First Oil Change at Dealer - Sloppy Job

[Mr Lahey]

I got underneath to check it out. Drain plug was torqued properly and everything else looked ok. Guess it could've been worse.

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[DarkMatterGrey]

he says he jacks the car up on the pinch welds.

As long as they have a pinch weld protector so the paint and/or sheet metal don’t get damaged. I use power pad.

 

[awpe]

I have '22 m1. Decided to change oil myself, picked dealer's invoice from last year oil change, used same oil code as in the invoice. How much I was suprised when I received that castrol magnatec 0w-30 with "Diesel" on front side Later investigation put me to info in europe dealers buy one big tank of that oil and use it just everywhere. I was scared to put some low viscosity 0w-30 (9.5 at 100C) "universal" oil as from time to time I drive hard, so I used some mobil esp 5w-30 (11.9 at 100C) which I have in large qty for my tuned turbo-diesel suv. So far so good but right after change engine noise has gone, no ticking at all regardless of rpm accel/decel.

 

[LouG]

@Starship Enterprise ..... 100% correct. Decades ago, my family built a set super expensive HP marine racing engines for a client as they started to get into marine. We wanted to sell him our automatic oil removal oil system. We told him , we will remove the oil pan drain plugs, install a cross drilled elbows (cross drilled because the elbow would protrude into the inside of the oil pan and the cross drill will allow 99% of the oil to get out) run SS hoses up to twin taps in the engine compartment which were attached to 12V pumps. You could drain both engines in 15 minutes and R&R the remote oil filters in another 10 minutes, then haul away the used oil for recycling. He balked and said he would use a dip stick tube siphon and had a great one. We said fine. He came back a month later. A friend of his had removed a drain plug as he thought it was leaking. About a pint and a half of oil ran into his bilge. Dip stick vacuum removal kits are for $hit birds that don't know squat about engines. BTW when he came back for the kits we charged him triple as we then had to do the job with his engines installed and truthfully because he was a cheap a-hole. The coyote engines are as close to racing engines as 99% of the public will ever get - yet I read post after post from dumba$$es trying to use crap oil and filters, extend their oil changes and cheap-out on service. I think there should be an IQ test that any potential GT or DH owners must pass before they purchase. NOW I feel better.

There should be an IQ test for many things these days.

 

[Westphal]

Tests of 0 weight oils show they do not protect nearly as well as 5 weight in high temperature internal conditions. I tried 0W-30 Full synthetic ONE time in my 2024 GT for winter storage as I start it every three or four weeks and run it. The engine "noise" is considerably more pronounced with 0 weight than 5 weight. That did it for me. O weight is part of the "environmental" decisions of locales trying to green everything up even if it is harmful to the operation of the vehicle.

The 0 weight is for cold oil temperature, while the 30 weight is for hot oil temperature, so there shouldn't be much of a difference (if any) once the engine has warmed up. It makes sense why you had more engine noise on cold start-up with the 0W as it is thinner than the 5W.

For the modern GTO's, a lot of owners switch to 0W-40 European formula instead of the recommended 5W-30 for the high-temperature protection as well as better formula oil. I have 192k miles on my GTO on the original bottom end, only replacing the heads/intake to upgrade to LS3 heads/intake.

 

[MAT1955]

@Westphal .... if I were going to upgrade from a from a 5W-30 to a 40 weight I'd go 5W-40 not 0W-40.

 

[Cz_Ziemniak]

Guusje, leuk om ook een Nederlander te zien hier.

They only put 0w30 here in Europe because of emissions. Not because of the cold. They do this even in Spain and other warmer climates. They use the cold climate as an excuse. But our winters are not even that cold compared to many winters in some cold states in the USA.

So I stick with the 5W30 which handles cold climate just fine. I read some articles that 0W30 isn't that good for the car. But they get slightly better gas mileage. I don't care about driving 10km less lol.

At operating temp, 0W30 will be the same viscosity as 5W30, so it wouldn't make any difference for EPA tests and such.

You sure you're not thinking of 0W20? Thats typically the spec used for efficiency and higher mileage.

 

[MAT1955]

@Cz_Ziemniak ..... respectfully I have seen tests to the contrary. There is very weird behavior associated in the Full synthetic oil family pertaining to weights. When you use a 0 weight as your minimum viscosity it reduces the final weight of the oil. A 0W-40 might start at close to 0 but will not likely hit 40 and sometimes not even that close. The long chain polymers that build to protect in high heat do not seem to like a 0 weight at the other end of their range. Unless you are using your Mustang at 20 below (and why would you) or it is running twin turbos (that would be fun) I would never use a 0 weight IMO, unless it was specifically required as part of a significant and specialized engine enhancement, otherwise I would avoid it.

 

[Cz_Ziemniak]

@Cz_Ziemniak ..... respectfully I have seen tests to the contrary. There is very weird behavior associated in the Full synthetic oil family pertaining to weights. When you use a 0 weight as your minimum viscosity it reduces the final weight of the oil. A 0W-40 might start at close to 0 but will not likely hit 40 and sometimes not even that close. The long chain polymers that build to protect in high heat do not seem to like a 0 weight at the other end of their range. Unless you are using your Mustang at 20 below (and why would you) or it is running twin turbos (that would be fun) I would never use a 0 weight IMO, unless it was specifically required as part of a significant and specialized engine enhancement, otherwise I would avoid it.

If you could link me to these tests I'd like to see 'em. I suppose it would make sense, but I can't imagine its *that* much of a difference.

I do agree that it doesn't make much sense to use a 0w unless at very low temps, but that is a real situation for a lot of people. I regularly drive my cars at 30 below during snowboarding season. Starting my spit in the winter with 20w50 was a fucking slog, once or twice I wondered if I might crack the block from the pressure, hahah. Probably should've switched to 15w40 or something. Live and learn.

 

[DarkMatterGrey]

The 0 weight is for cold oil temperature, while the 30 weight is for hot oil temperature, so there shouldn't be much of a difference (if any) once the engine has warmed up. It makes sense why you had more engine noise on cold start-up with the 0W as it is thinner than the 5W.

Also note that the 0W and 5W are different but related measurements than the -30 and -40.

It’s centipoise vs. centistoke.

 

[Frogdog1]

Just had my second oil change at 5K miles at my dealer and tire rotation. With my oil and filter, total cost was $60 not counting Amazon bought PUP and Ford filter. I could not have possibly been treated better by everyone there. They let me, and anybody that wants to watch, at the work bay, while they work on my car.

I'm not about to get under my car like a salamander for an oil change that costs me $35 for labor. The tech knew what he was doing and was a cool dude. Couldn't have asked for better which is extremely rare.

Oh, on the way home, 38 miles away, I remembered I forgot to pay them. They said, "just pay us next time you're in". I was stunned and I will mail them a check anyway.

 

[MAT1955]

@Cz_Ziemniak ...... uncle was VP (chemical engineer) of a major oil company. Grandfather and family designed and built marine and auto race engines as a hobby. Had a complete shop with CNC routers, decking beds and dynos. Grandfather owned a heavy machine rental/leasing business. Family get togethers with guys in the shop discussing torque curves, oils, filters, cams and cranks. O weight oils (uncle tested about 20 in the companies lab) NEVER reached the higher weight. Most 5W - 10W or race specific, think Kendal, did achieve their higher weight specifications. Using 0 weight in a family hauler at -30 is fine. Putting a 0 weight in a high performance, unless highly "turboed" or specifically designed to run on 0 weight is IMO a bad idea because when it needs lubrication at its most critical time - high heat or flash over the weight will not be there.

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