B&O 10" sub replacement?

[TedWTF]

Looking for the easiest sub replacement for the crappy oem 10" B&O sub for 2024 model. Don't want to be cutting and trimming too much of the factory enclosure. Also would like to know the wiring info for the sub. I think the oem B&O sub has dual 4ohm voice coils? Was wanting a higher efficiency sub, ay least 88spl if possible. Thanks

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[JAM486HP]

Yes OEM is 4ohm dual paper junk. Just did this myself, cleans up the low end and a bit more punch, required no cutting of the enclosure or stripping wires. The factory mounting holes don't match the OEM so you just have to make new holes and screw it in.
You will probably break the OEM grill as so many have, the clips snap very easy, might try a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the plastic and a pry tool maybe get lucky. I heard the first two snap and mounted a 12" grill cover instead

Pioneer TS-A250D4 10" Dual 4 ohms Voice Coil https://a.co/d/0clHvYwp
RED WOLF Door Speaker Wiring Harness Adapter 2 PCS https://a.co/d/050qAN2s

 

[cosmo73]

I just installed the DD Redline 10” sub and it sounds incredible versus the stock sub. Took about 45 minutes, added a bag of Acousta-Stuf polyfill and the 4 bar grate. Fits right in the enclosure with no trimming needed but I did grind down the 12 o’clock centering tab for an easier fit.

I stripped the stock connectors(you can get adapters), the black & purple are negative and yellow & green are positive. The DD has push connectors. Piece of cake. The stock amp drives the sub just fine.

https://www.ddaudio.life/shop/rl-sw...-subwoofer-eol-d4-14175?category=10#attr=5952

 

[Sofa King]

From 6G... a nice guide, courtesy of @Gregs24

 

[cosmo73]

Probably the best $125 I’ve spent on any car I’ve owned.

 

[Tuxonspeed]

I just installed the DD Redline 10” sub and it sounds incredible versus the stock sub. Took about 45 minutes, added a bag of Acousta-Stuf polyfill and the 4 bar grate. Fits right in the enclosure with no trimming needed but I did grind down the 12 o’clock centering tab for an easier fit.

I stripped the stock connectors(you can get adapters), the black & purple are negative and yellow & green are positive. The DD has push connectors. Piece of cake. The stock amp drives the sub just fine.

https://www.ddaudio.life/shop/rl-sw...-subwoofer-eol-d4-14175?category=10#attr=5952

Where did you get the speaker grill from? Got a link?

 

[cosmo73]

Amazon

https://a.co/d/04lduoqn

 

[Tuxonspeed]

Amazon

https://a.co/d/04lduoqn

Awesome! Did you get the 10 or 12 inch one?

 

[cosmo73]

10

 

[JP1]

Looks like this will be my next project as well. Thanks for detailing the products. Did you wire in parallel or series?

Would the wire connectors @JAM486HP mentions work with this project? https://a.co/d/050qAN2s

Thanks

I just installed the DD Redline 10” sub and it sounds incredible versus the stock sub. Took about 45 minutes, added a bag of Acousta-Stuf polyfill and the 4 bar grate. Fits right in the enclosure with no trimming needed but I did grind down the 12 o’clock centering tab for an easier fit.

I stripped the stock connectors(you can get adapters), the black & purple are negative and yellow & green are positive. The DD has push connectors. Piece of cake. The stock amp drives the sub just fine.

https://www.ddaudio.life/shop/rl-sw...-subwoofer-eol-d4-14175?category=10#attr=5952

 

[cosmo73]

It’s a dual coil sub, so it has 2 sets of connectors. I’ll be honest, I don’t know much about car audio, so I just cut the connectors, stripped a half inch and put the purple/black on the negative terminals and green/yellow on the positive. I didn’t pay attention to whether it was black/yellow or green & purple/yellow or green.

I believe those Red Wolf connectors will work, but can’t verify. The Mustang is not listed as compatible in the description but others have used them.

 

[Spartan 818]

So just FYI… the Kicker 48CWR104 CompR 10” sub will not fit. Depth is fine but the odd shaped “bulge” inside the enclosure obstructs the large diameter driver/magnet on the very edge.

Guess I’ll go with the “recommended” Pioneer 10”. Still looking forward to the improvement!

 

[evant8950]

So just FYI… the Kicker 48CWR104 CompR 10” sub will not fit. Depth is fine but the odd shaped “bulge” inside the enclosure obstructs the large diameter driver/magnet on the very edge.

Guess I’ll go with the “recommended” Pioneer 10”. Still looking forward to the improvement!

I just finished this upgrade using the pioneer sub. It made a huge difference. Definitely worth it.

 

[Radiant]

It’s a dual coil sub, so it has 2 sets of connectors. I’ll be honest, I don’t know much about car audio, so I just cut the connectors, stripped a half inch and put the purple/black on the negative terminals and green/yellow on the positive. I didn’t pay attention to whether it was black/yellow or green & purple/yellow or green.

I believe those Red Wolf connectors will work, but can’t verify. The Mustang is not listed as compatible in the description but others have used them.

The way you have it wired in parallel is fine for utilizing the stock amplifier.

 

[cosmo73]

The way you have it wired in parallel is fine for utilizing the stock amplifier.

I figured it was OK as the immediate difference in punch and volume was obvious. It really wakes up the whole system, which is great for me as I have no desire to start switching out any of the other speakers or running separate amps. The weak link to me was the soft, bloated bass and this DD sub really took care of that nicely!

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