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Battery Tender?

Sofa King

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No. In fact, disconnecting the battery from the car will cause problems with the electronics.
When connecting, connect the negative clamp (black) first to the negative terminal of the battery. Then connect the positive (red) clamp to the positive terminal of the battery.
You can actually connect them without removing battery cover... there is a ground stud on the top of the strut tower and a red cover on the fusebox to connect to... see the manual on jump starting connections.
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DCS

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You can actually connect them without removing battery cover... there is a ground stud on the top of the strut tower and a red cover on the fusebox to connect to... see the manual on jump starting connections.
Thanks. I donā€™t have my vehicle yet, so I was being old school.
 


TUnica

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Question, on the 7G Mustang owners manual, I have not found any information on battery charging or on the external points to charge from that are referenced in this thread. Ideally I would like to permanently attach a set of leads that I can plug a tender into. The negative and positive cables (at the terminals) have a coulple of wires that bridge between the two. Obviously they donā€™t connect the two terminals but what are they for? Iā€™ve never seen this before? It looks like I could permanently attach at the negative and positive clamps, just wondering what others have done?

Thank you
 

Zig

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Question, on the 7G Mustang owners manual, I have not found any information on battery charging or on the external points to charge from that are referenced in this thread. Ideally I would like to permanently attach a set of leads that I can plug a tender into. The negative and positive cables (at the terminals) have a coulple of wires that bridge between the two. Obviously they donā€™t connect the two terminals but what are they for? Iā€™ve never seen this before? It looks like I could permanently attach at the negative and positive clamps, just wondering what others have done?

Thank you
The crossover is for the bms
 

Skye

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A few pictures as to what I've done. You should be able to find like reference points on the S650.

I installed the hot lead to the under hood fuse panel, the one lead which ultimately goes to the battery. The ground, to the chassis, where the strut tower is. Both leads were then paired to the plug from the tender purchased.

The tender came with two separate cables. The one with the weatherized plug, I cut it in half and mated it to the leads I'd attached to the car. I then ran it out to the front.

I put my plug outside, near the headlight. Some run their's through the grill. But the grill is a tight fit. And there is the heat from the radiator. If I like, I can pop the hood and tuck the plug into the bay.

Resting, the plug is external. The plug has a rubber cap and is protected by the elements. When I want to be on the tender, I simply hock up.

The advantage of having he tender outside is 1) I can walk by and do a visual check and 2) the tender is not exposed to the elements or under hood conditions.

https://accessories.ford.com/ford-performance-5-0-smart-battery-charger-maintainer

S650 Mustang Battery Tender? battery tender 003


S650 Mustang Battery Tender? battery tender 005


S650 Mustang Battery Tender? battery tender 006


S650 Mustang Battery Tender? battery tender 010


S650 Mustang Battery Tender? battery tender 009


S650 Mustang Battery Tender? battery tender 011
 
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Zig

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A few pictures as to what I've done. You should be able to find like reference points on the S650.

I installed the hot lead to the under hood fuse panel. The ground, to the chassis, where the strut tower is. Both leads were then paired to the plug from the tender purchased.

The tender came with two separate cables. The one with the weatherized plug, I cut it in half and mated it to the leads I'd attached to the car. I then ran it out to the front.

Resting, the plug is external. When I want to be on the tender, I simply hock up.

The advantage of having he tender outside is 1) I can walk by and do a visual check and 2) the tender is not exposed to the elements or under hood conditions.

https://accessories.ford.com/ford-performance-5-0-smart-battery-charger-maintainer

battery tender 003.jpg


battery tender 005.jpg


battery tender 006.jpg


battery tender 010.jpg


battery tender 009.jpg


battery tender 011.jpg
Can it route so it comes out below, almost like a block heater plug
 

TUnica

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A few pictures as to what I've done. You should be able to find like reference points on the S650.

I installed the hot lead to the under hood fuse panel. The ground, to the chassis, where the strut tower is. Both leads were then paired to the plug from the tender purchased.

The tender came with two separate cables. The one with the weatherized plug, I cut it in half and mated it to the leads I'd attached to the car. I then ran it out to the front.

I put my plug outside, near the headlight. Some run their's through the grill. But the grill is a tight fit. And there is the heat from the radiator. If I like, I can pop the hood and tuck the plug into the bay.

Resting, the plug is external. The plug has a rubber cap and is protected by the elements. When I want to be on the tender, I simply hock up.

The advantage of having he tender outside is 1) I can walk by and do a visual check and 2) the tender is not exposed to the elements or under hood conditions.

https://accessories.ford.com/ford-performance-5-0-smart-battery-charger-maintainer

battery tender 003.jpg


battery tender 005.jpg


battery tender 006.jpg


battery tender 010.jpg


battery tender 009.jpg


battery tender 011.jpg
Thank you, very helpful!
 

Skye

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Can it route so it comes out below, almost like a block heater plug
The plug and leads could be put anywhere convenient for the owner. I stayed away from the grill area; it was a tight fit and source of heat. I also stayed away from the cowl area; this section sees a lot of water from rain and car washes.
 

Skye

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Sorry, what is BMS?
Battery Management System. One function the under hood Body Control Module (BCM) runs is BMS. This program is aware of when the battery was initially installed and tracks how often the car is driven, charging periods, rates of charge, etc. It's like an Oil Life Monitor (OLM), for a battery and the car's charging system.

So the BMS can continue to monitor things correctly, for the tender I used, Ford recommended the ground (-) was attached to the chassis and not the battery. The positive (+) can go directly to the battery.

Some owners with tenders directly attach to the battery and never have an issue. Others, "weird" things happen. I attached mine as Ford said and have never had a problem.

When the car's battery is replaced, the BMS will need to be reset. This can be done through a series of screen inputs or at the dealer/shop.

You might already be aware, but if not: for anyone working on these systems, disconnect the negative (-) lead from the battery before attempting work, to protect you and the car.

Edit: Later recalling the steps I took, I disconnected both (+) and (-) sides of the battery before starting work. In a battery, the (-) terminal is the source of electrons. The (+), the sink. As I would be working on both sides of the car's charging system, and, suspecting there was at least one charged (see capacitor) asset in-between, I removed both cables, the (-) first. At completion, I reconnected the (+) first, then the negative (-).

https://van.physics.illinois.edu/ask/listing/583#:~:text=A:,flow from negative to positive.

When you do attach the cable/s, things will remain silent, for about 20 seconds. Afterwards, any number of clicks, gurgles and sounds will occur, as various bits in the car become charged (see capacitors and relays).
 
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jboogie1289

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samson

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No. In fact, disconnecting the battery from the car will cause problems with the electronics.
When connecting, connect the negative clamp (black) first to the negative terminal of the battery. Then connect the positive (red) clamp to the positive terminal of the battery.
I was under the impression you first connect the positive to the terminal, then the negative to a ground like on the strut tower, then plug in the charger? Just want to make sure I'm doing this right?
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