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First oil change...what a pain in the ass 😆

ListedGuru

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Did mine today as well, 1100 miles on the clock. I think my car is about 5 LBS lighter with all the little rocks that cover collects.
So the cover that needs to be dropped for an oil change collects rocks too? I get my oil change at the dealership so hopefully they will remove any rocks my cover may have collected, lol.

Are you running full synthetic now? I'm almost at 1100 miles but I'm still debating when I want to have my first oil change done. I would do it myself but honestly I don't have a good setup here at the house unfortunately.
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ZL1_1LE

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Yes, the cover collects rocks and whatever else that can find it's way up there. Motorcraft filter and Mobil 1 5w30 extended performance, since it was on sale at Wally World and meets the Ford spec.
 

JAL

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No big deal to remove the filter without removing any fasteners. I raise the front of the car on an slight downslope. Turn the wheels to the left and reach through the opening forward and inboard from the strut. Unscrew the filter with lots of absorbent material around. That's how I did it on the S550 and it is the same with this generation. No mess, reasonably quick job.
 


Doug Watson

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No big deal to remove the filter without removing any fasteners. I raise the front of the car on an slight downslope. Turn the wheels to the left and reach through the opening forward and inboard from the strut. Unscrew the filter with lots of absorbent material around. That's how I did it on the S550 and it is the same with this generation. No mess, reasonably quick job.
S550 had a flap and the material was plastic but the S650 the material will just soak up all the oil and after time it will be a mess.
 

setter4ever

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Yea, its a royal PITA, but it's all to improve aero, which I believe Ford has done a pretty good job with it. The entire underside is not covered like a full fledged race car, but quite a bit of it is. And, for $78.00, I'll let my dealer do the oil/filter change.

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You're lucky to have the oil changed for $78.00. The dealer changed mine on an Ecoboost for $179.90!
 

Q6543

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Any downsides to just leaving both shields off?

high speed aero I suppose?
 

Zig

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No big deal to remove the filter without removing any fasteners. I raise the front of the car on an slight downslope. Turn the wheels to the left and reach through the opening forward and inboard from the strut. Unscrew the filter with lots of absorbent material around. That's how I did it on the S550 and it is the same with this generation. No mess, reasonably quick job.
Is there enough room to use a drip shield/slide? Pics or it didn’t happen 😉
 

JAL

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Is there enough room to use a drip shield/slide? Pics or it didn’t happen 😉
I'm due for another oil change so I will try to take better pictures this time. I have a funnel that is very soft and pliable so I can stuff it in there and place it around the filter. And through the bottom of the funnel I stuff a long screwdriver to punch a hole in the bottom of the filter to drain it to a container below. I also place absorbent materials in there to catch the drips when I unscrew the filter. See what I mean?
 
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roadpilot

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Did my first oil change today @ 1,600 miles.

I installed the Steeda jacking rails the other day -- sure did make it easy. A few pumps of the jack, put a couple jack stands underneath, then the same thing on the other side. In two minutes, the car was off the ground with plenty of room to get underneath.

I hate to burst anybody's bubble here, but ... removing the panel in order to access the oil filter was ... absolutely no big deal at all.

Then again, I do have a Dewalt 20v MAX XR Cordless ratchet, so popping a 7mm deep well socket on it and backing out the 15 screws took less than 2 minutes. Now that I know exactly where they are, it will only take me about 45 seconds to remove them the next time I change the oil.

Side note: If you don't own any cordless power tools, including an impact gun and an impact ratchet - you're doing it all wrong. ;)

15 screws, two larger Christmas tree push rivets and two other 2-piece push style plastic rivets. that's it. Easy peasy.

If you have the air deflectors installed (standard on DH), 6 of the 15 screws are the ones that hold those on. You can leave the in place, just remove the three vertical screws and slide the panel out from under the deflectors on each side.

I drained 9+ quarts and used exactly 10 quarts to refill it back to within the upper and lower marks on the dipstick. Admittedly, I did not check the oil level from the factory, so it was likely a tad low.

Oil looked great - I'll be sending a sample off to Blackstone Labs.

For the refill, I went with Mobile 1 Full Synthetic 5W-30 Extended Performance and a Mobile 1 M1-212A filter.

This weekend, I plan to install my DIYVan fender liner covers. The duct tape I put on there a month and a half ago is still holding on pretty good!

EDIT: Forgot to include -- when I removed the 15 7mm screws while taking off the access panel, two of them were well over halfway out. If you haven't done your first oil change yet - or if you let someone else do them - you might want to check those.

S650 Mustang First oil change...what a pain in the ass 😆 20240618_181956
S650 Mustang First oil change...what a pain in the ass 😆 20240618_192503
 
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dusman59

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I didn't think removing the panel was going to that big a deal. I plan on using my battery powered driver also. Luckly my son has a drive on lift to make things even easier.
 

Zig

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15 screws, two larger Christmas tree push rivets and two other 2-piece push style plastic rivets. that's it. Easy peasy.
For a filter …. Ugh but guess it’s ok since only needs to be done once a year? Up down on off shield flapper ugh.. frigging wrong plug for that hole. Why not consistency of connection? Why screws, trees, and pins, why not all the same since it’s a service part?
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