Startup after sitting LONG / Oil pressure

[robvas]

It says you should anytime it sits awhile.

Where does "it" say this, anyway?

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[DT-GT]

I start mine normally — each and every time. I think it will still outlast me!

 

[Snakebyte]

It will just turn over without firing , which allows oil pressure to build up in all your internals. That way when it starts , your bearings are all well coated.

Just hold the pedal to the floor , then after it turns over awhile , let off the gas. It will immediately start up after that.

Just a good way to help extend the life of motor bearings, from harsh cold/dry starts.

Thanks for sharing. I was initially shocked at the recommendation, but after reading more documentation, the recommendation is across Ford engines having a PCM. But...I must have the accelerator at OVER 80% throttle to disable the fuel injectors.
Anyway, while I've never had a situation needing to do this, it is good to know in case I'm in the hospital for a prolonged period of time.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

It's in some years manuals, and it's flor clearing a flooded engine, not building oil pressure

We had this discussion either here or on 6G and there's some goober that does it when he hasn't driven the car for a few days...

Sounds about right.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

How often does your 2024 Flood ?

I find it interesting you only see it this way , and call people "goobers" who have read differently.

It absolutely distributes oil when turning over. Now is it necessary ? Does it make a difference on engine wear ?
I can definitely listen to that debate , and form a opinion. Calling names and disregarding other information is not extremely helpful.

You would fall into the "what huh" ?
category. You don't agree with doing it , and do not think it does anything. Noted, Thanks.

Its pretty clear it doesn't do what you think it does. Getting offended and disregarding other information is not helpful either.

 

[POHLHAMMER]

Its pretty clear it doesn't do what you think it does. Getting offended and disregarding other information is not helpful either.

What makes it clear ? I am not offended in the least. I expect opinions , so far I have not been swayed.

There may be someone who explains why it doesn't push oil , or why it is actually worse to do. Everything I read says preoiling a engine is beneficial to its longevity. Does it make a big difference on our Coyotes? I doubt it , but who cares. If it does anything I am still going to do it.

Now I never said to do this all the time. Ours sits for weeks-months at a time , so it may apply more to us than most guys. As a DD , No Never.

I am still open to a better explanation. I guess push back is to be expected.

 

[robvas]

Except that you don't know that it actually does push oil through the engine.

You hear someone say 'oh I do this flood mode thing to get oil going before I start it...', but is it even true?

You said 'it says', but you still haven't said what it is/was. Owners manual? Ford service instructions? Dealership? Internet post? Youtube video?

In the old days people would put a drill on an old distributor that was cut down, and spin the engine that way. You can't do that now, plus oil pumps aren't what they once were. And even when you turn the engine over with the starter you're supposed to remove all the spark plugs first.

Just trying to stop the spread of mis-information.

All someone has to do is take a valve cover off their car, and turn the key until oil starts coming out of the heads. Post a video of it online. That ends this discussion. Cars will be sitting this winter so someone has the time.

 

[135Hoser]

Here's what I know

The oil pump is driven by a gear. This gear is driven by a sprocket on the crank,. The crankshaft will turn when you engage the starter under ideal conditions.

If the pump is spinning, it's going to be moving oil from the pan into the engine.

With a modern high performance full synthetic engine oil, a coating will last for a period of time. If you're starting the car after 6 months+ of storage, absolutely do flood clear to help get oil pressure up a little bit to minimize metal on metal contact with load. Ever hear an engine on first start after an oil change?

You don't need to take the valve covers off to see if you've got oil flowing. jesus christ. Get a scan tool and watch the oil pressure sensor.

Even if doing a flood clear start for 10-15 seconds, it's not going to hurt a single thing and if the only benefit is making you feel like your motor will last longer, then what's the issue.

Dunning-Kruger up in here.

 

[robvas]

The oil pressure sensor is right after the oil pump.

If you have a garden hose, you have pressure right after the faucet but that doesn't mean you have water coming out of the hose.

Oil pressure is driven by RPM. 5,000rpm is higher than idle. Starter turns the engine at what 200rpm?

Also....we're turning the engine over (with way less oil pressure) before we turn the engine over? Why?

You're not even taking the plugs out like you're supposed to.

 

[robvas]

Also, have you ever watched those engine tear down videos where the engine is broken, they've been sitting in a junkyard for a year or two...when they take the engines apart the bearings all still have oil on them...

 

[135Hoser]

The oil pressure sensor is right after the oil pump.

If you have a garden hose, you have pressure right after the faucet but that doesn't mean you have water coming out of the hose.

Oil pressure is driven by RPM. 5,000rpm is higher than idle. Starter turns the engine at what 200rpm?

Also....we're turning the engine over (with way less oil pressure) before we turn the engine over? Why?

You're not even taking the plugs out like you're supposed to.

You know what builds pressure in a garden hose? stuff (LIKE OIL!) flowing through it. The oiling system on a new mustang (ideally) is a closed loop. If you *have* pressure, oil is flowing like its designed to.

The forces placed on bearings at 5000 rpm, or 800 rpm, when combustion events are happening is much different than the engine operating as a simple air pump with the starter spinning at (lets say) 200 rpm.

Do you think the oil pump moves 0 oil at 200 rpm, but at 800 rpm it flows just enough to lubricate the engine sufficiently?

We're turning the engine over without combustion events before starting it after its sat for a long time on the premise that not everything may be fully lubricated. We're getting some oil into places to reduce a minuscule amount of wear.

Why do you think there's less oil pressure with the ECU commanding the injectors not to fire, than during a normal start up.

If we're "doing it like we're supposed to" then we'd be letting the engine idle for 15 minutes every 2 weeks when the vehicle is in storage.

• Start the engine every 15 days for a minimum of 15 minutes.Run at fast idle with the climate controls set to defrost until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

Also lol your retort is citing a junkyard motor (that's from a junk yard) and seeing oily stuff on metal parts, and saying everythings good. If those are all the precautions you want to take, fine. OP isn't going to damage anything building oil pressure on a cold start after prolonged periods of storage.

 

[robvas]

Do you think the oil evaporates off of the engines internals after two weeks? Or during an oil change?

What do you think you're accomplishing by putting oil where there is already oil?

 

[robvas]

Run the engine "dry", with the starter, at 2-300rpm for 15 seconds (how long are "the primers" turning the key, and how many times do they do it?)

or just turn the key and start the car, run the engine "dry" for 1 second at 200-300 (starting speed) and then for the one second until you see oil pressure after the engine starts at 1,000rpm?

 

[135Hoser]

Do you think the oil evaporates off of the engines internals after two weeks? Or during an oil change?

What do you think you're accomplishing by putting oil where there is already oil?

holy fuck. We've already covered this. Are you incapable of reading or just unwilling to

goodnight.

 

[MAT1955]

Nope. Never did this with any of the built car or marine engines we did. In "the day" doing this would result in raw gas into your cylinders and oil dilution. Even right now "these days" too much can go wrong. Anyway, if you use FULL synthetic and your engine sits for six months there will still be a protective film on everything - everything. BTW you pre-prime your oil filter by filling it as much as you can before you start to remove your belly pan, drain your oil pan and pull your old oil filter. This will allow oil to permeate the new oil filter. Then , just before you spin the new oil filter on refill it as much as you can to prevent a spill at installation. This will prevent oil shock to the filter the system and also give a quick shot of oil to internal parts. For the really OCD use 0 - 35 if you are storing it longer. We did this with 250K marine racing engines right up to Douglass Skater jet engined go fasts. No need for fancy footwork, if you'll pardon the wordplay. keep it simple and sensible. As Roger Penske once said "Don't over think this unless you have really deep pockets."

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