Rear Camber

[Mod Mustang Racing]

As mentioned above, one of the biggest problems with using the camber factory arm/slotted subframe is that they are very difficult to make adjustments - it is easy to go go too much or too little and you can spend alot of time making adjustments, also, they can sometimes move in the slot under hard use if you are constantly making adjustments, lastly the rubber bushing in the factory arms allow for deflection which means camber is now changing under load upon corner entry and exit.

An aftermarket arm such as the one we (or many other manufacturers) offer make adjustments far easier and spherical style bearings add minimal NVH while allowing for sharp and predictable handling.

Always here to help if anyone is needing setup advice or help. Also posted a pic of our camber arm for those interested!

MMR

Check out our S650 Race build here: https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/th...obal-time-attack-unlimited-s650-build.163434/

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[tj@steeda]

UPDATE:

Just one guy on an Ecoboost forum, and I do not know him, but he claims he installed these and had the following experience with them coming loose constantly:

I went through all of this a few years ago and have my experiences with this kit. The install is straight forward and the location is a real ***** to get to, using an impact and a swivel from the rear of the car will allow you to get the nylock nut tight. I installed these, red locktite on everything, set it to max positive adjustment to make up for the lowering springs, then took it to my alignment shop. They said everything was in the factory limits, readjusted the toe to match what I had done and everything was great.....for about 3 months. Then one day whilst enjoying the freeway and sliding lanes I feel a unnerving rear end wiggle. After returning home very carefully, I put it up on ramps and stands and sure enough, my passenger side adjustment bolt could be turned with a wrench easily adjusting the camber. I took the nut off, all threads looked good so I put it back on tight and was all good for a few months, then the other side cam loose. Now Im getting pissed, I know they were installed correctly and with red locktite! I re-tightened that one and the other one loosened again! At this point I have had it ( about 6 months ago ) and decided that since factory there is little to no adjustment, thats what I was going to do. I adjusted the camber all the way out and welded the bracked to the sub frame with my Mig welder. Then a good tack on the washer on the nut side to the bracket so the camber cant move and new grade 8 bolts and nuts. I would not buy this kit again and would go with a better setup such as the adjustable rear camber arms. Hopefully you wont have the same issues, also keep in mind that I drive my car hard for around 100 miles each day M-F.​

Source:
https://www.mustangecoboost.net/threads/steeda-rear-camber-adjustment-kit-install.21233/

I understand that one person’s experience can raise concerns, but based on the number of units we’ve sold, what you’re describing is not typical. Once a product leaves our facility, there are many variables during installation and long‑term use that we can’t control. If this issue were common, you’d see widespread feedback across the forums, and we would have already implemented a running change.


If you—or anyone else—have specific questions or want a deeper technical review, I’m happy to connect you directly with our technical team to walk through the details.

You can always reach me at [email protected] if I can provide additional support.

Best,

TJ

 

[tj@steeda]

If you want the ulimate in replacment/adjustment - this is our Rear Camber Arm - a thing of beauty!

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-...7RoN_gGELDyYntyFhL8qk1tirtFTaW_BoCdncQAvD_BwE

 

[Sofa King]

@Mod Mustang Racing
&
@tj@steeda

Do either of your solutions address the slot in the chassis? It would be nice to know that end can't go anywhere.

 

[Mod Mustang Racing]

So the problem with the slot side on the chassis is that after making multiple adjustments that the slot gets worn out from tightening and loosening the bolts. With the MMR design, the chassis bolt is tightened once and never touched again because the adjustments are made on the MMR camber arm itself. We also include a nice, large washer to help grip as much of the subframe as possible. We have never had a customer contact us and say they are having issues with the MMR camber arm moving at the subframe so it is safe to assume we have addressed that issue.

 

[Rocket Man]

Use a floor jack under the rotor to help adjust in small increments

did you really say that? I know you commented about not posting things due to other people's comments but if you ever tried to jack one of my cars under a brake rotor their would be major problems. I'm sure it is done but how advisible is it vs using real jack points? Or did I misunderstand and you mean to just put enough pressure to move the suspension? Do you protect the rotor at all?

 

[fvinazdesert]

did you really say that? I know you commented about not posting things due to other people's comments but if you ever tried to jack one of my cars under a brake rotor their would be major problems. I'm sure it is done but how advisible is it vs using real jack points? Or did I misunderstand and you mean to just put enough pressure to move the suspension? Do you protect the rotor at all?

I appreciate you pointing this out, I should have gave more detail. The car was already lifted on jack stands and I used the floor jack under the rotor to add or remove pressure from the suspension to adjust the camber.

 

[Rocket Man]

Ah Ok that sounds a little better but I would still wince putting much pressure directly on a rotor.

 

[tj@steeda]

@Mod Mustang Racing
&
@tj@steeda

Do either of your solutions address the slot in the chassis? It would be nice to know that end can't go anywhere.

Let me confirm this with our tech team - get their advice.

Best,

TJ

 

[GhastlyTT]

I have Steeda's camber arms in the rear and the best I could get this weekend was -2 on the rack.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I have Steeda's camber arms in the rear and the best I could get this weekend was -2 on the rack.

You say "best," but do you need/want more than that? I guess I assumed that even at -2° you are starting to hamper the ability to apply throttle early coming off the turns in that 500 horsepower beast. Wouldn't that problem just get worse the further you go?

 

[AZ_Ryan]

I have Steeda's camber arms in the rear and the best I could get this weekend was -2 on the rack.

Thats some legit front camber.

 

[GhastlyTT]

You say "best," but do you need/want more than that? I guess I assumed that even at -2° you are starting to hamper the ability to apply throttle early coming off the turns in that 500 horsepower beast. Wouldn't that problem just get worse the further you go?

-2.2 was my goal but -2 feels pretty good. I say best because Steeda claims typical adjustment range is out to -3.5 for these camber arms. I'm set up for autocross right now so my drive out of the turns is never full throttle and i have a whipple so I'm always hampered lol. I just put on some new RE-71RSs and am really looking forward to trying this updated setup at the next event!

 

[GhastlyTT]

Thats some legit front camber.

Strut tower holes widened and camber plates all the way in

 

[Sovereign]

UPDATE:

Just one guy on an Ecoboost forum, and I do not know him, but he claims he installed these and had the following experience with them coming loose constantly:

I went through all of this a few years ago and have my experiences with this kit. The install is straight forward and the location is a real ***** to get to, using an impact and a swivel from the rear of the car will allow you to get the nylock nut tight. I installed these, red locktite on everything, set it to max positive adjustment to make up for the lowering springs, then took it to my alignment shop. They said everything was in the factory limits, readjusted the toe to match what I had done and everything was great.....for about 3 months. Then one day whilst enjoying the freeway and sliding lanes I feel a unnerving rear end wiggle. After returning home very carefully, I put it up on ramps and stands and sure enough, my passenger side adjustment bolt could be turned with a wrench easily adjusting the camber. I took the nut off, all threads looked good so I put it back on tight and was all good for a few months, then the other side cam loose. Now Im getting pissed, I know they were installed correctly and with red locktite! I re-tightened that one and the other one loosened again! At this point I have had it ( about 6 months ago ) and decided that since factory there is little to no adjustment, thats what I was going to do. I adjusted the camber all the way out and welded the bracked to the sub frame with my Mig welder. Then a good tack on the washer on the nut side to the bracket so the camber cant move and new grade 8 bolts and nuts. I would not buy this kit again and would go with a better setup such as the adjustable rear camber arms. Hopefully you wont have the same issues, also keep in mind that I drive my car hard for around 100 miles each day M-F.​

Source:
https://www.mustangecoboost.net/threads/steeda-rear-camber-adjustment-kit-install.21233/

Different platform and aftermarket company, but on my BRZ I did go with SPC rear camber arms that looked like this:

Sure enough, I experienced that same rear end wiggle that poster is talking about. My alignment would be off each time I got it checked. Personally I wouldn’t use something that has adjustment like this.

Spherical bushings will keep their setting but be aware that they can be noisy. Urethane ends are a compromise between rubber and spherical ends.

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