Oil drain plug replacement brand recommendations?

[BLUEZL600EFI]

What brand are you all recommending for a replacement aluminum oil pain drain plug?
I am going for my first oil change soon and my dealer said they will swap it out if I bring it with. I want to get one that has the turn to drain to make doing them myself easier moving forward. I have seen a few different brands anyone better?

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[Skye]

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco/

I installed my UPR plug last season. Well-made. I'll be changing the oil soon and expect things to go great.

*The product highlighted above supports the Gen 3. IDK if it supports the Gen 4.

https://www.femco.com/

I have not used Femco, but they also appear to make a nice product.

 

[LCDRChemEng]

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco/

I installed my UPR plug last season. Well-made. I'll be changing the oil soon and expect things to go great.

*The product highlighted above supports the Gen 3. IDK if it supports the Gen 4.

https://www.femco.com/

I have not used Femco, but they also appear to make a nice product.

this...

 

[LCDRChemEng]

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-for...for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco/

I installed my UPR plug last season. Well-made. I'll be changing the oil soon and expect things to go great.

*The product highlighted above supports the Gen 3. IDK if it supports the Gen 4.

https://www.femco.com/

I have not used Femco, but they also appear to make a nice product.

A friend of mine says the oil filter mount on his Ford has some weird folding tray that makes it easier and neater to swap out the canister. Do you know if this is also the case with the Coyote or, if not, is there an aftermarket gig to keep the mess to a minimum?

 

[Skye]

...his Ford has some weird folding tray that makes it easier and neater to swap out the canister.

Attached is a photo highlighting what I believe you're referring to.

Overall, the bellypan of the S550 Mach 1.

Inside the blue circle is an access port, a flap, several square inches, tens of centimeters square.

The flap or port is secured by a single bolt, circled in yellow.

With the bolt loosened and the flap removed, you're immediately presented with a diagonal cross-member and rather large bundle of wires. There is enough space to place one arm through the port and touch the filter and engine. You can also place a second hand along side of your arm, leaving the second hand just outside the port. Extend your arm fully. With your second, touch the hand of the second arm to the elbow of the first; this kind of gives you an idea.

Knowing a bit of this, I bought these filter wrenches:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-4568

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LIL-57020

The first filter wrench is a three-finger set, designed to grip and remove difficult filters or filters in tight spaces. I used it and it worked great. I had one hand inside the cavity touching the wrench to the filter, my other hand outside the port, holding a socket wrench and loosening. The three-finger unit beared down on positively-gripped the filter.

I bought the second, more traditional filter wrench, as kind of a backup. You'll notice from the photos it has abrasive gripper-like spots. I did not use this wrench, but probably could have. Using one hand. I'm using this filter as an upgrade to one for other vehicles.

The factory filter was not incredibly tight. It was snug. Some have reported otherwise.

Getting the new filter on is simple. I confirmed the old filter gasket was off, lubed the new and screwed down hand tight, 3/4 of a turn once the gasket met the block. No problems since.

The standard factory and replacement filters are somewhat slim. With other assemblies nearby, the Ford Performance filter, a larger, wider version of the standard factory filter, cannot be used; it's to wide and this might be the case with the Gen 4 as well.

I mentioned a crossmember and wires immediately past the access port. First, I placed a t-shirt over the wire bundle, to absorb any oil that might rain down from the filter. Then, I took a piece of cardboard, which I bent into a slim "V". Finally, I shaped tin foil over the "V" and slid that into the port, to rest just below where the oil filter meets the block.

With the filter initially broken loose so I could then unscrew, I back it off and let the oil drain down the "V". Once it pretty much stopped, I removed the filter and "V".

All that seems kind of dragged out. It's tedious. I didn't spend all day on it. But it wasn't messy. Most importantly, everything involved stayed clean and dry.

Regarding draining the oil itself, the first one is always a PITA. I laid a plastic tarp down and several t-shirts. Oil shoots straight out the back. Some use cardboard deflectors, to route the oil into the receiving pan. But with that out of the way, you can then install the UPR, Femco or other like plug to make future changes easier.

I suspect the Gen 4s will be same as Gen 3s? waiting to read more of any differences with respect to drain plugs or access. There's nothing wrong with the factory Gen 3 drain plug, but given the position of the plug and conditions, it's nice to have something with granular control, something that allows one to adjust the rate at which the oil is draining.

 

[Aramis76]

I hadn't realized they had gone back to alum and normal drain plug.

If that's the case and there's room, it'll be fumoto for me.

 

[HWill]

I haven't looked but if it used the same style as the 18 F150 I was going to use Ronin Factory.

https://roninfactory.com/products/ford-f150-raptor-oil-drain-ronin-factory

I used it on my Whippled 18 F150 and really made oil changes super easy.

 

[LCDRChemEng]

Attached is a photo highlighting what I believe you're referring to.

Overall, the bellypan of the S550 Mach 1.

Inside the blue circle is an access port, a flap, several square inches, tens of centimeters square.

The flap or port is secured by a single bolt, circled in yellow.

With the bolt loosened and the flap removed, you're immediately presented with a diagonal cross-member and rather large bundle of wires. There is enough space to place one arm through the port and touch the filter and engine. You can also place a second hand along side of your arm, leaving the second hand just outside the port. Extend your arm fully. With your second, touch the hand of the second arm to the elbow of the first; this kind of gives you an idea.

Knowing a bit of this, I bought these filter wrenches:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-4568

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LIL-57020

The first filter wrench is a three-finger set, designed to grip and remove difficult filters or filters in tight spaces. I used it and it worked great. I had one hand inside the cavity touching the wrench to the filter, my other hand outside the port, holding a socket wrench and loosening. The three-finger unit beared down on positively-gripped the filter.

I bought the second, more traditional filter wrench, as kind of a backup. You'll notice from the photos it has abrasive gripper-like spots. I did not use this wrench, but probably could have. Using one hand. I'm using this filter as an upgrade to one for other vehicles.

The factory filter was not incredibly tight. It was snug. Some have reported otherwise.

Getting the new filter on is simple. I confirmed the old filter gasket was off, lubed the new and screwed down hand tight, 3/4 of a turn once the gasket met the block. No problems since.

The standard factory and replacement filters are somewhat slim. With other assemblies nearby, the Ford Performance filter, a larger, wider version of the standard factory filter, cannot be used; it's to wide and this might be the case with the Gen 4 as well.

I mentioned a crossmember and wires immediately past the access port. First, I placed a t-shirt over the wire bundle, to absorb any oil that might rain down from the filter. Then, I took a piece of cardboard, which I bent into a slim "V". Finally, I shaped tin foil over the "V" and slid that into the port, to rest just below where the oil filter meets the block.

With the filter initially broken loose so I could then unscrew, I back it off and let the oil drain down the "V". Once it pretty much stopped, I removed the filter and "V".

All that seems kind of dragged out. It's tedious. I didn't spend all day on it. But it wasn't messy. Most importantly, everything involved stayed clean and dry.

Regarding draining the oil itself, the first one is always a PITA. I laid a plastic tarp down and several t-shirts. Oil shoots straight out the back. Some use cardboard deflectors, to route the oil into the receiving pan. But with that out of the way, you can then install the UPR, Femco or other like plug to make future changes easier.

I suspect the Gen 4s will be same as Gen 3s? waiting to read more of any differences with respect to drain plugs or access. There's nothing wrong with the factory Gen 3 drain plug, but given the position of the plug and conditions, it's nice to have something with granular control, something that allows one to adjust the rate at which the oil is draining.

Thanks for the 411, very helpful.

I'm somewhat dismayed by the effort required to replace the filter, almost like you need to put the car on a lift. I was hoping the oil filter would be similar to my wife's Hyundai. It has one of those plastic canisters that you unscrew and swap out the media only, but it sits on top of the engine, so no fuss no muss.

The mustang looks like it will be a PITA to clean up.

 

[Skye]

I'm somewhat dismayed by the effort required to replace the filter, almost like you need to put the car on a lift...The mustang looks like it will be a PITA to clean up.

I cannot see my filter from topside (I tried. LOL). The front splitter lip is 6 " / 15 cm off the ground. But the belly pan flows lower still. Truly underneath the car, there is a 4.5 " / 11.5 cm gap.

I bought and have since used Race Ramps; they work great. These have a 7' slope, so I don't have to worry about scraping anything.

https://www.raceramps.com/ramps/race/p/rr-72-2/

I get plenty of space underneath using these. The ramps only weigh a few pounds and can be easily stowed.

QuickJack. I'd love to have this at home. Maybe in the future.

https://www.quickjack.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv43s0Ym1gQMVhB2tBh1YMQexEAAYASAAEgLEnvD_BwE

The S550 is fairly dense in electronics and cabling. Not a lot of free space. The S650 I'm guessing more so. I agree. My Toyota, over the years I could tell when working on it several items were placed in certain ways to aid maintenance and repairs. The Mustang? Not so much.

 

[ThreePedalPlow]

Anyone found anything that fits on the 2024 5.0 yet? Pretty sure they changed the oil pan this year.

 

[sdsteele2]

Anyone found anything that fits on the 2024 5.0 yet? Pretty sure they changed the oil pan this year.

Just did the first oil change on my PP GT. The oil pan is metal and has a standard threaded drain bolt with an integrated rubber washer.

Also, gone is the little trap door to access the oil filter. It’s a real pain to drop the belly pan when working on jack stands so I skipped that and used PIG mat and a form-a-funnel to take the filter out thru the wheel well.

 

[ThreePedalPlow]

Just did the first oil change on my PP GT. The oil pan is metal and has a standard threaded drain bolt with an integrated rubber washer.

Also, gone is the little trap door to access the oil filter. It’s a real pain to drop the belly pan when working on jack stands so I skipped that and used PIG mat and a form-a-funnel to take the filter out thru the wheel well.

Is the belly pan just some kind of liner that covers everything underneath the car in that area? I have no idea what a PIG mat or a form-a-funnel are.

 

[sdsteele2]

Is the belly pan just some kind of liner that covers everything underneath the car in that area? I have no idea what a PIG mat or a form-a-funnel are.

Yes, the belly pan I’m referring to covers the underside of the engine bay.

PIG mat is just a common brand of oil absorbing mat. It works great for catching oil spills before they become a mess.

PIG Mat

Same thing for form-a-funnel. It’s a flat sheet that you can roll and shape into whatever you need. It’s kinda like aluminum foil but more durable. I used it to make a little chute to catch and drain the oil from the filter housing.

FormAFunnel

I’m sure I ordered both from Amazon.

 

[ThreePedalPlow]

Yes, the belly pan I’m referring to covers the underside of the engine bay.

PIG mat is just a common brand of oil absorbing mat. It works great for catching oil spills before they become a mess.

PIG Mat

Same thing for form-a-funnel. It’s a flat sheet that you can roll and shape into whatever you need. It’s kinda like aluminum foil but more durable. I used it to make a little chute to catch and drain the oil from the filter housing.

FormAFunnel

I’m sure I ordered both from Amazon.

Thanks for explaining! Did you have to remove the wheel or wheel well liner to do it that way? Did you need any special sockets, extensions, swivels or oil filter wrenches to do the job? Sounds like you can drain the pan without removing anything from the underside of the car. I have a lot of tools but wondering if I will need anything special.

 

[Mljh85]

Anyone have recommendations now for metal pans?

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