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Rear Camber

Junkyard Dog

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How much adjustment for negative rear camber is available in the S650, and how do you do it?

Do you need to add aftermarket pieces like a rear camber bar to get to go more negative?
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Rear camber on the S550 and S650 is adjustable from the factory despite what half the alignment shops will tell you. How much im not sure, but i dont think its a great amount. It does require an alignment rack and is pretty fiddly. Its definitely not something you do track side like with the front plates.
 

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How much adjustment for negative rear camber is available in the S650, and how do you do it?

Do you need to add aftermarket pieces like a rear camber bar to get to go more negative?
Agreed, it is adjustable right side much easier access then the left, I do not know how much negative, but there is plenty of adjustment to go to zero camber on the rear.
 
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Agreed, it is adjustable right side much easier access then the left, I do not know how much negative, but there is plenty of adjustment to go to zero camber on the rear.
0 is great for the drag strip, but I was asking to see if I could get -2.0° or so . . .
 


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Junkyard Dog

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fvinazdesert, you should definitely be posting here more.

Thank you.
 
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Junkyard Dog

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Out of curiosity, where did you get that image? Is it some sort of shop manual? It makes adjusting the rear camber look absurdly easy.
 

fvinazdesert

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The image is from a Ford Shop Manual I found online. It's what I used to adjust my car.
It looks easy but it's time consuming. It might take some effort to move the suspension out after the nut is loose, once it is, the suspension moves freely.
After each adjustment you have to reinstall the tire, lower the car, drive it around the corner and back then repeat until you get the negative camber you're looking for.
There is a lot of adjusting and this can take a few times to get it right.
You may be able to adjust with the tire on but it you don't have as much room to work with especially on the driver side.
Use a floor jack under the rotor to help adjust in small increments
The driver's side is the tough one to get access to the nut and bolt but if have a little patient it's not too bad.

Check the toe after you make the adjustments. Mine wasn't affected much.
 

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Yes, it is pretty hard to get it set, as the suspension can move as the bolt is being tightened... Saw these from steeda... looks like they would be helpful for that.
 
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Yes, it is pretty hard to get it set, as the suspension can move as the bolt is being tightened... Saw these from steeda... looks like they would be helpful for that.
If I were going to go through installing those, it would probably be better just to get adjustable camber arms and gain the benefit of stiffer bushings and easier adjustability at the same time (unless there is something I am missing).
 
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Junkyard Dog

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... Saw these from steeda... looks like they would be helpful for that.
UPDATE:

Just one guy on an Ecoboost forum, and I do not know him, but he claims he installed these and had the following experience with them coming loose constantly:

I went through all of this a few years ago and have my experiences with this kit. The install is straight forward and the location is a real ***** to get to, using an impact and a swivel from the rear of the car will allow you to get the nylock nut tight. I installed these, red locktite on everything, set it to max positive adjustment to make up for the lowering springs, then took it to my alignment shop. They said everything was in the factory limits, readjusted the toe to match what I had done and everything was great.....for about 3 months. Then one day whilst enjoying the freeway and sliding lanes I feel a unnerving rear end wiggle. After returning home very carefully, I put it up on ramps and stands and sure enough, my passenger side adjustment bolt could be turned with a wrench easily adjusting the camber. I took the nut off, all threads looked good so I put it back on tight and was all good for a few months, then the other side cam loose. Now Im getting pissed, I know they were installed correctly and with red locktite! I re-tightened that one and the other one loosened again! At this point I have had it ( about 6 months ago ) and decided that since factory there is little to no adjustment, thats what I was going to do. I adjusted the camber all the way out and welded the bracked to the sub frame with my Mig welder. Then a good tack on the washer on the nut side to the bracket so the camber cant move and new grade 8 bolts and nuts. I would not buy this kit again and would go with a better setup such as the adjustable rear camber arms. Hopefully you wont have the same issues, also keep in mind that I drive my car hard for around 100 miles each day M-F.​

Source:
https://www.mustangecoboost.net/threads/steeda-rear-camber-adjustment-kit-install.21233/
 

Sofa King

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Those bolts are not easy to get to, pretty much impossible to get a torque wrench on. My alignment guy didn't get them tight enough the first time... I got the same floating rear end feeling when one came loose! Needless to say, the second time around I doublechecked his "torque"... done with a big end wrench as that was all he could get in there
 

fvinazdesert

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fvinazdesert, you should definitely be posting here more.

Thank you.
You welcome,

The negative feedback I sometimes get is why I don't post more. I don't need a thank you but sometimes I try to help people and what I get is "you don't know what You're talking about", "that's stupid" or "prove it".
I only post things I know for a fact because I could have used a lot of good advice when I started working on cars but sometimes it doesn't seem worth it.
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