Any more very little evidence. Internal engine components do not wear anywhere close to older stuff.
At the time (last season), yes, they would not remove the pan bolt. From the van, they unreel a snorkel and hose, the snorkel then placed down the dipstick tube, to the bottom of the pan. The vacuum system would then be turned on to remove the oil.
Yes. In Ford engines, primarily copper and silicon.
No worries buddy..
Thanks - all good info.At the time (last season), yes, they would not remove the pan bolt. From the van, they unreel a snorkel and hose, the snorkel then placed down the dipstick tube, to the bottom of the pan. The vacuum system would then be turned on to remove the oil.
While they would go underneath, the focus is only on changing the filter.
The concept is to help reduce field spill accidents and to make things more efficient.
I can appreciate the concern. One of the benefits of a gravity drain is that flow of oil is helping to drag out anything with it. For reference, attached is a picture of my magnetic drain plug. I changed Skye's oil this month. I've cycled the factory oil, plus 20 quarts of my own, through the engine, lines and cooler. Still seeing some specs of matter on the plug. Much less than the first change. That's not a good thing or a bad thing. It's just a thing. Oil analysis and other checks have been confirming everything is fine.
Back to the vacuum removal...my initial thought is it's OK once in a while, "once in a while" being defined by that owner. Not sure I'd want to consistently do it that way. IDK, I simply prefer the flow of oil from the pan.
I'm sure Ford has standardized it vans and the system as a whole. It's worth asking about. The one experience I did have, the person taking the appointment from their office was cool. The tech that arrived was a fellow enthusiast; he'd understand.
And I think that ^ leads to my primary concern with the field dispatch or Dealer experience: we don't know the person we'll be working with until we meet them.
Yes. In Ford engines, primarily copper and silicon.
The copper is received through a shedding process known as passivation. You've noticed before how copper takes on a patina over time; to any of the copper components or alloys, they're doing the same, in the engine, cooler and lines.
As to the silicon, that's from sealers, gaskets, hoses, etc. Silicon-related items are curing and weathering in. Junk materials from the build are circulating.
In an oil analysis thread I enclosed earlier, I do a run-down of what I witnessed, using oil analysis as a reference.
In-general, internal wearing was initially high, quite so, but expected; this faded over time, with contaminants later falling to well-below others. It was an overall sign the break-in occurred and was complete.
The oil, what was the factory fill, was weak. Lower-than-expected viscosity. Low flash point. For the first amount of oil passing through the engine, combined with people starting the car, driving it 20 feet / 7m off the truck, then letting it idle probably forever, normal. With additional oil changes, properties later improved to a unremarkable 5W-30. Blackstone advised this is normal.
There's a flushing process going on, something that takes a few oil changes to complete. You can let the oil drain all night, but there's still close to a quart/liter of used oil in the engine, with additional amounts in any lines or coolers.
As to waiting until later to change the oil, this gets back to the other comments and what anyone is comfortable with. Will it fundamentally harm the engine waiting until a later mileage point? Millions of other Ford owners would say no.
Changing early builds confidence one gets a lot of the crud out of the engine sooner, while improving the quality and profile of the oil itself. It doesn't hurt going early. Over the life of the vehicle, this and other little accumulations of goodness, I'd like to think have an more positive effect. Better mileage, HP, longevity, etc.
Like the other threads and comments, mine are one take. There are as many opinions on the matter as there are people. This goes back to the Owners Manual, specifications and maintenance schedule; that's what's required. If you'd like to go above and beyond, you won't be hurting anything and maybe improving several areas.
3000 miles is really only necessary on daily driven cars that go a short distance, imo. That constant cold starting and not getting the engine oil hot enough to burn off the condensation is awful for the engine.
Are you sure you used LL and not DX?
No, well spotted. It was Mobil 1, Ford spec. I've been using Castrol for so long I wrote without thinking
