I don't always know what is right, but I often know what is wrong (even if I do it). That is wrong. A spun bearing doesn't know it let you down and it sure didn't have expectations of the drivers spirit.
Consider changing the title of your thread to, "The Break-In Thread. Your Advice and Experience." Or something of the sort. I expect it to receive a lot of comments and be long-lived.
The following relates to my experience with a 2022, Coyote Gen 3, now 1200 mi / 1930 km from new. The Coyote is a proven performer. It's a great engine that likes to rev. The engine does not wake up until past 4000 RPM.
Read the Owner's Manual regarding initial driving and break-in. There are general guidelines and references you can be aware of and follow.
Don't be surprised if, on the initial drive home from the dealer, you smell a burning smell or smells. Countless people have put the car together and checked it out. There's oil residue and handprints everywhere. These smells should only be present during the first drive, once getting up to full operating temperature.
Before attempting any break-in driving, spirited driving, something which will stress the components, always, always, always bring the engine up to full operating temperature. DO NOT perform ANY stress processes until things are up to temp.
It is generally a good idea to avoid highway driving, continuous RPM driving, if possible, throughout break-in. If you will be driving the highway, do not use cruise control and vary the RPMs often. Consider taking an off ramp, then getting back on. Something which will vary the RPMs and loads.
DO NOT drive the car at all unless you are going to reach full operating temps. If it will be a short run, drive more than expected to bring the car up to temps. It's actually better to let the car sit versus a short, non-operating temp drive.
DO NOT "lug" the engine, driving the car in a high-load, low-RPM scenario. If you need to downshift, do so.
Something I've yet to do is shock the drivetrain. For example, I've yet to "stomp" on the throttle. I've yet to dump the clutch and launch. Any stressing I've done has always been from a rolling position, being already in motion and being aggressive, but not beating on, the throttle.
I'm a low mileage driver, with the car in Winter storage throughout the season. I'll be changing the oil once a year. The Owner's Manual will explain oil changes and the Oil Life Monitor.
Many perform their initial oil change at the 1000 mi / 1600 km mark. I've come to the belief I'm better off waiting. I feel the initial fill at the factory is not "regular" off-the-shelf oil, but a special fill, to help with break-in. There's also assembly lube. I'm at 34% on the oil life monitor. I'm going to wait another month or two, then change to full synthetic.
Regardless how you drive, the Oil Life Monitor counts down 1.92% each week. It will reach 0% at the one year mark, if not sooner, no matter how you drive.
My comments on the factory oil are my opinion, a belief. I have no proof. Many do and without issue change their oil at 1000 mi /1600 km and are just fine. As you'll see with oil viscosity debates, it's a personal thing.
At oil change, consider performing an engine oil analysis. I'll be using BlackStone. I want to perform an oil analysis because I'm curious, but also to document a baseline.
The 2022 manual lists the overall break-in of 1000 miles / 1600 km and offers advice and guidance. It also states oil consumption might not stabilize until 3000 mi / 4828 km.
At one extreme, people baby their cars. At the other, they drive it like they stole it the second they have the keys. You'll find at least one video on YouTube of someone on a dyno hitting the rev limiter, with like 12 miles on the car. You'll know you're on the limit when the dash lighting turns red. LOL.
I took the middle route, and performed what I considered at progressive break in. Each drive, within the first 100 mi / 160 km especially, I increased my highest shift point, to help ensure I was seating the piston rings.
First drive, I was just getting home. I think the highest I rev'd was 3000 - 3500. All I was interest in was getting the car home safe, get used to the car. Ten miles, or 16 clicks.
Second drive, I was consistently hitting 4000 RPM. Not every time I shifted, but I made a point to do that several times.
Third drive, 4500. Same methodology.
Fourth drive, getting to 100 mi / 160 km, I hit 5000 RPM, several times. It's when I learned for the first time just how quick the car could accelerate. And I loved it.
From the fourth drive until now, I always shift at least once, often several times, from 5000 to now 6000 rpm. I intend to continue do so.
I would also and continue to randomly park the car and shutdown the engine for a few minutes. The engine gets hotter by sitting still, before it cools off. I then take off and continue the drive, not stressing the car again until temps have returned to normal.
Throughout break-in, engine deceleration is as important as acceleration. I have two advantages, with a MT and hilly/mountainous terrain. I've gotten into the habit of accelerating to 5000 RPM in low gear, keeping it there for about one second, and then slowly backing off the accelerator before continuing. I'm decelerating the engine, letting the engine load slow the car. I'll do the same, at lower RPM, simply from driving around the local area.
Throughout the process and especially the first several drives, check for fluid leaks and the oil level. Oil is denser when cold, with the dipstick easier to read. Oil expands when hot. The dipstick will read different between cold and hot. I always did a quick walk around when returning, checking under hood and underneath. While I checked the engine oil each time, everything else was a visual without opening anything.
However checking oil, check in a consistent manner, always in the same place, hot or cold.
So far so good. I've had zero issues of any kind.
Many more comments should come and give you plenty of feedback to assist.
