Explain the 1,000 mi oil change to me

[Zig]

I worked on helicopters, HH-60's and CV-22's, for over 20 years and guess what.....Not once did we have to change the oil after a break in run, lol! (Turbo shaft engines move a bit faster also) This is a waste of money, IMO, as the manufacture would require it if it was an issue. The metal flakes (called "swarf" by the way) would be extremely negligible in the standard, mass produced engine. Save your money for premium gas ladies and gents!

Car that float are called boats, cars that fly are not copters….

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[JollyPedro]

Car that float are called boats, cars that fly are not copters….

My point is that if its not required on something with much tighter tolerances and way more complex, then its not needed on an ICE.

 

[jimbo67]

Car that float are called boats, cars that fly are not copters….

Your funny!

 

[Illini4]

Follow the manufacturer's maintenance schedule. I've always done that and never had a problem.

 

[Zig]

My point is that if its not required on something with much tighter tolerances and way more complex, then its not needed on an ICE.

Although that may be the issue. But understood, if its ‘really’ needed it’ll be in the manual. As long as you follow the book you should get what they claim. Deviate from the recommendations and results may vary. An initial analysis and exchange of fluids is a means by which the owner and now the person responsible for the technical maintenance and upkeep can use as a baseline to judge continued usage. Being able to tell if you are burning oil or seeping coolant is very helpful.

but yeah follow the book, anything else is peace of mind.

 

[jeffnudi]

I feel the 1,000 mi / 1,600 km point is something some (many?) of us have gravitated to over time. The origins of that milestone come from Ford's statements in the Owners Manual related to the car's overall break-in period.

Should you change at the reference point above? This topic and oil type is something you're going to get a wide variety of feedback on. Above all, read Ford's guidance in the manual; this is your baseline. If you'd like to do better still, as a personal preference, do so.

I changed mine at 1,000 mi / 1,600 km for a few broad reasons:

- From machining and assembly, there's "junk" in the engine and now oil filter

- From the wear of break-in itself, the internals of the engine have shed material

- The mileage is a waypoint in the car's life and wear; it's something of a freshening up

- IMO, the factory fill is not what you get off the shelf, but shelf and break-in additives, both of which are now spent. I have not documented proof of this. Just a belief. See Motorcraft XL-17

- From first light, it will take several oil changes (2 to 3) to stabilize what you ultimately run on. For example, from factory fill to Motorcraft Synthetic, the overall effect will take a few changes. When you change the oil, close to a quart (and other junk), is still in the galleys, maybe a cooler. It'll take a bit of time to work out. So, one change at 1,000 / 1,600, then one or two more later, you see nothing but the oil you're consistently using, and it's working properties

But do you have to? No. Follow the Oil Life Monitor (OLM) and the Owner Manual. There is no requirement you change the oil at the point mentioned. If you'd like to as a step towards goodness, great. If not, follow Ford's plan. Millions of vehicles have done nothing more than follow the manual and they are still going strong.

Ford Dealers will use Motorcraft 5W-30, blend oil, unless the manual specifies something else. This oil is a mix of synthetic and dino. Dealers often give the option of using a Motorcraft synthetic, which is fine. Using either oil and keeping records will maintain the factory warranty.

If you'd like to use aftermarket oil and filter, you can do that to. Use items that meet or exceed Ford's guidance in the manual. Document with a receipt or photo. Update in Ford Pass App. Something. Anything that will confirm later (if needed) you have been changing the oil, when and what you used. Your warranty will be maintained.

Should you use a full synthetic? I like using synthetics over dino or blends for one reason: they are designed as an engine oil. Dino can and does work fine. But in extreme tolerances and conditions, synthetics can work better. Further, synthetics are detergent, good at keeping the insides of the engine clean over the long term.

Again, you'll get a lot of feedback on this. In summary, I changed mine at 1,000 mi / 1,600 km, am using full synthetic, 5W-30 and am now following the OLM and Owner Manual.

This broad topic also leans into the trans and diff; they've been breaking in to. Some change their fluids quite early. That's cool. But IMO, these devices do not see wash from fuel, condensation or encounter the same temperatures and stresses as the engine does. Further, many items these days, many manufacturers, use synthetics or long-life oil from the start. I'll be changing mine early (still don't know at what point), but not way early. As a reference, my truck says I never have to change the Manual Transmission (MT) oil, except under certain conditions. I change it every 30,000 mi / 48,000 km anyway. The Owner Manual is the baseline for when to change and what to use.

Finally, if you'd like to know how things are going, do an oil analysis at that first change (and others if you like). Most of us use Blackstone's service. You can get a sample kit for free and stow it for now. Analysis is like $30-35. Some of us get the test done. It's nice to know. And when/if the car is ever sold, it will give confidence to the buyer things are well.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Can you tell me what page you are finding break in information in the owner's manual. The only thing I can find is related to tires, and that just says to break in the tires for 300 miles without explaining what that means. I sent a text top the Ford "advisor" and the response I got was "you have to break in the tires for 300 miles." I replied stating I was looking for break in information related to the cars mechanicals and the reply from the advisor was something like - Yes, you have to break in the mechanicals. Again, no explanation of what that means.

According to Ford, change the oil when the car tells you it needs changing. Nothing about changing the first oil at 1000 miles.

 

[Zig]

The only thing I can find is related to tires, and that just says to break in the tires for 300 miles without explaining what that means.

Rough example: new tires got no scuff. Smooth rubber plus a little liquid is slick. It’s akin to new tires on a motorcycle, except in this case it’s times four and a tad bit more weight that will need the momentum whoa.

 

[Skye]

Can you tell me what page you are finding break in information in the owner's manual...According to Ford, change the oil when the car tells you it needs changing. Nothing about changing the first oil at 1000 miles.

You are correct on both points:

- In the 2024 Owner's Manual, there is no reference to a mechanical (engine, trans, diff, brake, clutch, etc.) break-in mileage

- There is no statement the oil should be changed at 1,000 mi / 1,600 km

In previous Model Years (MY) and supplements, there is the following paragraph:

"Your vehicle requires a break-in period. For the first 1,000 mi (1,600 km), avoid driving at high speeds, heavy braking, aggressive shifting or using your vehicle to tow. During this time, your vehicle may exhibit some unusual driving characteristics."

Referencing the paragraph above, myself and others have used it as an opportunity to weather in the drivetrain before attempting even more stressful behaviors. In addition, we felt an oil change at the end of that period seemed appropriate.

Returning to the 24 MY, the manual is the baseline. If Owners would like to go above and beyond that, great. If not, that's OK to. Countless individuals follow the manual exclusively and do just fine.

 

[Dave2013M3]

BMW and other German manufacturers require a 1200 mile breaking oil change. However, they also change out the differential fluid as well.

 

[samson]

Thanks for all the replies. I think after reading all this my plan will be to get the oil changed around 1,500, then split the difference to 10K by getting the second at 5,750 and third at 10,000. After that I'll just do every 5,000 miles.

 

[JPGC_S650]

Did my first oil change on this car at 3500 miles which is still a little early for synthetic/ semi-synthetic. Car still sounds good, runs good, and drives....didn't explode or crumble on the highway. In all seriousness, doesn't hurt to change at 1k miles, just a bit early IMHO.

 

[jeffnudi]

Rough example: new tires got no scuff. Smooth rubber plus a little liquid is slick. It’s akin to new tires on a motorcycle, except in this case it’s times four and a tad bit more weight that will need the momentum whoa.

I understand why new tires need to be scrubbed in. The manual gives no clue on how to accomplish that. I don't need any input from the manual on how to achieve that, I was just pointing out the lack of information provided in the manual.

 

[Zig]

I understand why new tires need to be scrubbed in. The manual gives no clue on how to accomplish that. I don't need any input from the manual on how to achieve that, I was just pointing out the lack of information provided in the manual.

Why’d you ask, other than to point out ‘they’ didn’t say why/how?

 

[jeffnudi]

Why’d you ask, other than to point out ‘they’ didn’t say why/how?

Not aware that I asked. As I said, I was just pointing out the lack of information provided in the manual.

 

[ArthurJGuy]

If you drive the car easy for the first 1,000 miles, the 1,000 mile oil change is a waste of time.

You are supposed to beat on the car when it's new so that the rings will seat, in doing so that causes a slight amount of metal to end up in the oil (not a visual or measurable amount).

The purpose of the 1,000 mile oil change is to remove that debris from the oil system to prevent a catastrophic failure down the road.

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