🚨The S650 Oil Change is a Nightmare 🚨 💡Here’s How I’d Fix It💡

[hal26]

Just repeating what I read on here......whoever designed this underbody panel clearly never had to do their own maintenance. Now I personally have mine done for me because my time is money, but I understand the need and frustration.

To change the oil, you have to remove what feels like half the underside of the car:

• A boat load of screws and plastic push clips depending on trim
• Deal with awkward panel alignment during reinstall
• Oil inevitably finding its way all over the panel and your arms
• Eventually the underbody panel working loose and coming off on the road (this already happened to me)

And after a few oil changes, those OEM clips and holes are going to get looser and more annoying every single time.

Honestly, I think there’s a huge opportunity here for an aftermarket solution specifically for DIY owners.

Option 1:
A full replacement underbody panel system that is:

• Stronger and more durable than the OEM plastic
• Properly meshes / fits to the secondary rear panel
• Designed for repeated removal/install cycles
• Uses Cleco style fasteners instead of screws and the Christmas tree push type pins

For anyone unfamiliar, Cleco fasteners are used all the time in fabrication and race car work (we use them on Asphalt Super Late Models). With the special Cleco pliers, removal and install is insanely fast and consistent. No stripped screws. No broken clips. No fighting alignment holes after the 5th oil change.

Option 2:
Keep the OEM-style full panel, but integrate a dedicated oil service access door.

• Retains the factory mounting points and outer hardware
• Add a reinforced access panel
• Ase Cleco-style fasteners only for the service door

That would let you do an oil change in minutes instead of removing the entire tray every single time.

Something like this for the fasteners:
https://clecofasteners.info/product...kk-0-1-4-grip-plier-operated-cleco-fasteners/

Am I crazy here, or would other S650 owners actually buy this? I would buy it just so the people changing my could experience the ease of it.

yes !

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[goodlettjr]

I didn't feel it was a big deal to R&R
Heck I did the mustangs oil change, then my 09 Z06 right after which has a drysump and the car has a procedure that need to be done in oil removal and when filling.

We run dry sumps on our cars. Big difference is the access we have to them.

 

[Tigerchevelle]

We run dry sumps on our cars. Big difference is the access we have to them.

The mustang 7th gen Gt that metions removing the plastic undercarriage plate doesn't come with a drysump from the factory though.
Removing that plate is not alot of work.
Getting a z06 up to operating temperature than,getting it up on 4 jack stands level to drain,then adding oil and then getting the car up to temp to check the oil level,is more time consuming than crying about pulling a plastic plate.

 

[Tigerchevelle]

Btw i believe that plate was designed under the car for aerodynamics,ie keeping the moving air from coming up under the car,and pushing up on the hood of the car.
Ford engineers didn't just add it there to make it difficult to change the oil and filter,like I said this was the first time doing an oil change on thus platform and its not alot of time to remove.
If its that much trouble take it somewhere to get it done.

 

[D/\rK•650]

Its not only about the trouble of taking the stupid clips off , its just a bad design, I think there is no issues with putting a little trap door or the like to access the oil filter. My 370z had the under belly pan and I took it off every time and it sucked but there was an aftermarket option actually a few to remedy the long and very difficult to work with plastic plate thing. I just usually took out only few clips as opposed to all of them and bent the plate out of the way. Again nothing wrong with aftermarket options.

 

[goodlettjr]

The mustang 7th gen Gt that metions removing the plastic undercarriage plate doesn't come with a drysump from the factory though.
Removing that plate is not alot of work.
Getting a z06 up to operating temperature than,getting it up on 4 jack stands level to drain,then adding oil and then getting the car up to temp to check the oil level,is more time consuming than crying about pulling a plastic plate.

Sorry, I wasn't clear. On circle track race cars. Had an 09 ZR1 with a similar set up and process to your Z06.

 

[hal26]

no problems since the first oil change. just haven't reinstalled the underbody panel

Did your oil temp change at all...up/down? THX

 

[goodlettjr]

Did your oil temp change at all...up/down? THX

I know you aren't talking to me, but I drove mine for 500 miles without it with some hard pulls. No temp change. It changes the air pressure under the car quite a bit. A lot more hood flutter.

 

[CMcA]

the oil temps the same. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic. and I didn't notice any hood flutter at least thru 120. goodlettjr just back it down a tad and your hood will be fine

 

[Paul's stable]

I've never used those on a body panel in circle track. All of our bodies are fiberglass with plastic nose and bumpers. Only use the Clecos for fitment then rivet it in place. Body panels may make it a race or make it 3 races. You would spend a fortune on Dzus in a season. Plenty of other things to spend it on. But all that aside, the cleco is just part of the idea. Could be something different like Dzus...it was more for the concept.

Clecos are for fabrication, Dutz fasteners are the standard for holding on body panels on race cars. I would not recommend these to hold on the belly pan.

 

[NVERL8]

I change my oil filter through the driver side wheel well with strategically placed aluminum foil.

Wait....what? do you take the wheel off and the fender liner out or can you get to it? Very interested.....

 

[robvas]

For all the babies that don't want to remove the underbody shield...

 

[GhastlyTT]

Wait....what? do you take the wheel off and the fender liner out or can you get to it? Very interested.....

I'm due to change my oil next month. Maybe I'll make a thread. Yes, I put the car on stands to get under it to drain the oil as usual, remove wheel and access the filter from the well. Cover the area above the k-member with rags to support my fashioned aluminum foil oil chute, direct the chute into my drain pan, punch a hole in the filter and rotate it to maximize emptying, then remove once drained. It's tight but it absolutely can be done mess free.

 

[hal26]

I know you aren't talking to me, but I drove mine for 500 miles without it with some hard pulls. No temp change. It changes the air pressure under the car quite a bit. A lot more hood flutter.

Thanks, good to know. I have enough flutter right now. Had to pull over and make sure the hood was latched!

 

[hal26]

For all the babies that don't want to remove the underbody shield...

Still Gotta change the filter and remove - will that bottle hold 10 quarts?

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