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2025 GT engine oil temp runs hot

Germansheperd

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Castrol? You do understand it’s all advertising???
They don’t make their own oil bro.
They do not own a refinery!
They buy bulk from bulk suppliers.
They make it .
They designed it bro
I suggest RIF- reading is fundamental
 

LouG

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They own it now.
For 25 years it was bulk scrap
Sorry
Castrol has been around since 1899 when it was called the Wakefield Oil Co. The name change to Castrol came from the castor oil lubricant that they were famous for.
Not only was caster oil a great lubricant for early aero engines, it was an excellent laxitive for the pilots who breathed and swallowed quite a lot of it.
It's still a highly rated oil company. But their product no longer has that dual purpose.
 

Stanzi

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After about 10 min of hard pulls on the highway (manual trans), my engine oil temp goes up to 273, and then I'd back down because i know at 280 it will go into limp mode. I took it to the dealership and they told me they will change the oil to Mobile (i'm assuming full synthetic) at next oil change.

Is this an issue? They didn't mention anything except when they test drove the car and kept it around 4500 RPM it rose to about 240F.

Is anyone else experiencing this?
I have the Performance Pack ‘25 GT Manual. It’s hard to get her above 200!!

one of the reasons I was adamant about the PP- the oil cooler and vent in the front bumper to keep it cool.
 

Frogdog1

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So if say, getting a good synthetic to 235 now and then, how is that bad on an oil that will stand much higher temps. Than that? Especially if the oil is changed no later than 5000 miles? Just asking, not challenging anything. Today’s good oil will take a lot.
 


Zig

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So if say, getting a good synthetic to 235 now and then, how is that bad on an oil that will stand much higher temps. Than that? Especially if the oil is changed no later than 5000 miles? Just asking, not challenging anything. Today’s good oil will take a lot.
Is it the temperature of the oil or the reason for the lubricant that is a greater concern? Sure oil break down is a problem but like you said, manufactured for higher temps but if it’s getting hotter than normal is the ‘why and what else is impacted’ that may be concerning?
 

Frogdog1

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Is it the temperature of the oil or the reason for the lubricant that is a greater concern? Sure oil break down is a problem but like you said, manufactured for higher temps but if it’s getting hotter than normal is the ‘why and what else is impacted’ that may be concerning?
I guess I'm asking, "Is getting a good oil (PUP) to 235 fairly often breaking it down enough to be concerned about when it will take much higher temps than that?" My oil won't get to 235 unless it's been run fairly hard. It's the number of times getting to 235 between changes that has me wondering if it matters. I'm no more of an oil expert than most people here.
 

rijndael

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The problem is: 235F doesn’t mean 235F everywhere. Oil in the pan isn’t the same temp as on a cylinder wall or on a bearing surface. And, we don’t even know if 235F is 235F … because it’s a computer algorithm. I’ve seen some data that suggests 235F in the pan is 310F at the bearing.

If you want to know how your oil is holding up, get some used oil analysis’ done. You’ll look for how it’s thinning out, wear metals, and other nuggets. It’s far from perfect, but it’s better than forum people guessing.
 
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davidkwpg

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I have the Performance Pack ‘25 GT Manual. It’s hard to get her above 200!!

one of the reasons I was adamant about the PP- the oil cooler and vent in the front bumper to keep it cool.
Ditto for me
 

MustangNoob

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@rijndael did you have the chance to finish your measurements ? Would be good so see the difference before and after the oil cooler installation. Thanks!
 

Frogdog1

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It does this because you did 10 minutes of "hard pulls". You likely have a stock car, not a race car.
 
 








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