2025 GT engine oil temp runs hot

[keithwalton]

The base GT is not a track or drag car never has been.
Some influencers recommended it over the dark horse or performance pack because it's lighter so must be better right.
However nearly all of the extra weight is additional cooling required, the rest is aero parts.

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[Junkyard Dog]

the Mustang, and most modern Fords, do not have an oil temp sensor. the PCM uses a bunch of info from a lot of sensors to estimate (and pretty accurately from what i've heard) the oil temp, and among this info is whether or not the auxiliary oil cooler is in place.

Wait, wait. So when I look at the cylinder head and oil temperature and trans and diff temps, your are saying that the engine oil temperature is just the computer's guess about the temperature?

I am not looking at my actual oil temp?

How many of the other temperatures displayed are not being read from a sensor but just calculated by the computer based on conditions?

PP and DH fix all these issues.

Sounds like I have the oil cooler and diff cooler and trans cooler, then.

I bought a PP, and the axle overheated from track use. I added a cooler, and no problems since. I can run a 30 minute track session in 95 degree heat and nothing overheats. If I had bought a DH, it would have already had the cooler. My choice, and I accept the limitations and as a result had to add a cooler.

I have a Dark Horse. So far I have tracked it only for one track day, but it was a load of fun, so I am surely going to do it again (and again). It is nice to know that I have this differential cooler already. One less thing to worry about.

 

[MAT1955]

@dusman59 ...... exactly - back in the day when we built engines everyone let their engines cool between races which were, of course, scheduled to allow that. Some guys used big fans to help cool their engines I even saw some guys with mini ACs and burlap bags that had dry ice in them to cool the blocks. Even the "basic" engine performance of the 2024-5 GT is pretty robust. But as tremendous as that engine is, it is not meant to be flogged in consecutive straight line pulls. Also the temp and humidity play a huge rile in how hard you can treat your engine.

 

[CrossCajunMustang]

If you want to have any fun with the new mustangs(I regularly track mine) I recommend you get an oil cooler especially in the south summer heat(SC).

 

[Germansheperd]

The base GT is not a track or drag car never has been.
Some influencers recommended it over the dark horse or performance pack because it's lighter so must be better right.
However nearly all of the extra weight is additional cooling required, the rest is aero parts.

In all honesty a base A10 GT with 3.55s is the perfect drag car. None of the coolers or aero are needed to go make a 1/4mi hit. It is just added weight that doesn’t have a benefit for drag racing.
FYI I have a DH and love the PP option for GT’s.

 

[Q6543]

This reads crazy to me (base GT)
I would never even think to make back to back pulls, let alone hammering on it 10 minutes non stop. I don’t know if I’ve seen 240 after a pass, I’ll pay more attention next time.

Go electric OP… ICE doesn’t work like that.

 

[roket]

Wait, wait. So when I look at the cylinder head and oil temperature and trans and diff temps, your are saying that the engine oil temperature is just the computer's guess about the temperature?

I am not looking at my actual oil temp?

How many of the other temperatures displayed are not being read from a sensor but just calculated by the computer based on conditions?

thats right. its an estimation, not a measurement. however, i think most or all of the other temperatures are real measurements. the vehicle has sensors for the following: ambient air temp, cylinder head temp, diff oil temp, coolant temp, evaporator temp, fuel rail pressure and temp, manifold absolute pressure and temp, mass airflow and intake air temp, transmission fluid temp, EGR pressure (2.3L), EGR temp (2.3L), engine oil pressure, fuel rail pressure, fuel tank pressure, turbine shaft speed (2.3L), turbocharger boost pressure (2.3L), plus i may have missed a few.

 

[yeti.5oh]

After about 10 min of hard pulls on the highway (manual trans), my engine oil temp goes up to 273, and then I'd back down because i know at 280 it will go into limp mode. I took it to the dealership and they told me they will change the oil to Mobile (i'm assuming full synthetic) at next oil change.

Is this an issue? They didn't mention anything except when they test drove the car and kept it around 4500 RPM it rose to about 240F.

Is anyone else experiencing this?

I added Liquid Molly and Mobil 1 full synthetic.
it will take two bottles of rhe Ceratec we have a 10 qt capacity.
my temps in 100 deg Texas heat running hard max at 255 and I do not have an oil cooler. I can post a video but I personally do not think the cooler does much maybe a few deg drop.
https://a.co/d/68lWAZO

 

[bountifulgoose]

I added Liquid Molly and Mobil 1 full synthetic.
it will take two bottles of rhe Ceratec we have a 10 qt capacity.
my temps in 100 deg Texas heat running hard max at 255 and I do not have an oil cooler. I can post a video but I personally do not think the cooler does much maybe a few deg drop.
https://a.co/d/68lWAZO

The oil cooler makes a huge difference. I drove the crap out of my dark horse the other day when it was 118 outside “AZ” highest my temp got was 219.

 

[krisk]

thats right. its an estimation, not a measurement. however, i think most or all of the other temperatures are real measurements. the vehicle has sensors for the following: ambient air temp, cylinder head temp, diff oil temp, coolant temp, evaporator temp, fuel rail pressure and temp, manifold absolute pressure and temp, mass airflow and intake air temp, transmission fluid temp, EGR pressure (2.3L), EGR temp (2.3L), engine oil pressure, fuel rail pressure, fuel tank pressure, turbine shaft speed (2.3L), turbocharger boost pressure (2.3L), plus i may have missed a few.

If I’m not mistaken, I don’t think the base models have the axle oil temperature; I think only the PP and Dark Horse have them.

 

[Cz_Ziemniak]

Please don’t put ceratac or other additives in the oil. You’re just playing russian roulette with your oil.

 

[MAT1955]

@krisk ..... perfectly stated and your logic applies to any purchase.

 

[MAT1955]

@Cz_Ziemniak ..... 100% correct! My uncle was VP of chemical research for a big oil company. Top performing oils start with a superior base stock and add viscosity and performance packages tailored to the intended use. Adding aftermarket "crap" to them completely alters their abilities.

 

[Cucurú]

I'm baffled, doesn't the engine wear down substantially quicker at those temps? How Ford is ok with making a car like this is confusing. I don't even have any intentions of ever taking it to the track either.

Ford: Let's make a street car with capabilities to go to the track (all of the apps in the car including track mode) but the car can only be driven hard for 15 min.

Well. The 300/301 base is made for town and highway. Not to get beasty at the drag strip. The Performance Pack is meant for that. Even in the old days racers added all the bigger radiators etc. Ford just gives you a decent entry level car with it's PP. For serious track the Dark Horse Tremec is tops in the Mustang lineage. Shelby/Saleen/Roush/etc, is a different level and subject. Most people stop at the 401A PP, Magnaride. Even so, the base DH is only a few thousand away.

 

[Cucurú]

I think I may upgrade to a bigger radiator. Texas can be an extremely hot place, especially if one venture west. Not to forget a transmission cooler.

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