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Brisvegas
Active Member
Pretty spoton here , when its new get it warm use WOT or near to it from about 3000 - 6000 rpm and that going to bed those rings in nicely a lot quicker than you think , they run in engines on a dyno using low or no additive oil and can bed an engine in in 6 - 10 dyno pulls , ready to put in a car , warm up and redine straight away basically race ready . Hi end shops will use a crankcace pressure metric as to ascertain when rings are bedded . i think even at 500 miles / 1000 km using these methods you can start driving it like you stole it just dont ride the rev limiter . The guys who pussy foot their engines for 1000 miles or more are often doing more harm than good . As soon as they put the best of the best oil with super low friction additives the rings will no longer continue to bed in any meangful way so drive it hard at least a bit before that first oil change into killer spec oil ......
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Skye
Well-Known Member
The Owner Manual specifies the following for Eco and 5.0 engines: WSS-M2C961-A1, 5W-30
The Ford requirement translates to API SP and ILSAC GF-6A.
Checking Motorcaft, Valvoline, Castrol and O'Reilly's oil brands, I could not find a dino oil that was API SP, GF-6A and 5W-30.
Most conventional oils are 10W or straight weight, GF-5 or even 4.
7Gs are filled with blend.
If someone has a stock car, 2015-ish or older, traditional, conventional oil could make sense. I'm not aware of any modern manufacturer producing cars to use dino. Temperature, compression, emissions and Low-Speed Pre-Ignition requirements are some of the reasons why. Virtually all makers are requiring blend, if not synthetic from the start.
https://www.oilspecifications.org/ilsac.php
https://www.api.org/products-and-se...ies-and-classifications/latest-oil-categories
https://www.api.org/products-and-se...categories-and-classifications/oil-categories
https://www.exxonmobil.com/en/basestocks/faq-basics
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