My Adventures in Upgrading the Subwoofer and Center Speaker

[Junkyard Dog]

I chose to be weird and go with a Celestion full range speaker for my dash. 3.5in, 8ohm, 35w, 287dB sensitivity, frequency range 98Hz-18.5kHz.

87dB, not 287

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[GooberDH]

87dB, not 287

I thought that was odd but it's what was listed on Guitar Center's webpage.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I thought that was odd but it's what was listed on Guitar Center's webpage.

Yeah, sorry, I should have written more, to include that it is the wrong spec listed on some sites (I am sure it is accidental). I doubt 287 is even possible with a speaker that small.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

Google AI result:

• Range Interpretation:
  • Under 84 dB: Poor sensitivity, requires high power.
  • 85–88 dB: Typical or average sensitivity.
  • 89–92 dB: Good to very good efficiency.
  • Above 92 dB: High sensitivity, very efficient.

 

[DarkkMatter]

Higher the Sensitivity the less power is used to achieve good sound.
That's what I'm thinking of doing is taking it into audio shop and just replacing speakers at first to see kind of difference.

If not, then a 4-channel amp and PAC(around $470 I think it was). Wondering what stock Amp wattage is for the non B&O 9-speaker system. So I got an idea of how many watts can get freed up with bypassing the stock amps. Will help me with which 4-channel amp to use.

 

[exm]

Higher the Sensitivity the less power is used to achieve good sound.
That's what I'm thinking of doing is taking it into audio shop and just replacing speakers at first to see kind of difference.

If not, then a 4-channel amp and PAC(around $470 I think it was). Wondering what stock Amp wattage is for the non B&O 9-speaker system. So I got an idea of how many watts can get freed up with bypassing the stock amps. Will help me with which 4-channel amp to use.

The problem with stock is that the crappy center is overpowering the other speakers

 

[Starship Enterprise]

FWIW: Update. The Pioneer sounds better than OEM but lacks punch. Research and my theory is the sub is too high a wattage. The sub is 1300W which I think is way too high for the weak power the stock amp is supplying. My research says a sub with a wattage ceiling much higher than the power going in results in a very weak response.

I originally bought the Pioneer based on many here buying it, and yes, it is a major improvement over OEM, but still is weak and washed out with almost zero punch.

I have just ordered this amp:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GW9RB9N8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

It is only 200W RMS with a peak of 400W. I feel when I install this sub, it will be a better match for the wattage going into it. That should result in a much punchier sound.

When I install it when it comes in, I'll report back here on whether my hunch proves right.

 

[D/\rK•650]

FWIW: Update. The Pioneer sounds better than OEM but lacks punch. Research and my theory is the sub is too high a wattage. The sub is 1300W which I think is way too high for the weak power the stock amp is supplying. My research says a sub with a wattage ceiling much higher than the power going in results in a very weak response.

I originally bought the Pioneer based on many here buying it, and yes, it is a major improvement over OEM, but still is weak and washed out with almost zero punch.

I have just ordered this amp:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GW9RB9N8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

It is only 200W RMS with a peak of 400W. I feel when I install this sub, it will be a better match for the wattage going into it. That should result in a much punchier sound.

When I install it when it comes in, I'll report back here on whether my hunch proves right.

So did you install an amp with this subwoofer? The link directs to a sub with 200/400w. What wattage amp are you using? Im thinking of doing the drop in sub replacement but seems probably not worth trouble without pushing a few more watts through.

 

[Starship Enterprise]

I'm staying with the stock amp. I don't want to upgrade the amp and end up with problems. I just don't know this B&O system well enough to modify it and not screw something up.

My theory is the lower wattage sub will be more sensitive to the power that's there. I spent over an hour trying to find out the actual sub wattage allocation, and while there's no solid number, it's estimated 100-200W is allocated to the sub and no more.

Though in theory they say a speaker can't be too high a wattage rating for the amp, it feels like dropping a pebble in a pond trying to push 100 amps into a 1300W sub.

As of now the Pioneer sub is clearer than OEM, but no thump at all. I figure for $50 it's worth a shot to try a lower wattage sub and see if it makes better use of the limited stock amp power.

The new sub is ordered and I'll find out the hard way if my theory is right and will post results, good or bad...here next week.

Stay tuned....lol.

 

[System]

I'm staying with the stock amp. I don't want to upgrade the amp and end up with problems. I just don't know this B&O system well enough to modify it and not screw something up.

My theory is the lower wattage sub will be more sensitive to the power that's there. I spent over an hour trying to find out the actual sub wattage allocation, and while there's no solid number, it's estimated 100-200W is allocated to the sub and no more.

Though in theory they say a speaker can't be too high a wattage rating for the amp, it feels like dropping a pebble in a pond trying to push 100 amps into a 1300W sub.

As of now the Pioneer sub is clearer than OEM, but no thump at all. I figure for $50 it's worth a shot to try a lower wattage sub and see if it makes better use of the limited stock amp power.

The new sub is ordered and I'll find out the hard way if my theory is right and will post results, good or bad...here next week.

Stay tuned....lol.

Using a line out converter fed by the OE sub input wires to feed an amp is super simple and you won't mess anything up. The most challenging part is running your power wire up to the battery. Modern LOCs even supply the turn on signal for the amp so installation is super simple. LOCs also come with a remote sub volume control so you can fine tune as your playlist changes. You'll be very happy once you take the leap...

 

[exm]

FWIW: Update. The Pioneer sounds better than OEM but lacks punch. Research and my theory is the sub is too high a wattage. The sub is 1300W which I think is way too high for the weak power the stock amp is supplying. My research says a sub with a wattage ceiling much higher than the power going in results in a very weak response.

I originally bought the Pioneer based on many here buying it, and yes, it is a major improvement over OEM, but still is weak and washed out with almost zero punch.

I have just ordered this amp:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GW9RB9N8?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

It is only 200W RMS with a peak of 400W. I feel when I install this sub, it will be a better match for the wattage going into it. That should result in a much punchier sound.

When I install it when it comes in, I'll report back here on whether my hunch proves right.

As I posted in another forum, the problem with the Pioneer is the low sensitivity.

 

[Fruitstang]

@Starship Enterprise
Did you check the sub dimensions vs my cheat sheet kind of picture?

Veeeeeeeery important: find someone who turns of the ESE, otherwise you will run into the same problem once the engine is running.
Engine off - sub might sound great, engine on - lower frequencies are cut off and "reserved" for the engine sound enhancement.

 

[Starship Enterprise]

Your diagram is handy. But I already modified the enclosure once for the Pioneer. When the new sub comes I'll find out the hard way what works and what doesn't. Might even have to drill more mounting holes, who knows, LOL....

I'm going to play my stereo car off/car on, and see if there is an ESE difference. not that I've not done it already, but not specifically to hear a difference in sound. Very intriguing.

As it stands if I fade ALL the sound to the rear Pioneer sub, it may as well not even be there. It's useless. Just a very faint sound with no thump at all. What it DID do over the OEM sub was let the other speakers sound clearer. The door woofers seem to do all the heavy lifting.

 

[Sig Oris]

Your diagram is handy. But I already modified the enclosure once for the Pioneer. When the new sub comes I'll find out the hard way what works and what doesn't. Might even have to drill more mounting holes, who knows, LOL....

I'm going to play my stereo car off/car on, and see if there is an ESE difference. not that I've not done it already, but not specifically to hear a difference in sound. Very intriguing.

As it stands if I fade ALL the sound to the rear Pioneer sub, it may as well not even be there. It's useless. Just a very faint sound with no thump at all. What it DID do over the OEM sub was let the other speakers sound clearer. The door woofers seem to do all the heavy lifting.

I’m still pleased with your two recommendations

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