

Take a breath and determine if you have an actual problem first.

 

[TheGrabberBlueGT2024]

What? Why? No offense but I think youre jumping to conclusions. The PP aux cooler is designed for track use. And the poster above said he still saw temps of 221 with the PP.

Take a breath and determine if you have an actual problem first.

Not for any negative reasons. I run amsoil sig series in the engine oil due to reasoning that I believe it’s better than the factory stuff. I would swap the trans oil for the same reasons.

 

[TheGrabberBlueGT2024]

@TheGrabberBlueGT2024

I'd encourage you to monitor your trans temps during NORMAL driving conditions to get a base line and report back. They should be 205-215 fully warm.

After that, do some pulls and use the Paddles. When your temps go up, go back to normal driving for while and see if they drop back down.

If normal temps are in the 205-215 range, and the 230 temps come back down after hard driving, I wouldn't be concerned. If however, you are seeing consistent temps near 230, then I would bring it to the dealer and have them check the system. Yes, low fluid fill will cause high temps. Just because it's shifting normal doesn't mean the fill can't be a little low.

Report back and let us know!

Did some small pulls then a wot pull. Not sure if this qualifies but my engine oil temp got up to 264 trans temp went up to 212 and then back to 206 then 204. Oil temp surprised the heck outta me had only seen like 259 before hand.

 

[TheGrabberBlueGT2024]

Was ambient temperature a little lower than intake temperature ? aka a warm day.

230F is fine for engine oil, however 17psi is a little on the low side for what i assume is idle.
Mine (still on factory oil, about to be changed after first 6 months) sits at 28-29psi hot (205f) idle.

Pressure does drop significantly with temperature but that seems like a lot.

Ran it today 60mph 6th gear 3k rpm’s oil psi was 65-68
Idle again once parked and running was 18psi

 

[krisk]

Did some small pulls then a wot pull. Not sure if this qualifies but my engine oil temp got up to 264 trans temp went up to 212 and then back to 206 then 204. Oil temp surprised the heck outta me had only seen like 259 before hand.

I’ve had the oil temp get to 276 on the track in my PP. Cylinder head temperature was 231. No high temp warnings. I run Motorcraft synthetic oil and change after about 700-800 track miles. My oil life monitor is usually around 20-30% remaining life.

Edit: Looking back at my mileage, I’ve actually only had about 400 track miles at the oil changes with another couple hundred street miles.

 

[TheGrabberBlueGT2024]

I’ve had the oil temp get to 276 on the track in my PP. Cylinder head temperature was 231. No high temp warnings. I run Motorcraft synthetic oil and change after about 700-800 track miles. My oil life monitor is usually around 20-30% remaining life.

Wow you must have been driving hard. Do you know if these cars are limited from factory in terms of mph?

 

[krisk]

Wow you must have been driving hard. Do you know if these cars are limited from factory in terms of mph?

Track driving puts significantly more strain on the car compared to what you can possible do on the street.

I’ve heard they are limited to 155mph, but I’ve only gotten mine it 144, so I don’t have first hand experience.

 

[TheGrabberBlueGT2024]

I’ve heard they are limited to 155mph, but I’ve only gotten mine it 144, so I don’t have first hand experience.

On a dead straight doing wot pulls. Getting to triple digits The car has kicked out before. I don’t believe it to be to hitting the rev limiter. Just can’t figure out why it’s stopping during acceleration. Talking 130+ which is why I figured maybe it’s limited or something.

 

[krisk]

On a dead straight doing wot pulls. Getting to triple digits The car has kicked out before. I don’t believe it to be to hitting the rev limiter. Just can’t figure out why it’s stopping during acceleration. Talking 130+ which is why I figured maybe it’s limited or something.

At Roebling Road I was coming out of turn 9 in the mid 90’s then it’s wot on the front straight up to 144moh before braking. I ran 115 laps over two days and never felt like it cut power.

 

[TheGrabberBlueGT2024]

At Roebling Road I was coming out of turn 9 in the mid 90’s the it’s wot on the front straight up to 144moh before braking. I ran 115 laps over two days and never felt like it cut power.

I’m gonna test it with the car in drive.

 

[TheGrabberBlueGT2024]

Track driving puts significantly more strain on the car compared to what you can possible do on the street.

I’ve heard they are limited to 155mph, but I’ve only gotten mine it 144, so I don’t have first hand experience.

I don’t know how to explain what the car is doing I will try the best I can. I did a pull from about 85mph foot down using paddles and the car accelerated good like it always does. I don’t have the exact number but it was like 135-137mph the car briefly stopped accelerating. Then it acts like nothing happened and will continue pulling I took photos of the temps. This isn’t the first time it has happened anytime I attempt a high speed run it does the same thing. Is there a fuel cutoff or something? That’s about what I would describe it as. It’s like everything just sorta “stops”. The attached photo is afterwards when it started cooling down. The engine oil temp did hit 260.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

Man, you really are driving your car hard. I sure hope its been broken in properly. So whats the complaint here? Trans temp, oil, temp, or hesitation above 135 mph? You're kinda all over the place here. Can I respectfully ask what you are using the car for?

 

[TheGrabberBlueGT2024]

Man, you really are driving your car hard. I sure hope its been broken in properly. So whats the complaint here? Trans temp, oil, temp, or hesitation above 135 mph? You're kinda all over the place here. Can I respectfully ask what you are using the car for?

The thread started out as an Informational for trans oil temps because I can’t find any hard data. I believe that to be answered or atleast understood as I can’t tell that the car is really getting hot. It appears to follow every other GT in terms of how it handles temps. For some background this is my second GT I had a 2018 GT had it for several years before I sold it never had any issue or hiccup. I use the car as a daily driver currently I plan to retire it this year and get a beater I changed the factory oil at 1911 miles. Blackstone laboratories sample saw no issues with the oil. The only real engine mod the car has is upr catch cans passenger side and driver side. I never even did a wot pull until after the car hit 1k miles. I never even took the car over 6k rpm’s until 1k miles. For the first 500 I tried my best to shift at 5k rpm’s. I varied speeds and rpm ranges to help everything seat correctly. I’m no expert but I do believe I have done everything in my power to make sure it was broken in properly. I read mustang 6g and 7g posts religiously to ensure I have the right idea. The car is onyx ceramic coated and suntek ppf’d. It really does get treated well. On a day to day it doesn’t get driven hard only ever sees highway speeds 75-80mph and sometimes not even that. The purpose of me performing the test was because I saw an opportunity to get feedback on an issue I have been having from another owner. I hope that wasn’t to much. Yes, on more than one occasion during a high speed pull using paddles it is like the car just gives out or cuts fuel past 130mph then it just goes back to normal like it never even happened. But because it interrupts the run I just stop. I can’t find anything that would have made it do that the only thing I saw was that the oil temp did hit 260. Which I don’t believe to be the cause but it’s good to mention.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

The thread started out as an Informational for trans oil temps because I can’t find any hard data. I believe that to be answered or atleast understood as I can’t tell that the car is really getting hot. It appears to follow every other GT in terms of how it handles temps. For some background this is my second GT I had a 2018 GT had it for several years before I sold it never had any issue or hiccup. I use the car as a daily driver currently I plan to retire it this year and get a beater I changed the factory oil at 1911 miles. Blackstone laboratories sample saw no issues with the oil. The only real engine mod the car has is upr catch cans passenger side and driver side. I never even did a wot pull until after the car hit 1k miles. I never even took the car over 6k rpm’s until 1k miles. For the first 500 I tried my best to shift at 5k rpm’s. I varied speeds and rpm ranges to help everything seat correctly. I’m no expert but I do believe I have done everything in my power to make sure it was broken in properly. I read mustang 6g and 7g posts religiously to ensure I have the right idea. The car is onyx ceramic coated and suntek ppf’d. It really does get treated well. On a day to day it doesn’t get driven hard only ever sees highway speeds 75-80mph and sometimes not even that. The purpose of me performing the test was because I saw an opportunity to get feedback on an issue I have been having from another owner. I hope that wasn’t to much. Yes, on more than one occasion during a high speed pull using paddles it is like the car just gives out or cuts fuel past 130mph then it just goes back to normal like it never even happened. But because it interrupts the run I just stop. I can’t find anything that would have made it do that the only thing I saw was that the oil temp did hit 260. Which I don’t believe to be the cause but it’s good to mention.

My guess is that's RPM/paddle shift related. Probably a built in fail safe to keep you from breaking your transmission. Why are you using Paddles during high speed runs?

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