Best oil and oil filter for Mustang GT Premium 2024

[RLE55]

1) Ford recommends using a new oil drain plug every oil change. Mostly for the fresh integrated gasket. ( Screw it ….(lol) I ordered a few extra OEM bolts from LMR)

And where in the Owner's Manual does it say to do this??

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[robvas]

I take possession of my new 2025 GT Premium 6MT on Wednesday 7/16. I plan to do several break in oil changes in the first 3000 miles. Motorcraft FL500S filters and Pennzoil 5w30 Ultra Platinum. Lake Speed "the oil geek" likes the ultra platinum. That said, I have been using Mobil 1 oil in my 2018 1.5t Accords, 2018 2.0t WRX, Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi and youngest son's 2018 Cruze. I change oil at 50% oil life. Waste of money? Maybe, but peace of mind is priceless. Doing it myself is low hassle and cheap enough.

Sounds good but I would use cheap Pennzoil for the first couple changes, why waste money on the good stuff when you're going to have it in there for 500-1,000 miles

 

[Starship Enterprise]

I hear they recommend new tires every 5,000 miles, too.

They would if there were more folks like you out there, that's for sure!

Glad I provide so much amusement for you. A $9 drain plug is not the same as 4 new tires.

And where in the Owner's Manual does it say to do this??

OK…..I looked in the manual and can’t verify what I have read elsewhere. I google the question and get this answer with sources. (See below) Now maybe the sources are actually referring to when the oil pan wasn’t metal. Maybe it is recommended but not specified in the manual. Maybe the original bolt can be reused forever. Sorry if my info was misleading by accidentally stating it as definitive info, but my research in general pointed to it being recommended…(even if only to be on the safe side.)

Yeah even a crushed or damaged drain plug gasket won’t leak more than an occasional drip. But hey, What’s $9……2 dozen eggs nowadays? around here $9 can’t even buy 2 gallons of premium.

Either way, I’ll amend my original post so it isn’t taken as gospel from the manual. I’m learning I have to be careful exactly how I word things around here. The original intent of my post was asking for opinions and further information that others might have here.

Below I have attached 2 screen shots that led me to believe fresh oil drain plugs is recommended.

 

[TX-TBeau]

Sounds good but I would use cheap Pennzoil for the first couple changes, why waste money on the good stuff when you're going to have it in there for 500-1,000 miles

I thought about it. Pennzoil Platinum was like $6 for three 5 qt jugs. Not enough savings to go that direction.

 

[DarkMatterGrey]

There was a time when oil was to be changed every 3 months! I’m going back at least 40 years ago. Synthetic wasn’t a thing yet, and the big breakthrough was Arco Graphite (who remembers that?). it was black becuase of the graphite and the particles were so fine it leaked out of every engine gasket. Being it was black new out the bottle, you could never do a visual inspection worth a damn. Needless to say it was a disaster and wasn’t on the market very long. And yes I used it, and yes…… it leaked out of every gasket.

We’ve come a long way since!

I remember the black sludge. There’s a theory that after an oil change, the coyote BBQ Igniter/typewriter tick reappears since there’s no longer any suspended carbon from the combustion process. And the reason that there’s no tick from the factory is because Ford puts in a friction modifier called XL17, which is black from suspended graphite. But the tick goes away over time as the amount of suspended carbon increases only to come back after the next oil change.

 

[TX-TBeau]

@TX-TBeau ...... times and products change and "the oil geek" and Blackstone do admirable work. When my uncle was VP of a major oil company's chemical research and other family members built custom race engines we tested a number of oils. Most of the best were quite similar. The absolute best for flash over - super high cylinder heat spikes - was Motorcraft. Motorcraft was also tied with Shell Premium for fastest return to viscosity after repeated hot red-line runs. Under dyno testing we could not get Ford oils to break down. Many others did including some of the big names. Ford was also very similar to the best for shear tests on actual bearings and ball bearing forced shear tests. Many "top" filters filtered better than cheaper ones - Ford was among the top of the group. Where Ford shone was in resistance to deflection - fold collapse under surge and pressure and tearing. Ford has a legendary history of racing. I doubt they would risk that heritage with sub standard products of such a critical importance. I trust the engineering of their FULL synthetic and filters. Buy decent oil and filters and change them more frequently than recommended and in keeping with your driving style.

I always change oil early. Good information, I will remember it.

 

[LouG]

I always use factory filters on new cars. For oil, I use Mobil One 5w/30 or Castrol Edge 5w/30LL.
I'd use Motorcraft oil, but I think the dealer uses Havoline which I'm not keen on.

 

[MAT1955]

@robvas ..... for one, all encompassing reason, pick an oil and stick with it. Don't swap oils around. Doing so is much better for your engine as oils have different properties and your engine's components will respond a bit differently to each one. Better to buy the oil you will use forever for your first oil change and stick with that - better IMO to do that and extend the oil change interval a bit than to change more frequently with a lesser oil.

 

[MAT1955]

@Lou G ...... I agree 100% with the comment that a dealer may use "jobbers oil" that is quality but different oil to get the best bulk oil prices for their in shop oil fill hoses. My friend owned a dealership and they did that. I called him out for BS for doing that but he just shrugged and said it's not like I use crap bulk oil it might just not be GM branded oil. I said to him that's still BS. So, what to do? I purchase my Motorcraft FULL synthetic 5W-30 oil and Motorcraft oil filter from the dealer and bring it back on the day the oil change is being done. I flat out told them why and the story about my friend's big GM dealership. They laughed and I bet many Ford dealerships do that too. So, yeah, I 100% believe you that a Ford dealer could be using Havoline ..... but NOT in my Mustang. You get what you pay for and get the service you will tolerate. I don't whine about the price but they had better use the parts I want and install them right. The dealer and I agree on this.

 

[Starship Enterprise]

My dealer offers a tech to come to the house at no extra charge. They offer oil changes, tire rotation, even software updates right in my driveway. I’m going to try it not only for convenience, I can see exactly what goes in the car.

 

[robvas]

@robvas ..... for one, all encompassing reason, pick an oil and stick with it. Don't swap oils around. Doing so is much better for your engine as oils have different properties and your engine's components will respond a bit differently to each one. Better to buy the oil you will use forever for your first oil change and stick with that - better IMO to do that and extend the oil change interval a bit than to change more frequently with a lesser oil.

I'd like to see some evidence for that. Very few people use the exact same oil the entire life of their car.

 

[Farmer Fran]

I use Motorcraft FL-500S filter and 5w-30 Motorcraft blend.

 

[JPGC_S650]

I use Amsoil 5w-30 with either a Ford or Amsoil oil filter with 5k to 7.5k intervals. The oil is solid....but so are the others I have used over the years. As long as you change the oil at proper intervals and perform the proper maintenance...there shouldn't be any issues, due to oil brand. I've used Amsoil, Motorcraft, PP, PUP, M1, Valvaline, Royal Purple, Redline, and Shell Rotella T6 (diesel oil in a Subaru WRX, yes). Never had a oil brand related issue with any.

 

[steveo1960]

So here is my latest (2nd one) Blackstone report. Looks good to me. Comments?

 

[Frogdog1]

I use PUP and the Ford recommended oil filter and plan to on all my gasoline vehicles (with OEM recommended filters for each particular make) for as long as I own them. Never had an engine related failure due to any oil brand. PUP is just what I like, based on experience and for no other reasons than that and PUP is generally recognized as good oil for mass produced engines.

I floored my GT to 140 and then 130 later on this afternoon and the motor still runs fine. That's how I drive. Doing that is good for a car now and then methinks. Some people do it all the time, some never. PUP does just fine the way I drive. Main thing is change your oil and filter more often than Ford says to. FWIW.

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