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Car would not start

2024S650

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I know there had been another thread but it lacked any significant updates.

My vehicle failed to start a couple days ago after being driven for about 10 miles. It started fine that morning. Went into the grocery store for 15 min and the no start upon leaving. The below messages presented on the dash.

Ive read a couple threads where Gateway Modules were replaced and maybe one battery when this occurred. Has anyone else experienced this? After just sitting for about 20 min the car started. Put it on a slow charge and the tender light is green after many hours. Will give this a shot but if it happens again it will be going to the dealer. Car has 2500 miles
S650 Mustang Car would not start IMG_0859
S650 Mustang Car would not start IMG_0860
S650 Mustang Car would not start IMG_0861
S650 Mustang Car would not start IMG_0862
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SAL-E

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Those messages are typical of a bad battery (low voltage). It is more like one gateway module and LOTS of batteries. Replacing the battery is the usual fix, unless the problem was that it simply has not been driven enough to keep it charged.
 

wilkinda65

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Had this happen on Tuesday morning to me, 6200 miles on the odometer. Battery testing at the dealer showed only 355 CCA on a 760 CCA battery. Replaced and good to go. My first indication of trouble was the battery voltage fluctuations during driving was from 14.9 to 12 volts
 


Ford Motor Company

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I know there had been another thread but it lacked any significant updates.

My vehicle failed to start a couple days ago after being driven for about 10 miles. It started fine that morning. Went into the grocery store for 15 min and the no start upon leaving. The below messages presented on the dash.

Ive read a couple threads where Gateway Modules were replaced and maybe one battery when this occurred. Has anyone else experienced this? After just sitting for about 20 min the car started. Put it on a slow charge and the tender light is green after many hours. Will give this a shot but if it happens again it will be going to the dealer. Car has 2500 miles
IMG_0859.jpeg
IMG_0860.jpeg
IMG_0861.jpeg
IMG_0862.jpeg
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Hi there! Would you send us a private message with your VIN and dealership name and location? I’d like to look into this concern on my end.  
 

Rio Lobo

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Sounds like the first thing any of us should do when we get our cars (mine is still simply a couple words on screen and paper, so talking about myself here too) is hook up the battery for a good slow charge. Obviously these cars are very demanding on the electrical system even when parked. So a car that has just been delivered has been sitting long enough to significantly drain the battery. I'd hate to see that the batteries are underrated or just bad quality, but enough time and more cars on the road will give us a clearer picture.
 

Eurasianman

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Had this happen on Tuesday morning to me, 6200 miles on the odometer. Battery testing at the dealer showed only 355 CCA on a 760 CCA battery. Replaced and good to go. My first indication of trouble was the battery voltage fluctuations during driving was from 14.9 to 12 volts
Well this is a bit concerning... I noticed yesterday while driving that it went down to 13V. It even went down to 13V while stopped at a traffic light. I assume it should always be around 15V regardless if driving or stopped, right? Isn't that the point of the alternator (pardon my lack of knowledge on this).
 
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2024S650

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Sounds like the first thing any of us should do when we get our cars (mine is still simply a couple words on screen and paper, so talking about myself here too) is hook up the battery for a good slow charge. Obviously these cars are very demanding on the electrical system even when parked. So a car that has just been delivered has been sitting long enough to significantly drain the battery. I'd hate to see that the batteries are underrated or just bad quality, but enough time and more cars on the road will give us a clearer picture.
My car was purchased Sep 21 and had only been built for just over 2 weeks when I took delivery. Its parked in the garage and locked, on my S550 I would get Fordpass notifications about low battery mode if I did not lock the car. I assume if unlocked it’s trying to communicate with the fob etc.

Honda had a huge issue with Goldwing batteries, maybe Ford has an issue as well.

I will wait and see if the problem presents again, if so I am having it towed. Maybe the cold weather outside id a factor compared to the warm garage but the car started just fine after sitting in the grocery store oarking lot for another 15 min. Thats what concerns me the most. The battery was not being charged in those 15 min and I did not jump start it.
 
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Rio Lobo

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My car was purchased Sep 21 and had only been built for just over 2 weeks when I took delivery. Its parked in the garage and locked, on my S550 I would get Fordpass notifications about low battery mode if I did not lock the car. I assume if unlocked it’s trying to communicate with the fob etc.

I did put the battery on a slow charge and its doing ok for now but it had just been driver long enough for the alternator to induce a good charge and started that am after sitting all night.

Honda had a huge issue with Goldwing batteries, maybe Ford has an issue as well.

I will wait and see if the problem presents again, if so I am having it towed.
Yeah, that's no bueno. I know I'd be a bit frustrated wondering if the car will start. Interesting you mention Honda; my in-laws had the battery in their Pilot replaced (by the dealership) and within a month we weren't even able to jump it out of our driveway. Had it hooked up to a charger/starter plugged into an AC outlet and the starter wouldn't even turn. They had it towed to the dealership and another new battery was the fix.
 

wilkinda65

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Will this is a bit concerning... I noticed yesterday while driving that it went down to 13V. It even went down to 13V while stopped at a traffic light. I assume it should always be around 15V regardless if driving or stopped, right? Isn't that the point of the alternator (pardon my lack of knowledge on this).
The dealer told me that 13.5 to 14 is the norm
 

Eurasianman

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Col F

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Well this is a bit concerning... I noticed yesterday while driving that it went down to 13V. It even went down to 13V while stopped at a traffic light. I assume it should always be around 15V regardless if driving or stopped, right? Isn't that the point of the alternator (pardon my lack of knowledge on this).
The Voltmeter indicates the current output of the alternator/voltage regulator which varies depending on the battery state of charge and the electrical demands on the system. Since a fully charged 12v auto battery is 12.67 v, a fully charged battery will only receive about 13v (float voltage) from the alternator, while a lower state of charge will get an alternator output of around 14(+) volts (charging voltage).

Since all batteries have become somewhat junk in recent years, including the very expensive AGMs, and since almost every car is so computerized and has so many electrical / electronic systems which NEVER shut down, the parasitic drain (aka vampire drain) will deplete even new batteries. I started using "smart battery maintainers" on all of my vehicles about 4 years ago. I use CTEK units (purchased on Amazon). I recently replaced a small "start/stop" battery that finally gave up the ghost at about 4 yrs, instead of the typical (according to other owners) 1-2 years of useful life.
 

Eurasianman

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Hmm... I supposed I was somewhat lucky with my 2017 F-150. I bought it brand new and had it for 6.5 years and never replaced the battery. Granted, about 6 months before trading it in unexpectedly, the techs that serviced my vehicle did note that the voltage was a tad low, but still within the threshold.
 
 




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