Break in period?

[Stonehauler]

And that’s out of a 2024? Mine for sure does not say that

The ONLINE version has that. I did not see it in the PDF version.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...A&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web

https://www.ford.com/support/vehicle/mustang/2024/owner-manuals/

click the HTML version, look for the "Driving hints" section in the bottom 1/3 or so of the list.

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[BrianJ77]

I think a break in period is just assurance that you won't have any issues. It's 1,000 miles, and even though it took me 6 months to get there on my Mustang (not a daily driver) I was glad to treat the car gently during that time. I did have pulls up through 5,6,7k RPM during break in, but never under full throttle. Varying speed is a good idea, also. If you don't break it in that's your call. You probably won't ever have a single issue, but I sleep better knowing I did break mine in.

 

[decidave8]

The ONLINE version has that. I did not see it in the PDF version.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...A&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web

https://www.ford.com/support/vehicle/mustang/2024/owner-manuals/

click the HTML version, look for the "Driving hints" section in the bottom 1/3 or so of the list.

Thanks I dunno why they left it out of the pdf but appreciate it

 

[Aegean]

Do we still need an oil change after the break in period at 1000 miles? Or this is an urban legend of the 80s?

 

[robvas]

Do we still need an oil change after the break in period at 1000 miles? Or this is an urban legend of the 80s?

Can't hurt to do one at 500 or 1,000

 

[Neggytive]

The piston ring material and or coating on the rings has made breaking the rings in a thing of the past.

Roller cams and overhead cams don't require the lifters to be broken in either.

I do like to get a few heat cycles into the materials and let the oil circulate, I don't abuse my cars but I do put 1000 miles on them and get fresh oil and a new filter on them before I engage in any spirited driving.

Now that I am at 2000 miles and no gremlins have popped up I am letting the engine and drive line get a bit more power put to them.

 

[roadpilot]

I think a break in period is just assurance that you won't have any issues.

Except it doesn't assure any such thing.

 

[Dxm]

Well, there's the "First 1000 miles oil change" thing. But for me I noticed that the clutch pedal was way too slow to come up initially, but after almost a year it finally snaps back up the way I like. So there's that.

 

[BrianJ77]

Except it doesn't assure any such thing.

I should've explained...it helps avert issues due to improper break in i.e. rings and valves seating properly during that wear in period. That's what I meant. At the end of the day it's not my car. Anyone can do whatever they want. I felt better with a designated break in period, but it's for the owner to decide. My engine probably doesn't run any better or worse than a car that wasn't broke in with a designated schedule. Will it last longer? Who knows? Lots of variables.

I feel like we went through all of this a year ago on a similar thread.

 

[Old School1]

Picking mine up tomorrow from my dealer who is 90 miles away.
So initial 90 coming back home will be conservative and changing the RPM.
Monday thru Wednesday 200 miles East towards Detroit and back so looking for 600 to 700 miles in my first week and passing the dealer on the way home if any issues surface. Most likely sit over the next few months(snow) with a few exceptions but oil change at 1k miles or so. Around during breakin era so will take it easy, hard to break habits!

 

[LoneRanger57]

I'm not breaking mine in per say but I'm not beating the crap out of it either.
I'm driving it in commute mode on streets/freeways and getting on it now and again for short periods.

 

[Fender5803]

I did NOT break mine in.

I was told by many Ford mechanics that the engines are already broken-in at the factory. When they build your V8 Coyote engine, they stress-test it and they run it at high RPMs at the factory for several minutes. (This is concerning the engine and not other vehicle parts)

Do they put fresh oil in after the stress test ?

 

[Skye]

Regarding what occurs after engine assembly, it's my understanding that, while they physically spin the engine to confirm crank, valve and cam movement, it's not on a dyno. They do not actually fire the engine up and run it. To do so would involve fluids, fuel, time, labor, etc. From these "spin" tests, they can confirm from the effort made and feedback received if things are assembled correctly. It's a rough test, to clear the obvious while comparing against a baseline of an engine they knew was assembled correctly.

Edit,

Later, just before leaving the line, the car is fired up and tested. But this is not a formal dyno or break-in. They hock up, start the engine, run through the gears, check lights, computer feedback, etc. It's a detailed test of the car as a whole, but it is not performance-minded. Just detailed diagnostics.

YMMV.

Regarding break-in, the following is the process I followed. Afterwards, I cite an oil analysis thread, one recent post I made showing the changes in engine and oil properties. Finally, I'm attaching an article on cylinder wall glazing and why it's important to load the engine in a given manner.

Again, YMMV.

This topic tends to bring a wide variation of feedback. Below is the path I took: what I considered as a progressive break-in, increasing the engine RPM and load with each drive in the first several uses.

Information below is from posts I've made previously.

Read the Owner's Manual regarding initial driving and break-in. There are general guidelines and references you can be aware of and follow.

Don't be surprised if, on the initial drive home from the dealer, you smell a burning smell or smells. Countless people have put the car together and checked it out. There's oil residue and handprints everywhere. These smells should only be present during the first drive, once getting up to full operating temperature.

Before attempting any break-in driving, spirited driving, something which will stress the components, always, always, always bring the engine up to full operating temperature. DO NOT perform ANY stress processes until things are up to temp (185F / 85C).

It is generally a good idea to avoid highway driving, continuous RPM driving, if possible, throughout break-in. If you will be driving the highway, do not use cruise control and vary the RPMs often. Consider taking an off ramp, then getting back on. Something which will vary the RPMs and loads.

DO NOT drive the car at all unless you are going to reach full operating temps. If it will be a short run, drive more than expected to bring the car up to temps. It's actually better to let the car sit versus a short, non-operating temp drive.

DO NOT "lug" the engine, driving the car in a high-load, low-RPM scenario. If you need to downshift, do so.

Something I've yet to do is shock the drivetrain. For example, I've yet to "stomp" on the throttle. I've yet to dump the clutch and launch. Any stressing I've done has always been from a rolling position, being already in motion and being aggressive, but not beating on, the throttle.

I'm a low mileage driver, with the car in Winter storage throughout the season. I'll be changing the oil once a year. The Owner's Manual will explain oil changes and the Oil Life Monitor.

Many perform their initial oil change at the 1000 mi / 1600 km mark. I've come to the belief I'm better off waiting. I feel the initial fill at the factory is not "regular" off-the-shelf oil, but a special fill, to help with break-in. There's also assembly lube. I'm at 34% on the oil life monitor. I'm going to wait another month or two, then change to full synthetic. (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, 5W30).

Regardless how you drive, the Oil Life Monitor counts down 1.92% each week. It will reach 0% at the one year mark, if not sooner, no matter how you drive.

My comments on the factory oil are my opinion, a belief. I have no proof. Many do and without issue change their oil at 1000 mi /1600 km and are just fine. As you'll see with oil viscosity debates, it's a personal thing.

At oil change, consider performing an engine oil analysis. I'll be using BlackStone. I want to perform an oil analysis because I'm curious, but also to document a baseline.

The 2022 manual lists the overall break-in of 1000 miles / 1600 km and offers advice and guidance. It also states oil consumption might not stabilize until 3000 mi / 4828 km.

At one extreme, people baby their cars. At the other, they drive it like they stole it the second they have the keys. You'll find at least one video on YouTube of someone on a dyno hitting the rev limiter, with like 12 miles on the car. You'll know you're on the limit when the dash lighting turns red. LOL.

I took the middle route, and performed what I considered at progressive break in. Each drive, within the first 100 mi / 160 km especially, I increased my highest shift point, to help ensure I was seating the piston rings.

First drive, I was just getting home. I think the highest I rev'd was 3000 - 3500. All I was interest in was getting the car home safe, get used to the car. Ten miles, or 16 clicks.

Second drive, I was consistently hitting 4000 RPM. Not every time I shifted, but I made a point to do that several times.

Third drive, 4500. Same methodology.

Fourth drive, getting to 100 mi / 160 km, I hit 5000 RPM, several times.

From the fourth drive until now, I always shift at least once, often several times, from 5000 to now 6000 rpm. I intend to continue do so.

I would also and continue to randomly park the car and shutdown the engine for a few minutes. The engine gets hotter by sitting still, before it cools off. I then take off and continue the drive, not stressing the car again until temps have returned to normal.

Throughout break-in, engine deceleration is as important as acceleration. I have two advantages, with a MT and hilly/mountainous terrain. I've gotten into the habit of accelerating to 5000 RPM in low gear, keeping it there for about one second, and then slowly backing off the accelerator before continuing. I'm decelerating the engine, letting the engine load slow the car. I'll do the same, at lower RPM, simply from driving around the local area.

Throughout the process and especially the first several drives, check for fluid leaks and the oil level. Oil is denser when cold, with the dipstick easier to read. Oil expands when hot. The dipstick will read different between cold and hot. I always did a quick walk around when returning, checking under hood and underneath. While I checked the engine oil each time, everything else was a visual without opening anything.

However checking oil, check in a consistent manner, always in the same place, hot or cold.

So far so good. I've had zero issues of any kind.

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If you have an oil analysis performed, this is a thread with first-time oil change feedback, what to expect in the report.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/first-oil-change-and-analysis.132878/page-2#post-4125644

I've used Blackstone several times; they're great.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

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We often focus on the topics of load, piston rings, glazing and wear. The following article explains in detail what happens for cylinder wall glazing to occur.

https://www.auroragenerators.com/post/diesel-engine-glazing-carbon-buildup

 

[glenng6]

I haven't followed any particular break-in. I just don't push the RPMs. Initially my miles per gallon was approximately 10.7 mpg. I just broke 500 miles, last weekend, and my mpg is up to 18.6. Glenn

 

[DeluxeStang]

Drive it and enjoy. This isn't 1960.

Just use common sense.

Cars are a lot more reliable these days, that's for sure. I was feeling guilty as hell for doing mostly short drives of just a few miles. It meant my car's, my hybrid maverick especially, almost never warmed up fully. But I've since been told if you're gentle on them, and change the oil relatively often, it's really not a big deal.

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