S650 Aftermarket Sound System

[Fruitstang]

Yes, question asked confusingly maybe:
I would connect a wire from the upper doorspeaker to what you call a resistor (which should be a capacitor if used for high pass filter).
Then both will get the signal from the amp.
Only question is where the tweeter capacitor is located, is it inside the pillar panel?

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[98jfuentes]

Yes, question asked confusingly maybe:
I would connect a wire from the upper doorspeaker to what you call a resistor (which should be a capacitor if used for high pass filter).
Then both will get the signal from the amp.
Only question is where the tweeter capacitor is located, is it inside the pillar panel?

It is mounted/ glued on the backside of the tweeter.
As for removing the pillars, just pry them gently. I never broken them on any mustang I’ve done.

 

[Fruitstang]

Great news, thanks a lot!

 

[Decible]

Has anyone ever figured out if a higher output alternator is possible? I know back on the s550’s there was an issue with the smart charging system that no one had cracked. Is that still an issue?

 

[98jfuentes]

Has anyone ever figured out if a higher output alternator is possible? I know back on the s550’s there was an issue with the smart charging system that no one had cracked. Is that still an issue?

No idea, but I could imagine that the voltage regulator wouldn’t like a higher output. If you’re running below 2500 W, then you should be fine.

 

[Fruitstang]

Plus maybe due to the auto start/stop system the alternator might have more power (?).

User manual points out battery is "enhanced" for that purpose on page 165.

 

[Fruitstang]

@98jfuentes
Sorry to bother you again, but do you happen to have the color coding for the 20-pin connector cables to which the amp speaker cables will be connected?
The AmpPro manual starting on page 3 only includes Bronco, F-150s and the Mach E and suggests to figure out via test tone and polarity tests.
For sure a pain in the ass procedure.

 

[98jfuentes]

@98jfuentes
Sorry to bother you again, but do you happen to have the color coding for the 20-pin connector cables to which the amp speaker cables will be connected?
The AmpPro manual starting on page 3 only includes Bronco, F-150s and the Mach E and suggests to figure out via test tone and polarity tests.
For sure a pain in the ass procedure.

I do but the colors on the AMP pro don’t match specifically. You should have ran 6 wires from the center console and pillars to the back and only be looking for 12 wires to tap into for the door and deck speakers. They’re usually a color and the color w the black stripe. Go set of wire by wire with a 9V battery and tap the leads to positive/ negative. Have someone listen to which speaker pops. That’s how you can identify them if I’m not mistaken, they were green, purple, orange, and yellow and light blue.
For the subwoofer, you should be running a thicker wire directly from the amp to the sub.

 

[Fruitstang]

The plan for upgrade stage 1 is keeping all speakers and see what the DSP can do with them, especially voices I don't like.
Focus is on separate Subwoofer control and individual crossover frequencies for the door "subs" to avoid any rattling (doors will be silenced anyway though).

Wires will be kept and connected in the rear via the 20 pin connector of the PAC.
Tweeters in the pillars will get new wires connected to the door mids directly (both are 8 Ohms, so inparallel 4 Ohms as required for the amp) because I only have 6 channels in total including sub.
Center will not be used, DSP will create the perfect stereo stage with timing correction.

Therefore I would only need to know which colors of the 20 pin harness lead to front doors and rears.
It would be sufficient to have the original Ford wiring diagram, the one can see which Ford color connects to which color on the PAC.

 

[98jfuentes]

The plan for upgrade stage 1 is keeping all speakers and see what the DSP can do with them, especially voices I don't like.
Focus is on separate Subwoofer control and individual crossover frequencies for the door "subs" to avoid any rattling (doors will be silenced anyway though).

Wires will be kept and connected in the rear via the 20 pin connector of the PAC.
Tweeters in the pillars will get new wires connected to the door mids directly (both are 8 Ohms, so inparallel 4 Ohms as required for the amp) because I only have 6 channels in total including sub.
Center will not be used, DSP will create the perfect stereo stage with timing correction.

Therefore I would only need to know which colors of the 20 pin harness lead to front doors and rears.
It would be sufficient to have the original Ford wiring diagram, the one can see which Ford color connects to which color on the PAC.

 

[Fruitstang]

You're the man!

 

[Drewmandoo]

For those wondering with the AMP Pro kit, the center dash harness does have extra connectors, but the 2 main ones are the L/R tweeters. Easy enough to pull the trim out and run a couple of speaker wires to the rear like what I have some pictures of.

I did end up changing my amp layout to this:

I have the Amp pro module by where the factory amp was located. without the front tweeters being ran, it was a simple task of bypassing the B&O amp to use my own. I run the tweeters + Mid off 1 channel for now and it sounds much MUCH better. Crossover settings have no issue.

 

[Fruitstang]

Hey did you guys all connect the positive amp power cable directly to the battery like the OP did?
I remember from the Gen 6 that this is a bad idea because the battery management is bypassed and doesn't realize why the battery acts the way it does when listening to music.
Gen 6 has a dedicated connector in a separate box for auxiliary devices consuming power.

 

[Drewmandoo]

Hey did you guys all connect the positive amp power cable directly to the battery like the OP did?
I remember from the Gen 6 that this is a bad idea because the battery management is bypassed and doesn't realize why the battery acts the way it does when listening to music.
Gen 6 has a dedicated connector in a separate box for auxiliary devices consuming power.

My main power to the amps are directly connected to the battery. No issues so far, been 6 months with a Sub amp connected before I got the AMP Pro and DSP amp. no issues since as well.

 

[Dachuckster]

I just uploaded a video of me upgrading my subwoofer in my new S650 with Skar Audio VS-10 D2 shallow mount 2 ohm subwoofer. In the stock subwoofer location. The bass Sounds amazing. I will be upgrading the rest of the speakers throughout the cabin.

Since the screws dont line up, did you just use self tapping screws? and at the end of your video, the trim piece is not sitting flush on the box. is that because of the self tapping screws and it not being able to sit back down properly?

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