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AZ_Ryan
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I put probably 7k a year in it. I also primarily drive my car in a lot of stop and go traffic in Arizona. The oil life monitor is obviously taking my driving conditions into account.
When I took my Mach 1 to the track, I changed the oil a month before. After a track day the OLM was down to 40%. Another example that it does calculate driving conditions into the oil life percentage.
We also know for a fact that on stored cars that aren't driven, the OLM will still call for an oil change once a year regardless of miles.
So my point is, while you should still use your brain when it comes to oil changes, the OLM is still pretty accurate.
robvas
Well-Known Member
Yea, we've covered all that. But I'm just saying for people who put 12-15k on a year, they shouldn't be letting their oil go to 10k, even if the computer says to.
AZ_Ryan
Well-Known Member
I personally wouldn't go past 7k in my car. But many manufacturers now say 10k is fine. Not just Ford. It greatly depends on the quality of the filter and oil, and of course driving conditions. In Arizona most manufacturers recommend we follow then "harsh driving conditions" scheduled maintenance. Of course that may also be BS since we all know dealerships make their money on service visits.
Cavedog
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Back in the day, I had a new Plymouth GTX, 440, 375hp, 3.23 limited slip and 10.1 compression ratio. No way could it run on regular gas. I raced on grudge night at National Raceway every Friday night I could. I wanted to run as well as possible. I got a timing light and went to work. I used Sunoco 260 premium gas bought at the same station all of the time. By using the timing light I bumped up the timing a couple degrees and tested for knocking. I kept bumping until I got knocking and then backed off a bit. That was fine for the street. On grudge nights I put in Sunoco 280 super premium. At that time there still two more clicks on the pump. That could have been 100 octane, who knows. There was a lot of idling and heat build up. I needed the extra octate because of the extra heat. On the rare occasion, I came in off the street and staged and ran quickly, when it was cool under the hood, I could run in the 13.8's. This was real life not ringers tested in magazines. Never lost to a pure stock Ford. I raced them all, boss, cleveland, windsor, Shelby, 390, 428 and 429. I preferred racing other MOPARS and Stage 3 Buicks.
I've had lots of experience with knocking. Thanks for computers, fuel injection and knock sensors. They allow a 12 to 1 to run perfectly fine on regular. They also allow a 12 to 1 run perfectly on premium. Just like timing is retarded on 87, timing is also retarded on 93. No way are you getting full potential out of running 93. If you think knocking with 87 is bad, it's just nearly as bad with 93.To those that say they can feel the difference is bs. I could run a 14.0 or 13.8, the only way to tell the difference was a time slip.
93 worked just OK with a 10 to 1 engine how can 93 be OK with a 12 to 1 engine. 12 to 1 needs an even higher octane rated fuel. Even using 93 octane, the computer, fuel injectors and knock sensors are working overtime to keep things under control.
I've had lots of experience with knocking. Thanks for computers, fuel injection and knock sensors. They allow a 12 to 1 to run perfectly fine on regular. They also allow a 12 to 1 run perfectly on premium. Just like timing is retarded on 87, timing is also retarded on 93. No way are you getting full potential out of running 93. If you think knocking with 87 is bad, it's just nearly as bad with 93.To those that say they can feel the difference is bs. I could run a 14.0 or 13.8, the only way to tell the difference was a time slip.
93 worked just OK with a 10 to 1 engine how can 93 be OK with a 12 to 1 engine. 12 to 1 needs an even higher octane rated fuel. Even using 93 octane, the computer, fuel injectors and knock sensors are working overtime to keep things under control.
MAT1955
Well-Known Member
Define safe. Higher octane runs cooler despite any attempt at timing retardation by an engine Higher octane has components that protect valves not even dreamed of in lower octane fuels. Is your 87 really 87 I ask because 87 is IMO totally borderline for engine damage in the Coyote so if you have a jobber's 87 you are likely running no or $hit additive package components and likely less that actual 87. The idea of running 87 in our 2024-2025 Mustang GTs is IMO right out of the stupid as is as stupid does book.....and all of this is completely in the discussion realm of a high performance engine that will likely be used as such by owners - so 87 in these engines is again a dumba$$ move. Why this ridiculous and offensive subject keeps popping-up is either due to trolling click bait by morons or guys in other clubs trying to make us nuts. Anyone who raises this idiotic question should have to pay the entire forum a beer.
Gregs24
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I also DD and my oil and the IOLM says my oil is 29% life left at 6k miles. I will change at 10k miles or 1 year as Ford say. I am not messing around changing my oil every 3k miles on a DD.
Gregs24
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It isn't 'prolonging' a change it is changing when Ford say. Clearly some people on here never actually drive their cars or they would be changing the oil every 2 or 3 months. We don't live in the 1970's any more.
Gregs24
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Why - they probably do long drives every day at reasonable speeds so much less damage to the oil, they are exactly the people to go to 10k miles. Otherwise they will be changing their oil 5 times a year at 3k intervals for 15k miles. Nobody in their right mind will be doing that.
Gregs24
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Ford say 18k or 2 years on most of their cars now, used to be 12.5k or 12 months. I have driven plenty of cars with those oil change intervals with no problems whatsoever at high mileages (100k plus)
Zig
Well-Known Member
Straight dyno dino bone was 3k and super syn is the same, where’s the improvement?
preignition is the main culprit , otherwise don’t even need a spark.
preignition is the main culprit , otherwise don’t even need a spark.
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DarkMatterGrey
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Here in AZ USA we have extreme and severe conditions, including heat, stop and go traffic, mountain driving, and dusty conditions (just had a haboob last week). Some of these things cannot be accounted for in the “intelligent” oil monitor (oil analyses can though) nor when the oil filter goes into bypass mode.The US owners manual covers those as well as several other conditions along with a more frequent oil change intervals. The owners manual in the US also states these are do not exceed, not a guide on when to do an oil change. Maybe it’s different where you live.
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