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These are available as singles, I'm not much of a sound guy. If any one has any opinions, please let me know.

Dayton Audio ND91-8 3-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Neo Driver 8 Ohm
While both are good options, something to consider from my research. The center dash speaker is primarily responsible for anchoring the front soundstage and reproducing central audio cues like lead vocals and dialogue when processing surround-sound or 5.1-channel audio. It bridges the gap between the left and right door speakers to create a cohesive image right in front of the occupants. comparing the Dayton Audio PS95-8 and the Dayton Audio ND91-4 as drop-in or custom mid/full-range replacements for a factory Bang & Olufsen system in an S650 Ford Mustang, the PS95-8 functions best as a wide-range driver with superior high-end detail, while the ND91-4 behaves more like a punchy dedicated midrange/woofer that handles lower frequencies better but lacks high-end sparkle.
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I'm not even close to being a expert on sound specs, but I'm going to say anyway, that it seems to me that higher wattage speaker has a lower sensitivity by default.

That said I originally thought a 74 db speaker has a higher sensitivity than an 86 db speaker, but it seems the opposite is true. Meaning I thought a 74 db speaker only needs 74 db of sound to react making it more sensitive than an 86 db speaker.

But the more I looked at lower wattage subs the higher the db sensitivity number was. So just looking for a lower wattage sub will get you more sensitivity. win/win.

My confusion on all this is why I bought the "wrong" sub first time.

Real world listening to this new sub has told me I was on the right track though. For what I have spent in the last few weeks at the vet for our sick kitty, $49 to try the new sub is a drop in the bucket. Hell, is $49 even a full tank of gas?!?
You and @glenng6 are dangerous to my dogs college fund 😜😛🤪
 
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It's great actually hearing music behind you isn't it? Do you have a rear seat folded down? that makes a huge difference too.
So, I dropped the one seat and, believe it or not, it was too much bass. Lol... can't believe I'm saying that! Perfect with seat up!
 
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Stevo: Swapping the sub takes less than 1/2 hour. 3 easy to see bolts and the whole box comes right out. Easy unclip at the back. You will kick yourself you didn't do it sooner. It sounds THAT much better. Install that DD, the Pioneer turned out to be a very poor choice for the stock sub.

Zig: for the most part, that's good stuff. But yeah friggin AI can screw up a summary and details that is frightening think we are supposed to rely on this crap?

I've tried Stereo mode and it feels like mono compared to surround...

Though I agree with balance placement. I put it right at the headrests center.

ATM I have full Treble and Bass with Midrange at 0. too low midrange sounds muffled and too high sounds like a transistor radio.
If playing in surround setting, stick with an 8ohm center channel speaker if you are swapping that out. Dropping to 4ohm will potentially change the sound stage.
 


Cobrakit

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So when all the dust settles, is it that the Redline is considered a better option for subwoofer over the Pioneer because its a better quality speaker and lower wattage?
 
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So, I dropped the one seat and, believe it or not, it was too much bass. Lol... can't believe I'm saying that! Perfect with seat up!
I'll have to try it with the seat up, but always loading groceries, etc in the car. Love the extra room!

If playing in surround setting, stick with an 8ohm center channel speaker if you are swapping that out. Dropping to 4ohm will potentially change the sound stage.
I got the 8 ohm center speaker. People who replaced with 4 ohm reported no issues, but I agree with you, keep apples to apples.

So when all the dust settles, is it that the Redline is considered a better option for subwoofer over the Pioneer because its a better quality speaker and lower wattage?
IMO the Redline or Hifonics sub is a better option not because of quality, but a better wattage and sensitivity match for the OEM amp.

There is nothing wrong with the Pioneer, it's just way over the reach in wattage capability of what the stock amp can do to fill it. The stock amp allocates only 100W to the sub, so how can that do anything in the 1300W Pioneer? Wish I went with the Redline or Hifonics first!
 

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agreed Zig.

My take is that this sub in our car has such a high crossover it just sounds like any of the other speakers. It's the most non-sub sounding sub I ever heard.
The stock sub is so poor, if you used a more normal (lower) crossover frequency, the sub would be nearly silent, LOL!
 

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So when all the dust settles, is it that the Redline is considered a better option for subwoofer over the Pioneer because its a better quality speaker and lower wattage?
Buy your favorite brand... just look for something with higher sensitivity... usually the entry level series speakers (low wattage) will have the best.
 
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If playing in surround setting, stick with an 8ohm center channel speaker if you are swapping that out. Dropping to 4ohm will potentially change the sound stage.
I just installed the Dayton Audio ps95-8 center channel speaker in my S650 Mustang GT, 60th Anniversary. Stock B&O center speaker is crap compared to the Dayton. Sad that that is the best Ford could do with their "premium" sound upgrade. For a $40 modification and the 1/2 hr install, I feel it was well worth it. The Dayton gives a neutral sound that improves vocals and gives crisper highs. I did not notice any volume change and it is not too bright. The Dayton maintains the stock 8 ohms!!! This is very important to maintain sound stage. It just sounds clearer/better! Coupled with the DD Redline SW10A-D4 sub replacement, and it's a perfect upgrade!!!
A couple of things to note...
1. Grill pops off easily with trim tool. Work from the corners closest to you and back towards the windshield. Two clips on the left, three on the right. Stick the tool under each corner and when you get to a clip, rotate the tool and "pop"... could not be easier! After you undo the two 7mm screws, lift the speaker up and out of the dash hole, and unclip the stock speaker harness from the dash harness. You should be clear now! I would use some blue painters tape to secure the dash harness so you don't lose it in the hole.
2. You will need to remove and reuse the wire harness off of the stock speaker by cutting each wire soldered to the +, - terminals of the old speaker. Strip about 1cm of the insulation away from each of the two wires and twist the now exposed wire ends. For the Dayton ps95-8, you will need 2 female spade quick disconnects. 2.8mm and 5.2mm. For the 5.2mm, use a 4.8mm and open it a little with a flat head screw driver. It will fit like a glove after you do that! Crimp the wires in the spade disconnects and you are almost there! The larger one is + and the smaller one is negative. The stock harness has a black wire with a white stripe. That's the positive wire.
3. Cut the two tiny tabs around the hole in the dash so the speaker sits flush. I used 3M double sided foam tape around the bottom ring of the new Dayton to secure it as it sits in the dash. Sadly, the holes do not line up. With the 3M tape, it's not going anywhere! And, I added a foam ring around the top. (See pics!)
4. Connect the harness on the speaker to the harness coming out of the dash. Make sure it is playing BEFORE you stick it down.
5. Grab the grill and just snap it down into place. You are now ready to enjoy!

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