Expected gain when tuning a stock manual GT?

[Alex381]

After a stage 1 tune on my manual GT (Australian delivered) I had 30kW and 59nm gain, measured at the wheels.

That’s apples to oranges though as the Aussie GT is detuned stock and comes in 15-21 horsepower below a base GT in the states.

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[RJW]

It helps get rid of fords boat anchor throttle response and lets you use all of the throttlebodies you paid for.

That's interesting. I have read comments from a few members saying that they like the throttle response in Normal mode, but find the Sport mode throttle to be too sensitive. You think that the stock throttle response, even in Sport Mode, is like a boat anchor?

 

[Junkyard Dog]

The base tune will run E30, correct?

https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/threads/let’s-talk-e30-in-the-stock-5-0.167295/#post-3366164

 

[Junkyard Dog]

So adding about 5 gallons of E85 at the pump.

Has anybody compared a stock tune on 93 to running E30 already?

Maybe the difference would be even less?

 

[tktrain]

I looked at tuning my '25 DHP. When I saw what a supercharger could do, that was all I needed to see. No regrets.

 

[Dave2013M3]

On my 2020 S550 GT with the MT82D4, the 4.09 gears was the best mod I did.

 

[mthx]

I'm wrong about the following:?


+ Headers 20-40 whp*
+ air intake 5 - 15 whp*
+ resonator delete 1 - 3 whp*


* Maybe high-end whp with a 93 tune...

** With a VP Ms109 tune, you could take probably a 20 - 40 whp on top of that. But ms109 is kind of expensive, maybe just for track day.

Need at least :

- colder spark plug
- gap adjustement.

Unsprung weight reduction for better ride quality and better handling with the following :

- carbon driving shaft*
- light forged wheel


* if i remember, years ago, many have problem of vibration after change.

Other mods:
■ Ice Tank (to keep iat low, better on a supercharge or turbo)
■ lighter battery - battery reloc.
■ carbon hoods / fenders
■ rear seat delete

 

[ZXMustang]

The base tune will run E30, correct?

https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/threads/let’s-talk-e30-in-the-stock-5-0.167295/#post-3366164

Absolutely and you'll see about as much spark as the stock tune will give you. I see about 23.5-24 on 93 and on e30 I see up to about 26. Thats negligible but it keeps the car consistent. Thats about as much as you can hope for from the stock tune.

Now tuned, I run anywhere from 27-29 on 93 for stock s650s and they seem to like it when fueling and other parts of the calibration are refined. Good 93 with 28-29 degrees of spark and WOT fueling right is a spicy street tune. For you on track, I wouldnt run that but 26-27 on e30 would be an above average power gain for you with the stock tune giving you as consistent power and performance that your IATs and other temps will allow.

On E85 its more 32+ degrees of spark. So 10 degrees from stock tune to E85 tuned on E85 is a BIG jump. You figure every degree is roughly 5hp give or take.

 

[Cobrakit]

Absolutely and you'll see about as much spark as the stock tune will give you. I see about 23.5-24 on 93 and on e30 I see up to about 26. Thats negligible but it keeps the car consistent. Thats about as much as you can hope for performance that your IATs and other temps will allow.

So is that the total timing or are there other functions that can add timing?

 

[Redrobin9965]

That's interesting. I have read comments from a few members saying that they like the throttle response in Normal mode, but find the Sport mode throttle to be too sensitive. You think that the stock throttle response, even in Sport Mode, is like a boat anchor?

I drive in sport mode only locally and highway. I don't think it's to sensitive if anything more responsive than normal mode. People install the pedal commander and I have one in one of mustang. That makes it really sensitive

 

[ZXMustang]

So is that the total timing or are there other functions that can add timing?

Yes there are several sets of “adders” for everything you can imagine. Temp, octane, load, air fuel, cylinder pressure, pre ignition, tip in, shift retard. The list goes on and on.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I looked at tuning my '25 DHP. When I saw what a supercharger could do, that was all I needed to see. No regrets.

Heat is what kept me from doing that.

After tracking the car, I decided I will want to do more of that, and it is really, really difficult to keep a forced induction car cool enough to go at it for 20-30 minutes at a time. Compare street driving and an occasional pull or quarter mile drag races with cooling down to running hard for half an hour on a track where you come off a turn at 45-50 mph and then run flat out slightly uphill for almost a mile (the last part being downhill and then hard on the brakes for a couple to few hundred yards), every lap, lap after lap in the Georgia summer.

I haven't give up entirely upon it, but there is a lot to consider about cooling and tracking and the stock oil ring gap (if you look at the 9:1 compression forced induction coyote crate short blocks, you will notice the reduced compression is not the only change, as they also have a wider oil ring gap).

I have been reading and reading everything I can find about cooling. It seems like there are lots of great things available for the S550 that just are not available for the S650 (e.g., Ferodo brake pads, Kenny Brown triple pass triple core radiator - or Fluidyne's triple pass radiator). There are lots of things that are available, though, such as Setrab's giant oil cooler, thermostats with a lower temperature and higher flow for the A10 transmission. Of course, with a turbo one can use the boost controller to lower the boost (and the heat produced by the engine) by turning down the boost level. Now I have also learned of the SmoothBoost controller with permits doing the same with a Whipple. So there are a lot of options out there to explore when my warranty runs out.

 

[ZXMustang]

Heat is what kept me from doing that.

After tracking the car, I decided I will want to do more of that, and it is really, really difficult to keep a forced induction car cool enough to go at it for 20-30 minutes at a time. Compare street driving and an occasional pull or quarter mile drag races with cooling down to running hard for half an hour on a track where you come off a turn at 45-50 mph and then run flat out slightly uphill for almost a mile (the last part being downhill and then hard on the brakes for a couple to few hundred yards), every lap, lap after lap in the Georgia summer.

I haven't give up entirely upon it, but there is a lot to consider about cooling and tracking and the stock oil ring gap (if you look at the 9:1 compression forced induction coyote crate short blocks, you will notice the reduced compression is not the only change, as they also have a wider oil ring gap).

I have been reading and reading everything I can find about cooling. It seems like there are lots of great things available for the S550 that just are not available for the S650 (e.g., Ferodo brake pads, Kenny Brown triple pass triple core radiator - or Fluidyne's triple pass radiator). There are lots of things that are available, though, such as Setrab's giant oil cooler, thermostats with a lower temperature and higher flow for the A10 transmission. Of course, with a turbo one can use the boost controller to lower the boost (and the heat produced by the engine) by turning down the boost level. Now I have also learned of the SmoothBoost controller with permits doing the same with a Whipple. So there are a lot of options out there to explore when my warranty runs out.

You're sitting right in the middle of the gap where NA and blower cars live in terms of your use case. You might want to just find a different car honestly. I think unless you are prepared to gut that thing and make it a giant radiator on wheels, then its the wrong car for what you are doing. There are lots of other cars out there that would probably be better that dont struggle with cooling, but will make the power and have the durability you need.

And if you love mustangs, you got the 2020 GT500, the new DH SC and even a later model GT350. Or you can switch to the corvettes or some of the M cars are great on track and make a lot of power. But an NA GT/DH even with the PP is a bit outgunned for those long track sessions. We can manipulate the oil temps in the tune and crank all the cooling to 11, but once you add boost you are right back where you started - as you are well aware I know.

Hard to be in this hobby, in the particular section of it you are in, with an American V8 car. Now that new camaro Z28 coming out....

 

[Junkyard Dog]

You're sitting right in the middle of the gap where NA and blower cars live in terms of your use case. You might want to just find a different car honestly. I think unless you are prepared to gut that thing and make it a giant radiator on wheels, then its the wrong car for what you are doing. There are lots of other cars out there that would probably be better that dont struggle with cooling, but will make the power and have the durability you need.

And if you love mustangs, you got the 2020 GT500, the new DH SC and even a later model GT350. Or you can switch to the corvettes or some of the M cars are great on track and make a lot of power. But an NA GT/DH even with the PP is a bit outgunned for those long track sessions. We can manipulate the oil temps in the tune and crank all the cooling to 11, but once you add boost you are right back where you started - as you are well aware I know.

Hard to be in this hobby, in the particular section of it you are in, with an American V8 car. Now that new camaro Z28 coming out....

LOL, I know, I know . . .

 

[LouG]

That’s apples to oranges though as the Aussie GT is detuned stock and comes in 15-21 horsepower below a base GT in the states.

Try 450 odd against my US spec 486hp GT.

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