Gasoline options and recommendations

[24BlueStang]

So I have a 2024 EcoBoost and I know Ford says the best performance will be with 91 or 93 octane. The question I have is, is there any reason using 87 non ethanol would be a bad idea vs e10 87? Another question is, what fuel stations are recommended? I was getting diesel at Casey’s in the last vehicle I had. All the gas vehicles I’ve ever had I always used non ethanol 87 in them. This is the first vehicle that recommends 91 or 93. Just trying to get all the info and advice from the people who know more than I do

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[roadpilot]

Generally speaking, non-ethanol (aka gas-gas aka rec fuel) is better than E87, as it's less susceptible to water being absorbed into the fuel if it sits. If you're burning through your E87, no worries about that, really. It's really only a worry for engines with rubber hoses and gaskets in the fuel system, as prolonged ethanol fuel use degrades it.

 

[24BlueStang]

Generally speaking, non-ethanol (aka gas-gas aka rec fuel) is better than E87, as it's less susceptible to water being absorbed into the fuel if it sits. If you're burning through your E87, no worries about that, really. It's really only a worry for engines with rubber hoses and gaskets in the fuel system, as prolonged ethanol fuel use degrades it.

It’s my daily and only vehicle so just trying to see what the mpg would be with each one out of curiosity before filling up tomorrow. Murphy USA in town is the cheapest for all gas and Casey’s is the highest but I have a gas station outside of town that sells nothing but non ethanol 87 at a good price. Idk if Murphy offers non ethanol 91 or not

 

[SAL-E]

Personally, I think the use of Top Tier fuels is more important than 87 vs. E87. The car is designed for the ethanol fuels, so that should be of no real concern if driven regularly. The cleaning power of top tier gas will help keep it running more efficiently for longer.
I use premium (91) in mine, and average 37mpg for mostly rural driving (55-65 mph, very few stops). I currently have around 6800 miles on it, so it is broken in by now.

 

[Bikeman315]

If you are OK with the loss of power then 87 is fine but………..unlike the V8 that loss is significant. I always used 91/93 in my 15’ EB. As stated before use a top tier gas and experiment with different brands. There are differences so find the one your car runs best on.

 

[Skye]

https://www.toptiergas.com/gasoline-brands/

I looked for Casey or Murphy as being a Top Tier gasoline. Neither is listed as being one. Top Tier gas is tagged as such for having proper amounts of detergents, to help with the engine's internals. Long-term, it's best to use Top Tier.

Regarding the octane level, with an EcoBoost, I think you should buy as high as you can in your area.

When you have time, google and study the topic of Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI). It's a condition where all the variables align and create a knock condition which can bring about engine damage.

Not trying to scare you or any other turbo or EcoBoost owner. There's nothing wrong with the engine. But to help prevent the condition from ever occurring, use the highest octane you can get at the pump.

 

[Vapor Blue GT]

If you can get non ethanol 87 for the price or close to it and it makes you feel good, use it. As stated above, your car is designed to use E10 blend 87 octane as are all cars of the last 20 plus years. There’s very little ethanol in it and unless it sits for a year without you running it you’ll be fine.

Now, not to high jack the thread but the top tier fuel is a good idea and I use it when I can but it’s not a must. Your oil changes and a use of good oil is more important. However, next time you are at you gas station with the fuel truck delivering, talk to him and see what he says the difference is between that stations top tier 93 octane and the non top tier down the street that he is going to deliver next.

 

[Zig]

However, next time you are at you gas station with the fuel truck delivering, talk to him and see what he says …

Keep driving, not interested in all the tank gunk stir. Two tanks, one high one low, mid is a mix.

if the pump is pumping real slow it’s local filter is full (basically an oil filter sized filter inline on each pump).

top tier is recommended but not required. A tad controversial but short of top tier (company determined pre-mix) an occasional additive can at times provide assistance just depends on the quality of the source.

 

[roadpilot]

However, next time you are at you gas station with the fuel truck delivering, talk to him and see what he says the difference is between that stations top tier 93 octane and the non top tier down the street that he is going to deliver next.

Most of the drivers barely know the differences between any of the product they pull from the rack (that's what you call the location where they fill product from). I used to work for a downstream petroleum distributor. We had our own fleet for MI & OH, and we contracted out in 38 other states.

The base product comes from only a handful of refining companies. The primary difference between one and another is what additives are blended into it at the rack.

While octane is a primary consideration for performance, the quality of the fuel is as important for longevity of your engine. High octane crap fuel vs top tier fuel is an easy choice for me.

Beyond fuel quality, always gas up at stations that are moving large volumes of product. You don't want fuel that sits in the underground tanks, as older tanks do leak and allow contaminants into the fuels. If you can avoid filling up when the tanker is offloading fuel, I would, but it's not truly that much of an issue as long as the tanks are in good shape and, again, they move large volumes of fuel through that station.

Fuel additives are not necessary with modern fuels if you use a good quality fuel, although if you're running a performance engine and want (or need) to run higher octane, that's OK.

 

[Zig]

Think of it this way, if there ain’t no gunk in the tank what are the filters catching?

 

[Vapor Blue GT]

Most of the drivers barely know the differences between any of the product they pull from the rack (that's what you call the location where they fill product from). I used to work for a downstream petroleum distributor. We had our own fleet for MI & OH, and we contracted out in 38 other states.

The base product comes from only a handful of refining companies. The primary difference between one and another is what additives are blended into it at the rack.

While octane is a primary consideration for performance, the quality of the fuel is as important for longevity of your engine. High octane crap fuel vs top tier fuel is an easy choice for me.

Beyond fuel quality, always gas up at stations that are moving large volumes of product. You don't want fuel that sits in the underground tanks, as older tanks do leak and allow contaminants into the fuels. If you can avoid filling up when the tanker is offloading fuel, I would, but it's not truly that much of an issue as long as the tanks are in good shape and, again, they move large volumes of fuel through that station.

Fuel additives are not necessary with modern fuels if you use a good quality fuel, although if you're running a performance engine and want (or need) to run higher octane, that's OK.

That’s my point I was referring too. We are presuming that the fuel at the rack is properly blended with the additives we are expecting. That’s not always the case and not all fuels are the same from state to state. Florida has some of the worst fuel you can buy even from top tier stations. Many of their stations where not high quality fuels after they were tested compared to other parts of the states. Then you run into the issue of how many people in your area are running premium fuel. Do the additives stay mixed or do they separate after a week sitting? I still run a fuel additive just as insurance because I don’t always run top tier.

 

[24BlueStang]

Well I ended up getting 91 e10 from Murphy USA because none of the other stations in town had it except for Casey’s which I thought was kinda weird. Casey’s was around .60 more a gallon so I got it at Murphy. We will see how it does for two or three tanks from there and then try Casey’s for a few tanks then compare.

 

[The Batfan]

2024 eco here as well and I only have Circle K or RaceTrack or a few local places where I live for gas I usually go back and forth between Circle K and Racetrack depending on price I am on my 4th tank now with 780 miles I think on the car.. I did 91 first 2 tanks on the 3rd 89 and now trying 87 ... my issue so far is $hitty gas mileage best I have gotten is 13.9 I am driving under 50 most of the time and just run to town to get food or etc I have made 2 small trips one to a town 15 miles away another to a town 25 miles away and my gas mileage went up to 17 for like a few hours then dropped back down this was on the two 91 tanks... I am thoroughly not happy with the gas mileage I am getting I drive like a granny I dont rev the car I dont accelerate hard at all for the most part.. what kind of mileage are you getting just curious?

 

[roadpilot]

That’s my point I was referring too. We are presuming that the fuel at the rack is properly blended with the additives we are expecting. That’s not always the case and not all fuels are the same from state to state. Florida has some of the worst fuel you can buy even from top tier stations. Many of their stations where not high quality fuels after they were tested compared to other parts of the states. Then you run into the issue of how many people in your area are running premium fuel. Do the additives stay mixed or do they separate after a week sitting? I still run a fuel additive just as insurance because I don’t always run top tier.

Some fuel is blended @ the rack. Some is preblended. We owned a rack in metro Detroit for some years. There's no issue there. No, the additives don't separate. Aftermarket additives are unnecessary junk that separates you from your money.

 

[Vapor Blue GT]

Some fuel is blended @ the rack. Some is preblended. We owned a rack in metro Detroit for some years. There's no issue there. No, the additives don't separate. Aftermarket additives are unnecessary junk that separates you from your money.

Thanks for confirming they don’t separate.

However, I can 100% guarantee some additives do work and work very well. Not all are created equal and there’s probably more that don’t work well. I have seen various engines, before and after, from boat motors, gas and diesels that have seen the benefits of additives over the last 30 years. The key is to use them before you have 100k miles of buildup. They are not a mechanic in a can however that so many think they are. White gas works wonders on carbon buildup and it was a very cheap option for diesel injector carbon buildup. Chem Dip too but you have to be careful using that stuff.

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