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B&O 10" sub replacement?

steveo1960

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I just finished this upgrade using the pioneer sub. It made a huge difference. Definitely worth it.
Thanks!
It's on my list as well.
I'm not looking for the "boom, boom" type of sound but since I enjoy jazz music I like hearing a clear, clean sounding upright bass and drums.
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dusman59

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So I'm just trying to figure out how you have this wired up. All your wires going to one side terminals plus and minus with appropriate polarity. I believe that would be for a 2 ohm load. Would it be better to set up for a 4 ohm load as OEM. There is plenty of info good and bad hooking up a 2 ohm load to a 4 ohm amp.
 

Radiant

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So I'm just trying to figure out how you have this wired up. All your wires going to one side terminals plus and minus with appropriate polarity. I believe that would be for a 2 ohm load. Would it be better to set up for a 4 ohm load as OEM. There is plenty of info good and bad hooking up a 2 ohm load to a 4 ohm amp.
You run the wires from the amp to both sets of terminals on the subwoofer. The impedance is fine, don't overthink it.
 

dusman59

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Ok thanks as that would then give you a 4 ohm load. I plan on using the Redline 10" as it has a slightly better efficiency rating.
 

Gregs24

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2001Vetteman

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I am also looking to replace my stock B&O subwoofer with an aftermarket speaker. All subwoofers that I have researched have min/max/ideal sealed box volume requirements. I set out to determine the volume of the stock B&O box in the trunk (KR3T-19A067-AF), found it very difficult to measure and determine volume with confidence since it is such an irregular shape. So I removed at filled it with water, Volume is: 17.5 liters, or 0.62 cubic feet.
 

Fruitstang

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You're THE MAN!!!
For years (in Gen6 forum obviously) this definitely important question has never been answered.
So thank you very much, although I just yet decided to go the DD Audio Redline SW10-Route as @cosmo73 did, it will for sure help others who dig deep into that subject!
If you are not on the 6g forum, I'll quote you there if you don't mind.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

Sofa King

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I am also looking to replace my stock B&O subwoofer with an aftermarket speaker. All subwoofers that I have researched have min/max/ideal sealed box volume requirements. I set out to determine the volume of the stock B&O box in the trunk (KR3T-19A067-AF), found it very difficult to measure and determine volume with confidence since it is such an irregular shape. So I removed at filled it with water, Volume is: 17.5 liters, or 0.62 cubic feet.
LOL, I almost did the fill with water thing... but my guesstimate was pretty close. (figured a bit over .5 cf)
 

2001Vetteman

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You're THE MAN!!!
For years (in Gen6 forum obviously) this definitely important question has never been answered.
So thank you very much, although I just yet decided to go the DD Audio Redline SW10-Route as @cosmo73 did, it will for sure help others who dig deep into that subject!
If you are not on the 6g forum, I'll quote you there if you don't mind.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I am not on 6G, absolutely feel free to quote, glad to help.
 

Gregs24

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This is from the 5G forum and updated

Just to help people out, here are a few measurements. B&O enclosure: Remember 267mm will fit inside the ridges and about 277 inside the main recess. Maximum depth is 146mm (or 160mm with mild modification) Nothing in excess of 160mm deep will fit without a spacer. Volume of enclosure is 17.5 litres (0.64 cu ft)

Inner hole size, outer size, depth, sensitivity, dual or single coil (all 4 ohm unless stated)

Pioneer TS-A250D4 (TS-A100D4 in the US) - 230 , 267 , 77, 133, dual (ÂŁ70)
Dayton RSS265HO-4 - 230, 267, 87, 137, single ($135 NOT UK)
Dayton RSS265HO-44 - 235, 266, 90, 137, dual (will not fit without modification)($155 NOT UK)
Focal RSB-250 - 233, 271, 88, 117, dual (will not fit without modification) (ÂŁ90)
Rockford Fosgate R2SD4 - 232, 275, 82, 87, dual (will not fit without modification)(ÂŁ75)
JL10W0V3-4 - 230, 267, 84, 124, single (ÂŁ100)
Focal 25A4 - 230, 260, 85, 126, single (ÂŁ80)
Rockford Fosgate R2D4 - 232, 275, 89, 110, single (will not fit without modification) (ÂŁ70)
Rockford Fosgate P2D4-10 - 232, 280(exc trim ring), 84, 150, dual (will not fit without modification) (ÂŁ120)
JL10W1V3-4 - 230, 267, 84, 117, single (ÂŁ200)
Redline SW10-D4 - 228, 260, 121, dual , 4ohm, 2ohm also available ($50 NOT UK)
 
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FishPerson

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I just installed the DD Redline 10” sub and it sounds incredible versus the stock sub. Took about 45 minutes, added a bag of Acousta-Stuf polyfill and the 4 bar grate. Fits right in the enclosure with no trimming needed but I did grind down the 12 o’clock centering tab for an easier fit.

I stripped the stock connectors(you can get adapters), the black & purple are negative and yellow & green are positive. The DD has push connectors. Piece of cake. The stock amp drives the sub just fine.

https://www.ddaudio.life/shop/rl-sw...-subwoofer-eol-d4-14175?category=10#attr=5952

IMG_0124.jpeg
Where do you put the polyfill? Along the inside of the enclosure? I’m going to try the subw replacement soon.
 

cosmo73

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Where do you put the polyfill? Along the inside of the enclosure? I’m going to try the subw replacement soon.
Once you remove the stock speaker, pack the entire enclosure loosely with the polyfill.
 

FishPerson

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Thank you. I got the fill and even a heat gun. Im trying this this weekend. Im sure theres something i wont figure out or a tool i dont have. Though it doesnt look too hard.
 

MCS

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So is there a direct replacement that doesn't requirement cutting the speaker screw holes?
 

Gregs24

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So is there a direct replacement that doesn't requirement cutting the speaker screw holes?
No. But you can drill new holes rather than cutting the speaker if you prefer. Post #25 details possible speakers but none share the exact same holes. I drilled new holes which worked fine.
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