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GT Break in Procedure

JRONET

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I have seen several references to break in practices in various posts. Is there a detailed list of do’s and don’ts for break in? What is the break in time,, mileage, etc. when will you do your first oil change? What Octane do you recommend? I am waiting on a GT Premium Convertible and want to do everythig right. All suggestions appreciated.
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Zig

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If it ain’t broke when you get it from the factory it’s good to go.

although, there are some call outs in the owners manual for tires and (separate item not simply tires) driving characteristics, if automatic transmission learn and then the normalized oil consumption around 3k miles.
 

Skye

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https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/threads/new-mustang-owner.156812/#post-3202835

FWIW, this is a thread I comment in earlier.

Break-in threads are akin to discussions of oil and fuel types: they can generate a wide variety of responses and can become animated. :crazy:. :giggle:.

I first changed the oil at 1,000 miles / 1,600 kms.

I use Shell V-Power Premium, highest octane I can find (91 at altitude).

I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, 5W-30.
 

roadpilot

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The main things to remember are to just drive normally for the first 1000-1500 miles ...
Have you seen some people's "normal"? :cwl:
 


BrianJ77

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OP check out Skye's response.
The main things to remember are to just drive normally for the first 1000-1500 miles, so no strong pulls or redlining; and change oil around 1k mark.
After that you are good to go.
Agree with this. I would add it isn't a bad idea to run up to 5-6k rpm from time to time under part throttle to help seat the rings, but aside from that I agree with everything here. Gentle pulls and short shifting are my play. So far so good at 800 miles. Oil change coming at 1k miles or 6 months from manufacture. Whichever comes first.
 

roadpilot

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roadpilot

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Skye

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https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/first-oil-change-and-analysis.132878/

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

I thought this could compliment the existing discussion.

Regardless how you break-in your car, oil analysis will quantify how well things are going.

If you're interested in an oil analysis, you cannot go wrong with Blackstone. Great company.

Sample kits are free. Once the sample has been taken, you complete the kit and mail it in. It takes about 4-6 weeks to be tested and cost $35. Blackstone will e-mail you the results.

- On the first oil change, high amounts of copper and silicon are normal for Fords

- Visually seeing metal during the initial change is normal. There's the junk from machining and assembly, plus break-in. I witnessed anything from fine grit to rather large bits, but nothing that bothered me. Blackstone will sample the liquid, is not concerned and does not test physical shavings. The analysis will quantify anything which was seen

- Any engine, especially new, will take several (about two or three) oil changes to "flush" out what's there now. You can drain the oil until nothing is coming out, but there's still close to a quart (varies by engine type) in the galleys. Over time, everything kind of smoothes out

- I'm not a big fan of changing to the oil of the month (see above). Find an oil that meets Ford's specs and stick with it. Over the long-term you can change brands, yes. But I'm personally not a fan of changing brands often

Along with all that, there's the rest of the drivetrain getting broken in. Trans, differential, brakes, clutch, etc. Regardless of the path you take, it's best to vary your driving in all kinds of ways. Loads, times, temperatures, shifting, etc. You don't necessarily do something different every drive, but certainly mix it up while everything is getting settled. And you'll enjoy the car more while learning its individual behaviors.
 
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roadpilot

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I'm a huge fan of Blackstone Labs. Used to send a sample in after every oil change for my 2017 F350 Super Duty Powerstroke. I never took that long, though (4-6 weeks). I was getting them back in a couple of weeks, tops.
 

ArthurJGuy

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DO NOT baby it, granny it, cruise on the highway at a low RPM, or otherwise be nice to it for the first whatever miles.

We build engines, and this is by far the #1 misconception about a new engine. If you baby an engine it will never break in and it will be just as not broken in at 2,000 miles as it was at 2 miles.

In order for rings to seat you need high cylinder pressure to press the rings against the cross hatch of the cylinder walls, which means you need to get on it, often.

Once an engine is up to temperature it is ready to be beaten on, regardless of how many miles are on it.
 

YamenGT650

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DO NOT baby it, granny it, cruise on the highway at a low RPM, or otherwise be nice to it for the first whatever miles.

We build engines, and this is by far the #1 misconception about a new engine. If you baby an engine it will never break in and it will be just as not broken in at 2,000 miles as it was at 2 miles.

In order for rings to seat you need high cylinder pressure to press the rings against the cross hatch of the cylinder walls, which means you need to get on it, often.

Once an engine is up to temperature it is ready to be beaten on, regardless of how many miles are on it.
Thats what my dealer said on delivery, they said ford told us you don’t need to break in anymore, drive it the way you want, and don’t come back before 10,000 KM for the first service.

Am going up to 4-4.5k rpm, not more and haven’t gone WOT yet, not sure if i should while things are still settling in.
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