My Adventures in Upgrading the Subwoofer and Center Speaker

[Frank 60th Anniv. Mustang]

I'm staying with the stock amp. I don't want to upgrade the amp and end up with problems. I just don't know this B&O system well enough to modify it and not screw something up.

My theory is the lower wattage sub will be more sensitive to the power that's there. I spent over an hour trying to find out the actual sub wattage allocation, and while there's no solid number, it's estimated 100-200W is allocated to the sub and no more.

Though in theory they say a speaker can't be too high a wattage rating for the amp, it feels like dropping a pebble in a pond trying to push 100 amps into a 1300W sub.

As of now the Pioneer sub is clearer than OEM, but no thump at all. I figure for $50 it's worth a shot to try a lower wattage sub and see if it makes better use of the limited stock amp power.

The new sub is ordered and I'll find out the hard way if my theory is right and will post results, good or bad...here next week.

Stay tuned....lol.

I ordered the DD SW10A-D4.
Subwoofer Comparison on Factory Amp

• • DD Audio SW10A-D4:
    • Sensitivity: ~86 dB (1W/1M) – Highly efficient, meaning it converts low factory wattage into much higher volume without straining.
    • Performance: Delivers punchy, hard-hitting bass that easily outperforms the thin stock paper speaker on stock power.
  • Pioneer (e.g., TS-A250D4 / TS-D10D4):
    • Sensitivity: ~74–76 dB (1W/1M) – Very low efficiency.
    • Performance: While it provides a tighter, crisper sound than the stock cone, it requires significantly more power to come alive. Running it purely off the weak factory B&O amp can leave it feeling quiet or underpowered unless paired with an external mono amp.

Factory B&O Subwoofer Wattage

• • Power Output: Ford and B&O market the total system at 1,000 watts, but the dedicated sub channel from the factory amplifier supplies only an estimated 100 watts RMS max.
  • Impedance: The factory enclosure houses a dual voice coil setup wired at 4 ohms per coil (or a low-ohm load handled by the factory DSP), which is why dual 4-ohm (D4) aftermarket replacements like the DD or Pioneer match the wiring layout mechanically.
  Hope this helps everyone. I haven't installed it yet, but for $135 total on Amazon with wire harness and polyfil, not sure if I can go wrong.

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[Starship Enterprise]

Some great info! It all goes along with my theory. The sub I am about to put in is only 200W RMS and also 86 db sensitivity. It's sitting here waiting to go, but waiting for my bad back to feel better enough to do it. It's the Hifonics HFX10D4

I got the Pioneer at first based on so many recommendations here, but feel pumping 100W into a 1300W sub is way too much of a mismatch.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I ordered the DD SW10A-D4.

So this says 600W.

The post after yours says only 100W go to the rear subwoofer.

Is this an issue? Is it worthwhile paying attention to these numbers or no, and why or why not?

(sorry, not a stereo guy, I have not installed aftermarket stuff since the 1980s)

 

[System]

Wattage listed on a sub is the max it can safely handle. There are generally 2 numbers. RMS and max. RMS is how much a sub can continually handle in regular use. Max is what it can handle for a brief burst. That said, these numbers aren't what you would be looking for when considering a lower powered amp like the stock amp in the Mustang. The important number there is sensitivity. The higher the sensitivity number, the louder a sub driver will play with less power.

 

[Frank 60th Anniv. Mustang]

So this says 600W.

The post after yours says only 100W go to the rear subwoofer.

Is this an issue? Is it worthwhile paying attention to these numbers or no, and why or why not?

(sorry, not a stereo guy, I have not installed aftermarket stuff since the 1980s)

Max RMS is damage point when pushed. RMS is minimal power needed. For the DD, 100w is minimal needed (100w-300w), so the stock B&O amp (100w) should be fine. The Pioneer will work, but based on my research, you will get about 1/3 of the volume compared to the DD, (RMS 300w for Pioneer makes stock B&O amp underpowered). The sensitivity is VERY important as well. Pioneer is 74 vs 86 on the DD. DD will perform much better requiring less power... perfect for the 100watt stock amp. At least, that's what my research shows.

 

[dusman59]

Maybe why so many did the upgrade and had a Meh response. I have been happy with the DD sub. Sensitivity plays more when lower input power is used.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

Maybe why so many did the upgrade and had a Meh response.

Meaning the less sensitive Pioneer unit?

 

[Starship Enterprise]

OK, I installed the new sub today. Took 15 minutes. The sub has twin sets of 4 ohm spade connectors. It mounts using 8 screws vs. the 6 Pioneer screws. I just drilled 8 new holes in the box and found 2 more screws. Size-wise it's a perfect drop-in.

So I played SXM and music off my Samsung phone via bluetooth. The difference was staggering! Did it shake the windows? Hell no, but the sound was MUCH MUCH more pronounced than the Pioneer with MUCH more bass response.

Testing was also done with sound faded to 100% rear. Playing SXM, I could hear little digital artifacts, but not from bluetooth. But when sound was balanced to middle of the interior, it sounded FANTASTIC in all modes!!!

The difference was extremely noticeable and a MASSIVE IMPROVEMENT over the Pioneer. The sound overall was louder, clearer, sharper with much better bass response. It just sounded so good!

200W RMS and 400W max, with 86 db. sensitivity, it is a MUCH better match to the stock stereo system vs. the Pioneer.

FWIW, I also keep one rear seat folded down which lets MUCH more sub sound carry through to the front.

I highly recommend this sub. Only $49 at Amazon. Others who got the DD sub probably got a big improvement I'm sure as it also has an 86 db sensitivity.

At this point on the stock amp, I would NOT recommend the Pioneer sub.

Live and learn....

 

[Sig Oris]

OK, I installed the new sub today. Took 15 minutes. The sub has twin sets of 4 ohm spade connectors. It mounts using 8 screws vs. the 6 Pioneer screws. I just drilled 8 new holes in the box and found 2 more screws. Size-wise it's a perfect drop-in.

So I played SXM and music off my Samsung phone via bluetooth. The difference was staggering! Did it shake the windows? Hell no, but the sound was MUCH MUCH more pronounced than the Pioneer with MUCH more bass response.

Testing was also done with sound faded to 100% rear. Playing SXM, I could hear little digital artifacts, but not from bluetooth. But when sound was balanced to middle of the interior, it sounded FANTASTIC in all modes!!!

The difference was extremely noticeable and a MASSIVE IMPROVEMENT over the Pioneer. The sound overall was louder, clearer, sharper with much better bass response. It just sounded so good!

200W RMS and 400W max, with 86 db. sensitivity, it is a MUCH better match to the stock stereo system vs. the Pioneer.

FWIW, I also keep one rear seat folded down which lets MUCH more sub sound carry through to the front.

I highly recommend this sub. Only $49 at Amazon. Others who got the DD sub probably got a big improvement I'm sure as it also has an 86 db sensitivity.

At this point on the stock amp, I would NOT recommend the Pioneer sub.

Live and learn....

DAMM YOU

 

[Starship Enterprise]

lol...I really regret jumping on the Pioneer sub bandwagon that rode around here. So many people recommended it. It took a while to realize how little power is allocated to the sub and how weak it can sound if underpowered.

Seriously...pumping 100W into a 1300W sub is ridiculous. No wonder it had no sound. yet it was still better than the crap OEM sub, but this sub with 200W RMS and 86 db sensitivity is SO much better of a match to the stock system.

The difference is worth the swap!!!!!

I'll save the Pioneer for when any of my home sub speakers wear out.

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