Best oil and oil filter for Mustang GT Premium 2024

[Cz_Ziemniak]

Experts are a dime a dozen, now aren't they?

540RAT
Lake Speed Jr.
Project farm
Samples from Blackstone labs.

Dont be so condescending

Sponsored

 

[20ducks]

Experts are not even worth a dime.

 

[Cz_Ziemniak]

Okay champ

 

[GrabThatBlue]

Nobody said anything bad about Motorcraft 5W30 full synthetic which is also mentioned in the manual and recommended by Ford.

So I don't see any reason not to stick with that.

 

[MAT1955]

Ford has proprietary knowledge about their engines. One example is the plasma coated cylinders. They have too much "skin in the game" to offer sub-optimum oils. Last I heard their filters were made to their spec by Wix (we used Wix in our 1300 HP marine racing engines). Last I heard Ford FULL synthetic base was formulated by Conoco and the VI additive package was contracted from, arguably, one of the best if not the best specialty oil additive companies, S-Oil, who I was told had made Mobil 1s additive package at one time and maybe still does? Sears would contract with manufacturer's to build appliances for them with packages that were not available from the manufacturers on their own appliances and Kenmore appliances were world renowned. Just an example. I am really ocd with oil and filter purchases (best money ever spent on any vehicle) so unless I was pounding the $hit out of my engine I would trust Ford FULL synthetic and even then I'd have to be talked out of using it. I don't think you can go wrong with Mobil 1 but I don't think you can go wrong with Ford FULL synthetic either ..... and the engine IS made by Ford - they oughta know. Just sayin'......

 

[AZ_Ryan]

This has been beat to death in every car forum on the planet.

Bottom line - pick a decent full synthetic oil and filter and call it a day. The differences between brands is no where near as important as changing it regularly.

Don't over think it and drive.

 

[MAT1955]

@AZ_Ryan ..... 100%

 

[Starship Enterprise]

OK, I went down the oil/filter rabbit hole. I encourage you guys here to please correct or verify the following things I have read online. The problem with online info is that it’s hard to truly verify. So opinions are welcome!

1) EDIT: I have read in other FORUMS, AND GOOGLE SEARCHES, that Ford recommends using a new oil drain plug every oil change. Mostly for the fresh integrated gasket. I CANNOT VERIFY THAT IN THE MANUAL…( I ordered a few extra OEM bolts from LMR anyway because they are cheap enough)

2) Mobil 1 filters are high quality synthetic material, but even though they have anti-drain back valves, the valves are reportedly not designed in the optimum way Motorcraft filters are specifically for their engines. Anyone else hear this? (After being a long time fan of Mobil 1, I am now thinking to stay with Motorcraft filters and get the full synth oil. That will also help if I ever have a warranty issue…in theory)

The only factors I don’t care about is cost. I just want what works best for the engine. $9 a year for a new oil drain bolt is not the issue….more like….is it really needed? That said, I’m erring on the side of caution.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this!

 

[MAT1955]

Changing oil filters, oil and engine air filters is the cheapest way to protect your engine and the best money you will ever spend on it. Also having a record of that at resale time is a real benefit. Ford oil filter. Ford FULL synthetic. Pre-fill the oil filter before installation. Wipe some oil sparingly around the oil filter gasket. As for the oil pan "bolt" being replaced every time - haven't heard that one yet - thank you for mentioning that. IF that's what Ford recommends I'll have a look at mine next oil change to see what I think. BTW..... as for some of these 0 weight oils, IMO you might as well put cat pi$$ in your engine. We refused to put 0 weight oil in any engine we built/refurbished. A customer came back once claimed his marine engine (a stroked 383 with 390 HP) was burning oil. It was. He had used a "famous" 0 weight. No warranty. Engine re-build. IMO even a great VI package can't make-up for a $hit base and voodoo science. IMO the trend down to "lighter and lighter" base oils had nothing to do with engine performance or engine safety but 100% due to manufacturers trying to squeeze every partial mpg out of every engine to get the best average fleet mpg of their groupings for EPA compliance nonsense. It was/is all a croc of $hit.....and yes engine builders love owners who experiment with bull$hit additives and low weight oils - puts their kids through university. :-)

 

[Starship Enterprise]

For a new car under warranty, Or actually any of my cars, I don’t deviate from the recommended oil weight. And I think I’ve made up my mind to stick with Motorcraft For this car. Even though their filters are paper and reportedly 85% filtration compared to Mobil 1 synthetic pleat 99% filtration. The things I read about the anti drain back valve on the Motorcraft filter being optimized for that motor makes me want to play it safe.

I don’t know if anyone has experienced dry knock on start-up with the Mobil 1 filter here, but I have read it occurring on forums. (see below)

I don’t put huge miles on the car and going full synthetic is good enough.

I’ve always been a huge fan of Mobil 1 oil and filters and put them in my 06 GT for 18 years. But personally, I’m playing it safe.

 

[TX-TBeau]

I take possession of my new 2025 GT Premium 6MT on Wednesday 7/16. I plan to do several break in oil changes in the first 3000 miles. Motorcraft FL500S filters and Pennzoil 5w30 Ultra Platinum. Lake Speed "the oil geek" likes the ultra platinum. That said, I have been using Mobil 1 oil in my 2018 1.5t Accords, 2018 2.0t WRX, Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi and youngest son's 2018 Cruze. I change oil at 50% oil life. Waste of money? Maybe, but peace of mind is priceless. Doing it myself is low hassle and cheap enough.

 

[Starship Enterprise]

There was a time when oil was to be changed every 3 months! I’m going back at least 40 years ago. Synthetic wasn’t a thing yet, and the big breakthrough was Arco Graphite (who remembers that?). it was black becuase of the graphite and the particles were so fine it leaked out of every engine gasket. Being it was black new out the bottle, you could never do a visual inspection worth a damn. Needless to say it was a disaster and wasn’t on the market very long. And yes I used it, and yes…… it leaked out of every gasket.

We’ve come a long way since!

 

[roadpilot]

1) Ford recommends using a new oil drain plug every oil change.

I hear they recommend new tires every 5,000 miles, too.

They would if there were more folks like you out there, that's for sure!

 

[Frogdog1]

Changing oil filters, oil and engine air filters is the cheapest way to protect your engine and the best money you will ever spend on it. Also having a record of that at resale time is a real benefit. Ford oil filter. Ford FULL synthetic. Pre-fill the oil filter before installation. Wipe some oil sparingly around the oil filter gasket. As for the oil pan "bolt" being replaced every time - haven't heard that one yet - thank you for mentioning that. IF that's what Ford recommends I'll have a look at mine next oil change to see what I think. BTW..... as for some of these 0 weight oils, IMO you might as well put cat pi$$ in your engine. We refused to put 0 weight oil in any engine we built/refurbished. A customer came back once claimed his marine engine (a stroked 383 with 390 HP) was burning oil. It was. He had used a "famous" 0 weight. No warranty. Engine re-build. IMO even a great VI package can't make-up for a $hit base and voodoo science. IMO the trend down to "lighter and lighter" base oils had nothing to do with engine performance or engine safety but 100% due to manufacturers trying to squeeze every partial mpg out of every engine to get the best average fleet mpg of their groupings for EPA compliance nonsense. It was/is all a croc of $hit.....and yes engine builders love owners who experiment with bull$hit additives and low weight oils - puts their kids through university. :-)

The EPA has cause more people to have to spend major money on millions of engines. Better stop right there.

 

[MAT1955]

@TX-TBeau ...... times and products change and "the oil geek" and Blackstone do admirable work. When my uncle was VP of a major oil company's chemical research and other family members built custom race engines we tested a number of oils. Most of the best were quite similar. The absolute best for flash over - super high cylinder heat spikes - was Motorcraft. Motorcraft was also tied with Shell Premium for fastest return to viscosity after repeated hot red-line runs. Under dyno testing we could not get Ford oils to break down. Many others did including some of the big names. Ford was also very similar to the best for shear tests on actual bearings and ball bearing forced shear tests. Many "top" filters filtered better than cheaper ones - Ford was among the top of the group. Where Ford shone was in resistance to deflection - fold collapse under surge and pressure and tearing. Ford has a legendary history of racing. I doubt they would risk that heritage with sub standard products of such a critical importance. I trust the engineering of their FULL synthetic and filters. Buy decent oil and filters and change them more frequently than recommended and in keeping with your driving style.

Sponsored