PP Question

[DarkMatterGrey]

I found some reasonable deals out of state, 2024 model year with PP. Is there any reason why I should say focused on 2025 versus 2024? Was the 2024 model year more problematic being a transition to a new platform?

2024 MSRP was lower especially the ones built in 2023 by thousands. So you may get an even better deal if that’s important to you. Also 2023 built cars won’t have start/stop but will have gas guzzler tax especially if they’re manuals.

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[shubox56]

Hey DarkMatter, I do care about cost, but not if 2024's are less reliable.

 

[DarkMatterGrey]

Hey DarkMatter, I do care about cost, but not if 2024's are less reliable.

Mine is a late 2023 built 2 years ago. I’ve had it more than a year and a half over 11,000 miles. No big problems, only a couple little ones covered by warranty. Gaps were perfect too.

 

[86pagt]

Mine is a 9/23 build ….. no issues.. 14k total 7k with the FP stage 1

 

[shubox56]

Glad to hear about the 24's. I'm a little nervous about buying a 24 that's been sitting in the elements for a year or more. I'm SUPER anal, so will tread carefully.

 

[DarkMatterGrey]

Glad to hear about the 24's. I'm a little nervous about buying a 24 that's been sitting in the elements for a year or more. I'm SUPER anal, so will tread carefully.

I have had problems with (from?) cars sitting on dealer lots.

2007 Chrysler Aspen 5.7 hemi sat on the lot for 10 months. A couple years of ownership had a pinion seal leak. Covered under warranty, but took 2 dealers to get it right. Had that car until January 2024 with only small/typical problems after 120k miles.

2008 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon unlimited also sat on the lot for 10 months. Had a front axle seal leak. Dealer replaced seal, which leaked again after a few months/few thousand miles. Dealer replaced inner axle shaft. Hadn’t leaked again until about 3 years ago, replaced still under lifetime factory warranty with newer 2 piece seals. Dealer did a horrible job with repair so bad that I left a scathing review where they didn’t properly tighten some bolts and used a sledgehammer on other parts for which they were unwilling to take responsibility. Got 3 new Mopars since then (2 jeeps and a dodge), but not from them. Still have that jeep today, but do my own work on it, even parts covered by lifetime powertrain warranty.

I do blame sitting on the lot for that long being the problem as those issues could have occurred from rust due to sitting.

So while problems can arise from sitting around dealer lots, the bigger issue is with dealers’ ability to fix those items. Taking the time to properly torque to the right values, preparing the surfaces, such as pre and post fix cleaning, lubricating where needed, loctiting if required, following basic proper methods vs. getting it out the door as other vehicles are piling up.

I weigh that against the fact that these are relatively cheap mass produced vehicles, and while they are one of our most prized possessions, they’re just a job to the people that assemble or maintain them. So, I have low expectations of mass produced cars, and am anal just not “SUPER anal”.

Keeping my vehicles properly maintained is Zen (and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance) for me. I am also a realist not a collector. Tradeoffs I guess.

 

[shubox56]

You nailed my concern. And since I'm shopping out-of-state, it compounds the potential issue(s). Kinda.

 

[DarkMatterGrey]

If your not totally into a PP at least get Gt prem with the Brembo option…

1) Note that the front heavier 6 pot caliper and rotors can readily be added afterward (since the front hubs are the same) as long as you can clear the size of the caliper with 19” wheel. The rear 4 pot with drift brake and in-cabin console cannot (since the rear hubs are different and there’s harness/electronics involved).

2) the OP expressed the target build to be a street and occasional drag strip car with lighter front wheel setup. Some go the opposite way and get much lighter drag friendly front brake set up.

Bottom line, getting the Brembo pkg or PP for just the rear brake set up, may not be the best option for the OP. Well except they look killer.

 

[DarkMatterGrey]

• A mechanical rear differential that replaces the electronic clutch rear differential that comes standard on non-PP cars.

That is the first I am hearing of this. My understanding is that they're both mechanical, the Torsen being the worm-gear type vs. the standard limited slip, which is indeed clutch/spring based but uses a friction modifying additive to alter the amount of slip (not enough additive results in more locking/chatter, too much additive results in more slip), with no electronics involved in either.

 

[jml]

This is exactly what I thought when I got my PP.
Plus, it lowers the possibility that some one screws up when installing all this stuff in the non-PP (and Ford telling you it’s not their responsibility).
I have steeda progressive, great in the street.

 

[exm]

This is exactly what I thought when I got my PP.
Plus, it lowers the possibility that some one screws up when installing all this stuff in the non-PP (and Ford telling you it’s not their responsibility).
I have steeda progressive, great in the street.

Totally agree! I also ordered the "Steeda Mustang MagneRide Sport Progressive Lowering Springs". Do you have any pictures to share of your car? Just curious! Did you also get the Camber Bolts and Camber [rear] Adjustment Kit?

 

[jml]

No camber bolts. Don’t trust them and after the springs the front camber stayed at -1.3, which for me is perfect.
I did get the rear camber adjustment kit to bring rear camber a bit upwards (I got -2 after lowering, and put it back to -1.6). No problems with it, the car drives great.
The one small problem is that since my car has magneride I can’t put spacers, so the front tire tucks inwards a bit too much. One day I’ll upgrade the wheels but for now it’s ok.

 

[exm]

No camber bolts. Don’t trust them and after the springs the front camber stayed at -1.3, which for me is perfect.
I did get the rear camber adjustment kit to bring rear camber a bit upwards (I got -2 after lowering, and put it back to -1.6). No problems with it, the car drives great.
The one small problem is that since my car has magneride I can’t put spacers, so the front tire tucks inwards a bit too much. One day I’ll upgrade the wheels but for now it’s ok.

That looks fantastic! Do you have any issues with ground clearance on speed bumbs, etc?

 

[jml]

Absolutely no issues. I mean, I pay attention when I go over speed bumps, but I never had any problems. No regrets.

 

[shubox56]

Absolutely no issues. I mean, I pay attention when I go over speed bumps, but I never had any problems. No regrets.

Once a good deal is found, I too, will be looking to lower the car. How much did you lower the front and back?

I have been "watching" a couple cars with PP and MagneRide.

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