2025 GT engine oil temp runs hot

[S650sunshine]

I'm baffled, doesn't the engine wear down substantially quicker at those temps? How Ford is ok with making a car like this is confusing. I don't even have any intentions of ever taking it to the track either.

Ford: Let's make a street car with capabilities to go to the track (all of the apps in the car including track mode) but the car can only be driven hard for 15 min.

Yes it’s all about profit. Ford don’t really care, everything is revolves around money. That’s why they have upgrade options to get more money from us. It’s as simple as that.

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[135Hoser]

Here I am getting worried about my car getting up to 114c / 239 f after a half dozen 0-120 mph pulls.

 

[Cucurú]

I'm baffled, doesn't the engine wear down substantially quicker at those temps? How Ford is ok with making a car like this is confusing. I don't even have any intentions of ever taking it to the track either.

Ford: Let's make a street car with capabilities to go to the track (all of the apps in the car including track mode) but the car can only be driven hard for 15 min.

It's built in with Ford to overheat. Got an Eddie Bauer and two Crown Vics in the backyard with the same problem. But the Eddie Bauer has bent con rods.

 

[135Hoser]

Yes it’s all about profit. Ford don’t really care, everything is revolves around money. That’s why they have upgrade options to get more money from us. It’s as simple as that.

Just wanna throw this out there, being able to beat on your base tier v8 "affordable" mustang for 10-15 minutes is pretty good all things considered.

The Mercedes SL55, which started at $120k USD in 2005, you'd be lucky to get 3 pulls out of it before the engine was pulling timing due to high IATs because the cooling system became overloaded.

Hell, the c7 z06 from 2014-2017 would go into limp mode after a couple laps on the track because the blower got way too hot from GM cheaping out on parts. They eventually addressed it in the refresh, and helped some existing owners out with a retrofit, but that wasn't without a whole lot of complaints from a lot of owners, on a car thats advertised very heavily as being a track oriented car/trim.

Also, OP can upgrade to the PP oil cooler if they want. https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/th...-my-non-performance-pack-s650-mustang.162107/ likely without voiding warranty.

 

[Topic]

Just wanna throw this out there, being able to beat on your base tier v8 "affordable" mustang for 10-15 minutes is pretty good all things considered.

The Mercedes SL55, which started at $120k USD in 2005, you'd be lucky to get 3 pulls out of it before the engine was pulling timing due to high IATs because the cooling system became overloaded.

Hell, the c7 z06 from 2014-2017 would go into limp mode after a couple laps on the track because the blower got way too hot from GM cheaping out on parts. They eventually addressed it in the refresh, and helped some existing owners out with a retrofit, but that wasn't without a whole lot of complaints from a lot of owners, on a car thats advertised very heavily as being a track oriented car/trim.

Also, OP can upgrade to the PP oil cooler if they want. https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/th...-my-non-performance-pack-s650-mustang.162107/ likely without voiding warranty.

Good to know that this seems like a normal issue with street cars even if advertised for track.

 

[S650sunshine]

Just wanna throw this out there, being able to beat on your base tier v8 "affordable" mustang for 10-15 minutes is pretty good all things considered.

The Mercedes SL55, which started at $120k USD in 2005, you'd be lucky to get 3 pulls out of it before the engine was pulling timing due to high IATs because the cooling system became overloaded.

Hell, the c7 z06 from 2014-2017 would go into limp mode after a couple laps on the track because the blower got way too hot from GM cheaping out on parts. They eventually addressed it in the refresh, and helped some existing owners out with a retrofit, but that wasn't without a whole lot of complaints from a lot of owners, on a car thats advertised very heavily as being a track oriented car/trim.

Also, OP can upgrade to the PP oil cooler if they want. https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/th...-my-non-performance-pack-s650-mustang.162107/ likely without voiding warranty.

Yeah for real, 10mins a long time yo. My 370 would’ve overheated by then.

 

[roket]

unfortunately, this is a pretty standard story for non-performance pack vehicles. engine or transmission gets too hot because of the lack of auxiliary coolers. the thing is that Ford, like someone else mentioned, did not design the base vehicles for performance driving. sure, a WOT pull here and there, but nothing huge. they figured that the people who do the high performance driving will get the performance pack

you can add the oil cooler, but a new issue arises. the Mustang, and most modern Fords, do not have an oil temp sensor. the PCM uses a bunch of info from a lot of sensors to estimate (and pretty accurately from what i've heard) the oil temp, and among this info is whether or not the auxiliary oil cooler is in place.

i think i remember seeing in the FORScan codes for the PCM that there is a field for the oil cooler, but i have heard nothing on whether or not it actually adjusts the calculations. worst case scenario, you might have to replace your PCM or its programming with a performance pack vehicle of equal spec

 

[Germansheperd]

After about 10 min of hard pulls on the highway (manual trans), my engine oil temp goes up to 273, and then I'd back down because i know at 280 it will go into limp mode. I took it to the dealership and they told me they will change the oil to Mobile (i'm assuming full synthetic) at next oil change.

Is this an issue? They didn't mention anything except when they test drove the car and kept it around 4500 RPM it rose to about 240F.

Is anyone else experiencing this?

PP and DH fix all these issues.

 

[MAT1955]

@Topic ...... First, if you planned to "pull" a lot you should have put FULL synthetic in your engine. Full synthetic will have a better VI (viscosity improvement) package that will build long chain polymers faster and in a more robust state than even a good semi-synthetic - which is likely what came from the factory fill. Ford full synthetic is great for most conditions. You probably want Mobil 1 FULL synthetic as I bet you are running your car pretty hard. Second, if you are "pulling" it hard enough to trigger limp mode you are pulling way too hard/too often for a "non-performance" optioned GT - that kind of driving should be done with the PP package. I have pulled my 2024 GT a few times and never come near limp mode. All is not lost, if you want to drive your car like that install an auxiliary engine oil cooler and you will be fine unless you are beating the $hit out of your car.

 

[Topic]

@Topic ...... First, if you planned to "pull" a lot you should have put FULL synthetic in your engine. Full synthetic will have a better VI (viscosity improvement) package that will build long chain polymers faster and in a more robust state than even a good semi-synthetic - which is likely what came from the factory fill. Ford full synthetic is great for most conditions. You probably want Mobil 1 FULL synthetic as I bet you are running your car pretty hard. Second, if you are "pulling" it hard enough to trigger limp mode you are pulling way too hard/too often for a "non-performance" optioned GT - that kind of driving should be done with the PP package. I have pulled my 2024 GT a few times and never come near limp mode. All is not lost, if you want to drive your car like that install an auxiliary engine oil cooler and you will be fine unless you are beating the $hit out of your car.

I got to 273, never 280. Someone else did on this forum and said it goes into limp mode after that. I’ll be putting in full synthetic at the next oil change

 

[MAT1955]

@Topic ..... the Full Synthetic should help a lot. A super lubricant with great VI packages that shed heat. If doesn't help then there are plenty of aux. cooler options that aren't too expensive. Good luck!

 

[AZ_Ryan]

Some thoughts here.

1. Is it even confirmed that limp mode will occure at 280? As far as I know that was only reported by one guy. I've not heard that happening to anyone else.

2. What kind of hard pulls do you have to do to heat the oil like that in a short period? Seems to me that letting the car cool after a couple runs would be prudent no matter what your driving.

3. The auxiliary oil cooler on the PP and DH cars are designed for track use, not multiple WOT pulls in quick succession. I'd be very curious to see how big a difference it would make doing the same thing on a PP car.

4. Maybe don't beat the shit out of you car and you won't have to worry about these things.

 

[dusman59]

Running at the drag strip one doesn't do muliple runs in a row. You let the car cool down before the next run. Doing muliple pulls one after another will cause most cars to get hot. If one wants to do this get your wallet out and start spending.

 

[krisk]

I understand frustration at a car getting near limp mode temperatures, but I think you have to step back and look at it from a manufacturer/average buyer perspective. We have all sorts of threads with people complaining about the price of the S650, so pricing is obviously a concern for many. It would seem the manufacturer is giving us options and it is up to us to determine what we are willing to pay for. Should Ford add all the extra coolers to the base model car and do away with the PP or DH? If so, everyone would have to pay the higher cost of the PP or DH, even if they have no use for the coolers because they are just cruising. Options on these cars are not only to make it pretty or more comfortable, there are many that are truly performance focused. Why should everyone have to pay for a bunch of performance parts when 80% of the buyers (my guess at the %) are never going to do anything more than one or two hard pulls consecutively?

I bought a PP, and the axle overheated from track use. I added a cooler, and no problems since. I can run a 30 minute track session in 95 degree heat and nothing overheats. If I had bought a DH, it would have already had the cooler. My choice, and I accept the limitations and as a result had to add a cooler.

I’ve learned if you intend to use a car in a different way than the vast majority of buyers will be using it, you better do some research to see if it is capable of handling your intended use. Ford gives you the options to make the car be able to handle multiple pulls, it’s just up to the buyer to option it for that or add it after the fact. That seems a better option than forcing everyone to pay for a bunch of equipment from which most will never benefit.

 

[Gregs24]

@Topic ...... First, if you planned to "pull" a lot you should have put FULL synthetic in your engine. Full synthetic will have a better VI (viscosity improvement) package that will build long chain polymers faster and in a more robust state than even a good semi-synthetic - which is likely what came from the factory fill. Ford full synthetic is great for most conditions. You probably want Mobil 1 FULL synthetic as I bet you are running your car pretty hard. Second, if you are "pulling" it hard enough to trigger limp mode you are pulling way too hard/too often for a "non-performance" optioned GT - that kind of driving should be done with the PP package. I have pulled my 2024 GT a few times and never come near limp mode. All is not lost, if you want to drive your car like that install an auxiliary engine oil cooler and you will be fine unless you are beating the $hit out of your car.

Agree

Base GT is cheaper because it lacks the PP related goodies needed for harder use. If you save money and buy a base GT and then moan it gets hot then there is not much logic going on!

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