Cobra Jet
Well-Known Member
^^^I qualify for X-plan through my employer, but I don't see much of a discount. Prices posted on dealer's websites are lower. What's the point? Now I see good discounts using truecar.com.
Agreed.
I too qualified for X-plan - when we located my car and called the selling Dealer, they quoted me MSRP (which I already knew from the online window sticker). Then I told them I had X-plan, they gave me another quote which was just about $1k off MSRP...(which was BS).
So I played their game.
I worked them and ended up getting a way better deal w/o the X-Plan, just on the bottom line price of the vehicle.... Oh... And boy were they pissed when I showed up with a trade... They couldn't adjust the price of their vehicle, because I made them put the deal of agreed upon price of their vehicle (and the VIN number) in writing in an email and I put a deposit down - which essentially was a "contract".
When I showed up in person at the Dealer and said "oh, I have a trade-in" - they responded with "WHAT?! You didn't tell us you had a trade when negotiating the price of the Mustang!!"
To which I politely responded - "you didn't ask". "You (Salesperson) didn't ask me if I had any trade, your Internet Sales Dept which took my initial inquiry never asked AND your own Boss never asked when he agreed & took my final negotiated offer on your vehicle".
------SILENCE------
Well... Just that part alone took us literally 30-45 mins to negotiate the trade in value on my Genesis... And at one point I told them I was leaving because I didn't drive 2hrs to play games and I'll buy elsewhere... Then their Used Car Manager came out and haggled with his "best offer", which met our terms.
:lol:
So for all of you out there looking to buy (new or used) S550s - here's some tips that may help your deal go better when NEGOTIATING A DEAL OVER THE PHONE:
1) Negotiate the BEST DEAL on the price of the S550 BEFORE mentioning anything about having a trade in (if applicable) AND before X-plan. If they ask about trade, say you don't have one. Mention that you are already dealing with another Dealer on the same car with same options (even if you are not), this will make them want to get your business.
2) IF their "deal" is HIGHER than X-Plan (without a trade), see if you can work them more to get them BELOW the X-Plan. Best to know what your X-Plan price is before starting any negotiating. If they won't come close to your X-Plan price (if hard ass Dealer), only then mention you do have X-Plan and work from there.
3) IF their working deal is inititally LOWER than X-Plan, don't even mention X-Plan, it's not worth it.
4) AFTER getting best price on the S550 - then ask if any rebates apply, if they do (and they were not applied to the current negotiated price) ask them to add the applicable rebates to drop price lower.
5) Now AFTER getting what YOU FEEL IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST NEGOTIATED PRICE ON THEIR VEHICLE - ask if they can put it in writing in an email and ask if you can leave a deposit ($500 is what most will require and it should also be fully refundable). Also ask them to add the VIN # and/or copy of Window Sticker to the email to verify its the car you negotiated the deal on.
6) NOW you have LOCKED them in on the price of THEIR vehicle once you have it in writing!
7) Go to Dealer to finalize deal and pick up car. Now this will start the whole "let's make a deal on the terms and APR" BS... Now before you start with any paperwork or agreeing to anything else, if you do have a trade in - NOW is the time to mention it and make sure you have a number in your head that you will NOT go lower than "X" for the value of your trade. If they get all bent that you never mentioned a trade in - simply say "at the time I was not sure I was going to let go of the vehicle for a trade in." *Whammy*
Other money saving tips/tricks:
A) IF you have existing license plates - DO NOT PAY FOR NEW ONES if your State does not require you to surrender plates!!! By doing so, you can save more $$$ on the DMV/Plate/Registration fees that are added into your financing!!! I transferred over my NJ plates and saved almost another $300 off the final finance work up!!
B) Don't fall for the "Do you want GAP insurance, we offer it for additional $$$"! Most Auto Insurance Companies today offer GAP for merely a few dollars more on your total Policy (inquire if you do not know)! No point in financing GAP insurance!
C) If you trade up cars often, don't pay for any additional "Extended Warranties", most of the time, people hardly get to use them because the years or months will come quicker than the accrued mileage limitation (or visa versa if owner drives a lot of annual miles).
D) ALWAYS negotiate the APR!!! NEVER settle for the APR stated - negotiate this, regardless of your credit rating!!!! Just by dropping .5 or even 1 APR percentage point you can save quite a bit on the total financed (and total interest paid). Those Finance Managers get kickbacks from the Banks they deal with - they CAN drop the APR and take a small hit on their profit if they want to make the deal happen - after all, they are the last person you deal with and if they blow the sale, Management is gonna get real pissed if you're ready to walk..
E) NEGOTIATE YOUR DEAL THE LAST WEEK IN MONTH. Dealers need to reach monthly and annual Sales Figures to report up to Corporate. The closer you negotiate to the end of the month, the more desperate the Dealer and Sales/Finance folks are to MAKE A DEAL, because it benefits ALL of them... They don't make X-amount of sales in given month, it's not good for their report of metrics to Ford Corporate.
Hope the above helps someone - it's always worked for me....
Cheers!!:cheers:
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