Crazy rear end

[cosmo73]

But in the instructions says:
Note: Does not fit 2024+ Dark Horse !!!!

Didn’t check that as the OP has a standard GT. I am unsure of how the DH rear end is different. On a side note, Steeda said it wouldn’t fit my GT350 but the IRS braces and the cradle bushings did.

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[JediMindTrix]

I can attest that the forum members here are giving the proper advice. Unfortunately, it does ultimately boil down to the subframe. Steeda’s subframe alignment kit is the fix for the floaty rear end.

 

[JediMindTrix]

I was searching on here to see if anybody else was having a similar issue when I saw your post so I had to create an account so I could reply and just got approved lol. I’ve noticed mine has been doing that the last couple of days. I just hit 1900 miles and it just started doing it. My rear end feels like it’s doing the same thing but starts when I hit 30-40 mph. I don’t hammer on it or anything either. Yesterday, I saw on a forum where someone said theirs felt floaty and they were told to reduce the psi in the tires. Mine have been around 41 psi since I got it from the dealership (I’m assuming they were supposed to reduce the pressure before I drove it off the lot but they didn’t). I ended up reducing the psi yesterday in all 4 tires to 35 and this morning it drove fine and felt like it was sticking to the road better with no issue. Once it warmed up outside and I left work, it felt like it was doing it again and the rear end felt loose so I tried putting it in sport mode to see if that would help and it seemed like that made it worse so I drove 30 on the way home lol! I let my boyfriend drive it when he came over to see if he noticed anything and he said it felt fine so idk what it is. I’m going to let him drive it again when it warms up tomorrow so he can see what I’m talking about. I have the continental pro contact tires that came on it so I don’t think it’s the tires. Ughh

I can attest that the forum members here are giving the proper advice. Unfortunately, it does ultimately boil down to the subframe. Steeda’s subframe alignment kit is the fix for the floaty rear end.

 

[Randi]

Does TC control kick in when it happens?

I’m not sure. Yesterday, I’m pretty sure the switch was lit up, but not 100%. I’ll check this evening and see what it does.

 

[GhastlyTT]

But in the instructions says:
Note: Does not fit 2024+ Dark Horse !!!!

Everything in their stop the hop catalog fits the Dark Horse except the longer vertical links, so a kit with those links would technically be incompatible.

 

[roadpilot]

Everything in their stop the hop catalog fits the Dark Horse except the longer vertical links, so a kit with those links would technically be incompatible.

Just get different links. Someone already posted this a few weeks back. Search is your friend.

 

[GhastlyTT]

Search doesn't return my calls!

 

[Adefend]

Look into the steeda subframe brace, subframe alignment kit and subframe bushing support kit. Might help with some of the issues.

Kelltrac has a solution; Their posiloc system. My rear suspension did this same thing when stock as I would hit the gas. Once I had this system installed along with new vertical links and knuckle to toe link bearing, very solid rear end.

 

[BTA]

I would check the bolts in the rear suspension to make sure they are all tightened properly. The bolt that holds the passenger side toe link to the hub carrier was not fully tightened on my car. The bolt was about 3/8 inch from being fully seated and the toe link had about 3/16 inch clearance on the hub carrier bushing. This would let the tow change on that tire while driving.

The rear end of my new Mustang would squirm some over sharp rises that would unload the suspension and squirm more when I would accelerate harder and the transmission would shift gears. This went away after I tightened the bolt.

With about 200 miles on the car I put it on ramps to see what was involved in installing a stop the hop kit and that is when I found the improperly tightened bolt. It had what appeared to be red thread locking compound on the bolt and was initially hard to turn but it wasn't cross threaded and tightened easily to the proper 129 ft-lbs.

I told my dealer about the loose bolt and hopefully they told the factory.

 

[jboogie1289]

When you have a moment, check the placard in the door jam; this will list the PSI/BAR the tires should be set to. 41 psi / 2.81 bar was their shipping pressures when the car left the factory; yes, these were way to high. When cold in the AM, 35 psi / 2.4 bar still seems a bit much.

If you're using the Tire Pressure Management System screen to confirm pressures, it rounds the actual number, but should be within 1 psi of actual. If using a physical pen-style or some other gauge, confirm its accuracy by checking against another.

I was thinking 32 psi is more where it should be. Then, once driven and the tires began to warm up (plus with the ambient temps) your pressure should be at +- 35 psi ~. And from what another poster said, they have Continental Rubber so I’m assuming it’s a Non PP edition. On my commute in to the Plant, the last overpass curve I come upon I take it at 75mph (when traffic allows) and it sticks quite well. No slidding, wobbling, floating or drivability issues with tracking.

 

[Paul's stable]

When you have a moment, check the placard in the door jam; this will list the PSI/BAR the tires should be set to. 41 psi / 2.81 bar was their shipping pressures when the car left the factory; yes, these were way to high. When cold in the AM, 35 psi / 2.4 bar still seems a bit much.

If you're using the Tire Pressure Management System screen to confirm pressures, it rounds the actual number, but should be within 1 psi of actual. If using a physical pen-style or some other gauge, confirm its accuracy by checking against another.

Mine are 33/34 cold then 36/37 hot and are seeming to wear normally.

 

[Gr8ful]

My door says 36psi front and rear for the factory 20" wheels and Goodyear tires. I will get under car and check bolts when I install the H pipe. Thanks for tip.

 

[roadpilot]

Mine are 33/34 cold then 36/37 hot and are seeming to wear normally.

That's how it's supposed to work!

 

[dollybud]

What is a subframe lockout?

It’s bracing you put together in the rear of your. I would change the rear lower links first from the factory ones. They are heavier and help stop the rear from swaying by planting the tires more firmly on the pavement.
sub frame is more if u want to drag race. It takes away any swaying. About $500.00 hundred bucks. Rear links about $100.00 for the pair, and fairly easy to install.

 

[Gr8ful]

Are the rear links a big job?

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