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X-Plan on New Mustang

Cobra Jet

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I qualify for X-plan through my employer, but I don't see much of a discount. Prices posted on dealer's websites are lower. What's the point? Now I see good discounts using truecar.com.
^^^
Agreed.

I too qualified for X-plan - when we located my car and called the selling Dealer, they quoted me MSRP (which I already knew from the online window sticker). Then I told them I had X-plan, they gave me another quote which was just about $1k off MSRP...(which was BS).

So I played their game.


I worked them and ended up getting a way better deal w/o the X-Plan, just on the bottom line price of the vehicle.... Oh... And boy were they pissed when I showed up with a trade... They couldn't adjust the price of their vehicle, because I made them put the deal of agreed upon price of their vehicle (and the VIN number) in writing in an email and I put a deposit down - which essentially was a "contract".

When I showed up in person at the Dealer and said "oh, I have a trade-in" - they responded with "WHAT?! You didn't tell us you had a trade when negotiating the price of the Mustang!!"

To which I politely responded - "you didn't ask". "You (Salesperson) didn't ask me if I had any trade, your Internet Sales Dept which took my initial inquiry never asked AND your own Boss never asked when he agreed & took my final negotiated offer on your vehicle".

------SILENCE------

Well... Just that part alone took us literally 30-45 mins to negotiate the trade in value on my Genesis... And at one point I told them I was leaving because I didn't drive 2hrs to play games and I'll buy elsewhere... Then their Used Car Manager came out and haggled with his "best offer", which met our terms.

:lol:

So for all of you out there looking to buy (new or used) S550s - here's some tips that may help your deal go better when NEGOTIATING A DEAL OVER THE PHONE:

1) Negotiate the BEST DEAL on the price of the S550 BEFORE mentioning anything about having a trade in (if applicable) AND before X-plan. If they ask about trade, say you don't have one. Mention that you are already dealing with another Dealer on the same car with same options (even if you are not), this will make them want to get your business.

2) IF their "deal" is HIGHER than X-Plan (without a trade), see if you can work them more to get them BELOW the X-Plan. Best to know what your X-Plan price is before starting any negotiating. If they won't come close to your X-Plan price (if hard ass Dealer), only then mention you do have X-Plan and work from there.

3) IF their working deal is inititally LOWER than X-Plan, don't even mention X-Plan, it's not worth it.

4) AFTER getting best price on the S550 - then ask if any rebates apply, if they do (and they were not applied to the current negotiated price) ask them to add the applicable rebates to drop price lower.

5) Now AFTER getting what YOU FEEL IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST NEGOTIATED PRICE ON THEIR VEHICLE - ask if they can put it in writing in an email and ask if you can leave a deposit ($500 is what most will require and it should also be fully refundable). Also ask them to add the VIN # and/or copy of Window Sticker to the email to verify its the car you negotiated the deal on.

6) NOW you have LOCKED them in on the price of THEIR vehicle once you have it in writing!

7) Go to Dealer to finalize deal and pick up car. Now this will start the whole "let's make a deal on the terms and APR" BS... Now before you start with any paperwork or agreeing to anything else, if you do have a trade in - NOW is the time to mention it and make sure you have a number in your head that you will NOT go lower than "X" for the value of your trade. If they get all bent that you never mentioned a trade in - simply say "at the time I was not sure I was going to let go of the vehicle for a trade in." *Whammy* :)

Other money saving tips/tricks:
A) IF you have existing license plates - DO NOT PAY FOR NEW ONES if your State does not require you to surrender plates!!! By doing so, you can save more $$$ on the DMV/Plate/Registration fees that are added into your financing!!! I transferred over my NJ plates and saved almost another $300 off the final finance work up!!

B) Don't fall for the "Do you want GAP insurance, we offer it for additional $$$"! Most Auto Insurance Companies today offer GAP for merely a few dollars more on your total Policy (inquire if you do not know)! No point in financing GAP insurance!

C) If you trade up cars often, don't pay for any additional "Extended Warranties", most of the time, people hardly get to use them because the years or months will come quicker than the accrued mileage limitation (or visa versa if owner drives a lot of annual miles).

D) ALWAYS negotiate the APR!!! NEVER settle for the APR stated - negotiate this, regardless of your credit rating!!!! Just by dropping .5 or even 1 APR percentage point you can save quite a bit on the total financed (and total interest paid). Those Finance Managers get kickbacks from the Banks they deal with - they CAN drop the APR and take a small hit on their profit if they want to make the deal happen - after all, they are the last person you deal with and if they blow the sale, Management is gonna get real pissed if you're ready to walk..

E) NEGOTIATE YOUR DEAL THE LAST WEEK IN MONTH. Dealers need to reach monthly and annual Sales Figures to report up to Corporate. The closer you negotiate to the end of the month, the more desperate the Dealer and Sales/Finance folks are to MAKE A DEAL, because it benefits ALL of them... They don't make X-amount of sales in given month, it's not good for their report of metrics to Ford Corporate.


Hope the above helps someone - it's always worked for me....


Cheers!!:cheers::)
Sponsored

 
Last edited:

stang77

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^^^
Agreed.

I too qualified for X-plan - when we located my car and called the selling Dealer, they quoted me MSRP (which I already knew from the online window sticker). Then I told them I had X-plan, they gave me another quote which was just about $1k off MSRP...(which was BS).

So I played their game.


I worked them and ended up getting a way better deal w/o the X-Plan, just on the bottom line price of the vehicle.... Oh... And boy were they pissed when I showed up with a trade... They couldn't adjust the price of their vehicle, because I made them put the deal of agreed upon price of their vehicle (and the VIN number) in writing in an email and I put a deposit down - which essentially was a "contract".

When I showed up in person at the Dealer and said "oh, I have a trade-in" - they responded with "WHAT?! You didn't tell us you had a trade when negotiating the price of the Mustang!!"

To which I politely responded - "you didn't ask". "You (Salesperson) didn't ask me if I had any trade, your Internet Sales Dept which took my initial inquiry never asked AND your own Boss never asked when he agreed & took my final negotiated offer on your vehicle".

------SILENCE------

Well... Just that part alone took us literally 30-45 mins to negotiate the trade in value on my Genesis... And at one point I told them I was leaving because I didn't drive 2hrs to play games and I'll buy elsewhere... Then their Used Car Manager came out and haggled with his "best offer", which met our terms.

:lol:

So for all of you out there looking to buy (new or used) S550s - here's some tips that may help your deal go better when NEGOTIATING A DEAL OVER THE PHONE:

1) Negotiate the BEST DEAL on the price of the S550 BEFORE mentioning anything about having a trade in (if applicable) AND before X-plan. If they ask about trade, say you don't have one. Mention that you are already dealing with another Dealer on the same car with same options (even if you are not), this will make them want to get your business.

2) IF their "deal" is HIGHER than X-Plan (without a trade), see if you can work them more to get them BELOW the X-Plan. Best to know what your X-Plan price is before starting any negotiating. If they won't come close to your X-Plan price (if hard ass Dealer), only then mention you do have X-Plan and work from there.

3) IF their working deal is inititally LOWER than X-Plan, don't even mention X-Plan, it's not worth it.

4) AFTER getting best price on the S550 - then ask if any rebates apply, if they do (and they were not applied to the current negotiated price) ask them to add the applicable rebates to drop price lower.

5) Now AFTER getting what YOU FEEL IS THE ABSOLUTE BEST NEGOTIATED PRICE ON THEIR VEHICLE - ask if they can put it in writing in an email and ask if you can leave a deposit ($500 is what most will require and it should also be fully refundable). Also ask them to add the VIN # and/or copy of Window Sticker to the email to verify its the car you negotiated the deal on.

6) NOW you have LOCKED them in on the price of THEIR vehicle once you have it in writing!

7) Go to Dealer to finalize deal and pick up car. Now this will start the whole "let's make a deal on the terms and APR" BS... Now before you start with any paperwork or agreeing to anything else, if you do have a trade in - NOW is the time to mention it and make sure you have a number in your head that you will NOT go lower than "X" for the value of your trade. If they get all bent that you never mentioned a trade in - simply say "at the time I was not sure I was going to let go of the vehicle for a trade in." *Whammy* :)

Other money saving tips/tricks:
A) IF you have existing license plates - DO NOT PAY FOR NEW ONES if your State does not require you to surrender plates!!! By doing so, you can save more $$$ on the DMV/Plate/Registration fees that are added into your financing!!! I transferred over my NJ plates and saved almost another $300 off the final finance work up!!

B) Don't fall for the "Do you want GAP insurance, we offer it for additional $$$"! Most Auto Insurance Companies today offer GAP for merely a few dollars more on your total Policy (inquire if you do not know)! No point in financing GAP insurance!

C) If you trade up cars often, don't pay for any additional "Extended Warranties", most of the time, people hardly get to use them because the years or months will come quicker than the accrued mileage limitation (or visa versa if owner drives a lot of annual miles).

D) ALWAYS negotiate the APR!!! NEVER settle for the APR stated - negotiate this, regardless of your credit rating!!!! Just by dropping .5 or even 1 APR percentage point you can save quite a bit on the total financed (and total interest paid). Those Finance Managers get kickbacks from the Banks they deal with - they CAN drop the APR and take a small hit on their profit if they want to make the deal happen - after all, they are the last person you deal with and if they blow the sale, Management is gonna get real pissed if you're ready to walk..

E) NEGOTIATE YOUR DEAL THE LAST WEEK IN MONTH. Dealers need to reach monthly and annual Sales Figures to report up to Corporate. The closer you negotiate to the end of the month, the more desperate the Dealer and Sales/Finance folks are to MAKE A DEAL, because it benefits ALL of them... They don't make X-amount of sales in given month, it's not good for their report of metrics to Ford Corporate.


Hope the above helps someone - it's always worked for me....


Cheers!!:cheers::)
Good info :thumbsup:. If you don't mind me asking, what dealer did you go through? I see you are in NJ.
 

Cobra Jet

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Good info :thumbsup:. If you don't mind me asking, what dealer did you go through? I see you are in NJ.
I had to go up to Morristown, NJ (it's North Jersey, 2hrs away from our location). The dealer is a small dealer called "Beyer Ford".

It was pure luck - because I had been searching for a S550 that had to have the following options:
Ruby Red
Ceramic Leather
EcoBoost Premium w/Performance Package
Auto trans

We searched nearly all of 2015 looking for that exact combo and no one in NJ had one - not even TriState area! My wife found the car by luck through persistent googling 2 weeks prior to Xmas. When I called the Dealer (there were not any online pics) to confirm options and window sticker info - the car had actually just left Ford and was in transit on a transporter - I was the first and only customer to nab it! LOL.

My deal was negotiated over the phone exactly as I have stated the tips above, which also was the weekend immediately prior to Xmas 2015. We picked up the car on Saturday Dec 26.
 

CEHollier

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Will X-plan work for a Explorer?
 

dgc333

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We searched nearly all of 2015 looking for that exact combo and no one in NJ had one - not even TriState area! My wife found the car by luck through persistent googling 2 weeks prior to Xmas.
Why didn't you just order the car you wanted, takes about 8 weeks? Over the past 40 years I have ordered the vast majority of my new cars. The last 3 were purchased on X-Plan and two were ordered. I had the order sheet completed for my 15 Mustang when they located what I wanted in the next state so I went that way.



Dave
 


Cobra Jet

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Why didn't you just order the car you wanted, takes about 8 weeks? Over the past 40 years I have ordered the vast majority of my new cars. The last 3 were purchased on X-Plan and two were ordered. I had the order sheet completed for my 15 Mustang when they located what I wanted in the next state so I went that way.



Dave
Good question.

First, we were looking for a new 15 w/ above options - then when 16's were coming out, just figured maybe better luck with searching for a 16. We didn't do the "build" process because seeing on this forum how some folks still have not even received their 16 yet - with persistence through searching online almost daily, we were able to find a 16 set up exactly as optioned - and got the car sooner than anyone who has "built" it.

I know the car could have been built, but we just kept searching...:thumbsup:
 

Cardude99

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So I just joined the site, been lurking for a while. I am planing on picking up a 2017 and due to the options I want will likely have to order it. I have never done that before. Rather than looking through 50 pages of this thread, I just want to know how easy it is to negotiate an order as oposed to an on the lot car? I qualify for the xplan but was wondering how likely it is to go under that? Also typically how long is the process from order date to delivery on average?

Thanks in advance everyone.
 

JohnK

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I ordered a 2015 GT PP in January 2015 and took delivery in early March 2015. I used the X-plan price as the starting point for negotiations. I emailed my requirements to about eight dealers in the Seattle area and told them I was looking for a price better than X-plan. One dealer came back with a price that was about $1200 below invoice, so I think I did pretty well. It was super easy to work with the dealer I selected. I know there have been others on the forum that got similar deals. Good luck!
 

stangs-R-me

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Ive' special ordered 5 Mustangs and a Windstar over the years and have always got the dealer to agree to $100 over invoice ... this has ALWAYS been a better deal than X-Plan !!

When I ordered my 2016 a little over 2 weeks ago (Mustang #5), they offered it to me AT INVOICE before I had a chance to ask for $100 over ... once again, better deal than X-Plan.

Buying something off the lot with holding costs, well maybe X-Plan can be a better deal.

Doug
 

dgc333

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On my 15 Mustang X Plan was $89 over the invoice price. What you pay over invoice is a function of the invoice price because the price is calculated as a percentage below invoice plus a fixed fee service charge. You also save another $250 or so with X Plan because it limits the documentation fees to $100.

You can certainly do better but X Plan is a very good and fair price.

Dave
 

ftrv8

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On order '17, but still looking at '18
What else can be used with X-plan pricing? New graduate $500 (since I am done with my MBA). Anything else?

Local dealer is willing to work with X-plan pricing, but since 2017 order banks aren't open yet, I wanted to ask everyone if I can ask for other discounts.

Thanks in advance.
 

69mach1-395

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3 dealers are offering right around invoice with X plan...
 

Kingsize1125

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Dealership info

I ordered a 2015 GT PP in January 2015 and took delivery in early March 2015. I used the X-plan price as the starting point for negotiations. I emailed my requirements to about eight dealers in the Seattle area and told them I was looking for a price better than X-plan. One dealer came back with a price that was about $1200 below invoice, so I think I did pretty well. It was super easy to work with the dealer I selected. I know there have been others on the forum that got similar deals. Good luck!
Interesting!

I happen to be in the Seattle area myself. Hoping to purchase a 17 GT very soon. Would you mind providing the name of the dealership you went with?
 

Thunderbird

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What else can be used with X-plan pricing? New graduate $500 (since I am done with my MBA). Anything else?

Local dealer is willing to work with X-plan pricing, but since 2017 order banks aren't open yet, I wanted to ask everyone if I can ask for other discounts.

Thanks in advance.
X-plan can be used with the current cash back incentives ($750 as of today), plus private cash offer ($750 if you have it, order a brochure and you'll get it), College rebate ($500)... Probably others, but that makes a pretty darn good deal. Basically, $2000 below invoice without negotiating.
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