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roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964)

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roadpilot

roadpilot

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You forgot this thread then, :crackup: must be getting old
Yes! And yes! Thanks. Hopefully they remove the other one.

Anyways ...

She got a bath today:

S650 Mustang roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964) 20240525_163651

S650 Mustang roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964) 20240525_180451


Also a couple of things that are on the way:

Steeda full-length jacking rails
Billetworkz brushed titanium shift knob

Pics after installs.
 

Zig

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Yes! And yes! Thanks. Hopefully they remove the other one.

Anyways ...

She got a bath today:

20240525_163651.jpg

20240525_180451.jpg


Also a couple of things that are on the way:

Steeda full-length jacking rails
Billetworkz brushed titanium shift knob

Pics after installs.
Where’s the boat? I see the car and the cart and a float, saw a truck so assume a boat as well. 👍🏻
 
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roadpilot

roadpilot

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24 Dark Horse, 21 F150 Platinum, 16 ATS4, 14 LTZ
Where’s the boat? I see the car and the cart and a float, saw a truck so assume a boat as well. 👍🏻
LOL! Observant.

There are two SXS ('23 Honda Talon 1000R2/FLV and 2021 Honda Pioneer 1000/5 Deluxe). Wife's golf cart too.

We live on a lake. We had a '21 South Bay pontoon with a 150 Yamaha on it, but a tornado/windstorm capsized it last fall. Totalled it. Destroyed all my roll in dock, too. Not ready to buy a new one yet, but I'm sure we eventually will.

S650 Mustang roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964) Screenshot_20240526_114435_Dropbox
 

RLE55

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LOL! Observant.

There are two SXS ('23 Honda Talon 1000R2/FLV and 2021 Honda Pioneer 1000/5 Deluxe). Wife's golf cart too.

We live on a lake. We had a '21 South Bay pontoon with a 150 Yamaha on it, but a tornado/windstorm capsized it last fall. Totalled it. Destroyed all my roll in dock, too. Not ready to buy a new one yet, but I'm sure we eventually will.

Screenshot_20240526_114435_Dropbox.jpg
Well that sucks. Weather this year has not been good, all over.
 


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roadpilot

roadpilot

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Well that sucks. Weather this year has not been good, all over.
That was last fall ... about 2 months after a massive hail storm destroyed almost $50K worth of roofs on our house, pole barn, and out building.

It was a year to forget, that's for sure.
 

Ford Motor Company

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Yes! And yes! Thanks. Hopefully they remove the other one.

Anyways ...

She got a bath today:

20240525_163651.jpg

20240525_180451.jpg


Also a couple of things that are on the way:

Steeda full-length jacking rails
Billetworkz brushed titanium shift knob

Pics after installs.
Looking good!
 
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roadpilot

roadpilot

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24 Dark Horse, 21 F150 Platinum, 16 ATS4, 14 LTZ
Got the rear window tint replaced (there was some dust and particles between the film and the window, so Livingston Auto Spa removed and replaced it at no cost. Couple of pics afterwards, just for fun:

S650 Mustang roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964) 1717707444767-yh


S650 Mustang roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964) 1717707470593-qc

S650 Mustang roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964) 1717707504127-m9
 

ZBOBMAN

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ROADPILOT
Took your advice on drying my car with a leaf blower last night. Worked great. Thanks,
 
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roadpilot

roadpilot

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Magic88

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You bet. Not sure if you are ceramic coated or not, but if you go that route, the effect of using a leaf blower will be just as significant.

You might want to check out this company and see if they offer a short nozzle for your model - makes it much easier and safer.

STUBBY™ Car Drying Nozzles for Electric Leaf Blowers — Stubby Nozzle Co. (stubbynozzles.com)
This is fantastic, thank you!

Had to have my dent guy pop one out when I wasn't paying attention and got a little to "close" to the hood of my truck 😂
 
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roadpilot

roadpilot

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Added the Billetworkz TITANIUM - BRUSHED - FORD MUSTANG AUTO (2015-24) shift knob and auto adapter lockout system. I got the sphere with the black adapter.

EDIT: I originally stated that the knob material was not titanium but was 6061 aluminum. That is incorrect. The knob is made of titanium. It's the auto lockout adapter that is made from 6061 aluminum. After communicating with the folks @ Billetworkz, I believe they are going to update the product description to clear up any ambiguity.

One thing I like about this design is you don't push the entire shift knob down to go into reverse - you just push the collar below it down.

If you happen to get one of these, pay attention when installing it. It's pretty easy, but in the YouTube video they made, they don't mention that, if you push it TOO far down on the shifter before tightening the set screws, it will engage the lockout enough to where your car thinks you're "pushing the button down" (on the OEM shifter), even when you're not touching it. If you do that, when you shut the car down, it will start making all kinds of bells and noise, indicating that the car is not in park (but NO message on the screen to tell you that!). All I did was loosen up the set screws, lift it just a MM or two, then tighten the set screws again. Easy peasy.

Also, removing the trim piece (with the PRNDM markings) is easy - pull up on the FRONT, as there are two clips up there. Once the front is clear, the rear tabs slip out of the slots. So don't try to take the rear out first or you will break them.

The trim piece underneath that (that the boot is connected to) is more tricky. There are FIVE clips on it: Two in front, two on the sides towards the rear, and one on the back edge by itself. BE CAREFUL with the two rear and especially that last one. Start with pulling the front of that trim piece up (use a plastic trim tool), and as soon as you get the fronts loose, do NOT be tempted to just rock the trim piece back 90 degrees -- you will get the two rear/side pieces to come, but you'll break the console where that last clip is on the back edge. Ask me how I know! It's not crucial, as you really only need the four others to keep it secure, but if you don't want to break it, lift the trim piece straight UP (instead of rocking it backwards) and use the trim tool -- those back three clips will come out.

I really like the way it looks and operates. Here a a few pics from the install.

In the second pic, I circled the plastic tab that will break if you don't lift UP (instead of rocking it back) when removing the lower trim piece.

S650 Mustang roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964) 2024-06-11 18.46.27
S650 Mustang roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964) 2024-06-11 18.45.43
S650 Mustang roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964) 2024-06-11 18.45.56
S650 Mustang roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964) 2024-06-11 18.45.48
S650 Mustang roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964) 2024-06-11 18.46.45
S650 Mustang roadPilot's 2024 Dark Horse (R4964) 2024-06-11 19.04.56
 
Last edited:

Magic88

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Added the Billetworkz TITANIUM - BRUSHED - FORD MUSTANG AUTO (2015-24) shift knob and auto adapter lockout system. I got the sphere with the black adapter. Despite being named 'Titanium', it's actually made of 6061 aluminum.

One thing I like about this design is you don't push the entire shift knob down to go into reverse - you just push the collar below it down.

If you happen to get one of these, pay attention when installing it. It's pretty easy, but in the YouTube video they made, they don't mention that, if you push it TOO far down on the shifter before tightening the set screws, it will engage the lockout enough to where your car thinks you're "pushing the button down" (on the OEM shifter), even when you're not touching it. If you do that, when you shut the car down, it will start making all kinds of bells and noise, indicating that the car is not in park (but NO message on the screen to tell you that!). All I did was loosen up the set screws, lift it just a MM or two, then tighten the set screws again. Easy peasy.

Also, removing the trim piece (with the PRNDM markings) is easy - pull up on the FRONT, as there are two clips up there. Once the front is clear, the rear tabs slip out of the slots. So don't try to take the rear out first or you will break them.

The trim piece underneath that (that the boot is connected to) is more tricky. There are FIVE clips on it: Two in front, two on the sides towards the rear, and one on the back edge by itself. BE CAREFUL with the two rear and especially that last one. Start with pulling the front of that trim piece up (use a plastic trim tool), and as soon as you get the fronts loose, do NOT be tempted to just rock the trim piece back 90 degrees -- you will get the two rear/side pieces to come, but you'll break the console where that last clip is on the back edge. Ask me how I know! It's not crucial, as you really only need the four others to keep it secure, but if you don't want to break it, lift the trim piece straight UP (instead of rocking it backwards) and use the trim tool -- those back three clips will come out.

I really like the way it looks and operates. Here a a few pics from the install.

In the second pic, I circled the plastic tab that will break if you don't lift UP (instead of rocking it back) when removing the lower trim piece.

2024-06-11 18.46.27.jpg
2024-06-11 18.45.43.jpg
2024-06-11 18.45.56.jpg
2024-06-11 18.45.48.jpg
2024-06-11 18.46.45.jpg
2024-06-11 19.04.56.jpg
The sphere is the best look imo. Great choice!
 
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roadpilot

roadpilot

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24 Dark Horse, 21 F150 Platinum, 16 ATS4, 14 LTZ
Installed the Steeda full-length jacking rails today. No pics. Pretty easy install.

Ordered the shifter boot and bezel without the PRNDM markings on it, too.
Sponsored

 
 




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