Startup after sitting LONG / Oil pressure

[franktank]

What is everyone's driven warmed up idle oil pressure?

Depends how hot the oil is. If it’s like low 200s it’s 22-24psi if it’s high 200s and I’ve been driving it hard I usually see it hit low as 18psi.

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[GeekGT5.0]

Depends how hot the oil is. If it’s like low 200s it’s 22-24psi if it’s high 200s and I’ve been driving it hard I usually see it hit low as 18psi.

Yeah, I seem to be at 19-21 in the (200-230 degree oil temp range)
Like I don't know how to feel about that. Just seems low to me

 

[franktank]

Yeah, I seem to be at 19-21 in the (200-230 degree oil temp range)
Like I don't know how to feel about that. Just seems low to me

I felt the same way the first time I saw it but I think it’s normal. Everything is working right and oil level is correct and another poster said they saw theirs get to 14psi once.

 

[LouG]

What is everyone's driven warmed up idle oil pressure?

Here's something weird, after my service a week ago, oil pressure is now higher at highway speeds. About 1 bar = 14.5 psi on average.
So about 60 - 75psi.
I had Mobil 1 5w/30 in, the dealer put in Castrol 5w/30.
I can only assume Castrol has a higher CsT rating.
PS. I just checked, Mobil has a very slightly higher centistoke rating at 40C and 100C than Castrol. So it's not thicker oil causing higher pressure

 

[Cz_Ziemniak]

For what its worth, worn bearings don't typically kill motors unless you've been doing stupid stuff.

9 times out of 10, a worn motor needs a rebuild or overhaul because of piston rings, loss of compression, etc.

I cannot remember the last time I heard a car knocking or needing new bearings that was not directly linked to loss of pressure at high rpm, over revving, etc etc. This excludes obvious things like BMW V8's and V10's that had known bearing clearance issues, etc. I am talking about a majority of engines built today.

I still pre-oil my oil filters when doing a fluid change, but I doubt its even that necessary, more of a feel good thing.

Your motor is experiencing wear far more during the warm up period than the one or two seconds of building oil pressure under initial first crank. Cranking the motor to build pressure is not going to help offset any measurable amount of wear compared to that 5-10 minutes of the fluid building temp and various metals expanding before final temp is achieved.

Now, if this was an older engine, I totally get it. Older motors had completely different clearances and engineering practices in mind. My Spitfire likely would've benefit from some morning cranks to build pressure. But a modern 5.0, I doubt it. The Coyote is just about the best thing Ford builds. Everything else may fall apart, but these motors are solid.

If you want to truly keep wear down on your engine, keep your change intervals around 5000 miles (depending on your situation ofc), don't lug your motor at low rpms, and don't use any silly oil additives in a bottle.
Otherwise, you're overthinking it which will lead you to the long long rabbit hole that is tribology, and before you know it you're on page 18 of some random BITOG thread with more questions than you started with. Its a fascinating rabbit hole, but its not worth going down.

 

[GeekGT5.0]

Here's something weird, after my service a week ago, oil pressure is now higher at highway speeds. About 1 bar = 14.5 psi on average.
So about 60 - 75psi.
I had Mobil 1 5w/30 in, the dealer put in Castrol 5w/30.
I can only assume Castrol has a higher CsT rating.
PS. I just checked, Mobil has a very slightly higher centistoke rating at 40C and 100C than Castrol. So it's not thicker oil causing higher pressure

Crazy, the dealer here uses motorcraft syn oil, warmed up, about 19-20psi idle, everything feels normal with any rpm.

But I also have the random tick and boy is it annoying.

 

[franktank]

Crazy, the dealer here uses motorcraft syn oil, warmed up, about 19-20psi idle, everything feels normal with any rpm.

But I also have the random tick and boy is it annoying.

The coyote tick always appears after an oil change and slowly goes away as the oil gets more used and when you’re ready to change oil again you’ll notice the tick is basically silent. Then it comes back once new oil is introduced. Harmless though

 

[GeekGT5.0]

For what its worth, worn bearings don't typically kill motors unless you've been doing stupid stuff.

9 times out of 10, a worn motor needs a rebuild or overhaul because of piston rings, loss of compression, etc.

I cannot remember the last time I heard a car knocking or needing new bearings that was not directly linked to loss of pressure at high rpm, over revving, etc etc. This excludes obvious things like BMW V8's and V10's that had known bearing clearance issues, etc. I am talking about a majority of engines built today.

I still pre-oil my oil filters when doing a fluid change, but I doubt its even that necessary, more of a feel good thing.

Your motor is experiencing wear far more during the warm up period than the one or two seconds of building oil pressure under initial first crank. Cranking the motor to build pressure is not going to help offset any measurable amount of wear compared to that 5-10 minutes of the fluid building temp and various metals expanding before final temp is achieved.

Now, if this was an older engine, I totally get it. Older motors had completely different clearances and engineering practices in mind. My Spitfire likely would've benefit from some morning cranks to build pressure. But a modern 5.0, I doubt it. The Coyote is just about the best thing Ford builds. Everything else may fall apart, but these motors are solid.

If you want to truly keep wear down on your engine, keep your change intervals around 5000 miles (depending on your situation ofc), don't lug your motor at low rpms, and don't use any silly oil additives in a bottle.
Otherwise, you're overthinking it which will lead you to the long long rabbit hole that is tribology, and before you know it you're on page 18 of some random BITOG thread with more questions than you started with. Its a fascinating rabbit hole, but its not worth going down.

Agreed, I'm a 3000mile oil change, sometimes shorter 2000 miles, depending on how much i drag strip run it, or how hard i'm hitting the twisties.

The oil geek did a great video on oil additives, all they do is dilute the oil, and he tested most of them, with oil analysts and none of them were better than just the oil. His line is, if you need an additive you have the wrong oil.



It's worth a watch, because when you see the science behind it, oil additives are 99.9% snake oil.

And you are 100% correct on "don't lug the engine", literally the worst thing you can do besides cold starts.

 

[Cz_Ziemniak]

The coyote tick always appears after an oil change and slowly goes away as the oil gets more used and when you’re ready to change oil again you’ll notice the tick is basically silent. Then it comes back once new oil is introduced. Harmless though

I've yet to experience it on my car. Granted, its a gen 1 coyote, but so far so good. Only thing I do is use 5w-30 instead of recommended 5W-20.

I've heard it linked to a multitude of things. Timing chain, cavitation, cylinder bore to piston clearance. At this point, I just accept they we'll never have a 100% definite answer, as its almost certainly multiple different things.

 

[franktank]

I've yet to experience it on my car. Granted, its a gen 1 coyote, but so far so good.

I've heard it linked to a multitude of things. Timing chain, cavitation, cylinder bore to piston clearance. At this point, I just accept they we'll never have a 100% definite answer, as its almost certainly multiple different things.

I’ve heard techs talk about how it has to do with oil pressure at idle. It comes from the oil pan area.

 

[GeekGT5.0]

The coyote tick always appears after an oil change and slowly goes away as the oil gets more used and when you’re ready to change oil again you’ll notice the tick is basically silent. Then it comes back once new oil is introduced. Harmless though

Perhaps it's because i don't wait that long, I do changes at 3000, or shorter if ive been running it hard, maybe 4000 if i were to do a GT style road trip or something. So I have never noticed the tick going away.

All i know is, I didn't have it before the first oil change, and now it does. lol. and it's so annoying and i wish Ford would just come out and say what it is, they obviously know since they are adding something for it not to tick until the first oil change. I so wish I did an oil analysis on the factory oil, because we'd be able to figure it out but catching someone before they do their first oil change is stupid hard.

And by you saying "as it gets used, the tick goes away", that's literally saying as the oil gains fuel dilution, carbon particles and loses viscosity from heat (cylinder, ring heat) the tick goes away?

 

[franktank]

Perhaps it's because i don't wait that long, I do changes at 3000, or shorter if ive been running it hard, maybe 4000 if i were to do a GT style road trip or something. So I have never noticed the tick going away.

All i know is, I didn't have it before the first oil change, and now it does. lol. and it's so annoying and i wish Ford would just come out and say what it is, they obviously know since they are adding something for it not to tick until the first oil change. I so wish I did an oil analysis on the factory oil, because we'd be able to figure it out but catching someone before they do their first oil change is stupid hard.

And by you saying "as it gets used, the tick goes away", that's literally saying as the oil gains fuel dilution, carbon particles and loses viscosity from heat (cylinder, ring heat) the tick goes away?

Not sure why it happens but that was my experience and there’s this ford tech on YouTube who’s says the same thing beardedfordtech I believe his name is

 

[GeekGT5.0]

I've yet to experience it on my car. Granted, its a gen 1 coyote, but so far so good. Only thing I do is use 5w-30 instead of recommended 5W-20.

I've heard it linked to a multitude of things. Timing chain, cavitation, cylinder bore to piston clearance. At this point, I just accept they we'll never have a 100% definite answer, as its almost certainly multiple different things.

Our gen1 coyote didn't do it either...

 

[AZ_Ryan]

Crazy, the dealer here uses motorcraft syn oil, warmed up, about 19-20psi idle, everything feels normal with any rpm.

But I also have the random tick and boy is it annoying.

That idle pressure is totally normal. Don't over think it.

Coyote tick is also normal. Been that way since 2011.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

Our gen1 coyote didn't do it either...

It wasn't really prevalent until gen 3.

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