Winter storage question

[TonyP66]

I do not plan to drive my car over the winter and was planning to cover and hookup a tender to her. My question is I expected to put more miles before storing but life got in the way. I just hit 1k and was planning to do an oil change at 1500. Would you all say change it before or after winter at this point? figure I would be fine with a full tank and no additive as the garage is heated.

Any thoughts on going full synthetic from this point forward? I appreciate any feedback you have. I may not have driven her much but the times I have been able to get out have been great. I want to make sure I hit the spring ready to go.

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[Neggytive]

Ford's oil life algorithm takes life off the mileage even when the car sits. If you change it now 6 months from now it'll be at 50% even if you don't drive the car.

I don't think I'd be changing the oil.

Even if you have a battery tender on it the car will go into battery save mode after 2 weeks and it will shut the modem off so your Ford pass app and over the air updates won't work.

Pump the tires up so they don't flat spot. Put plastic bags over the exhaust tips to keep moisture from getting up into the engine. If you want to take the air intakes off and seal the throttle body that's good too

Mouse traps around the car and something with a strong peppermint smell in the interior to deter them.

If you have Rec90 or similar alcohol free gas available fill up with that before you park it. Otherwise Seafoam in the gas.

 

[DT-GT]

I would change the oil with full synthetic. Did mine at 1k miles and it wasn’t even for winter.

 

[Billycar11]

do it after winter

 

[Skye]

I follow the Oil Life Monitor, which works in two ways:

- Time. The counter ticks down 1.97% each week, even if the car is sitting. This is to ensure the owner is reminded of an oil change once a year, with an anticipated 10,000 mi / 16,000 km service interval

- Operation. Given driving duration, RPM, engine temperature, etc., the algorithm determines the effects on the oil and adjusts the OLM accordingly

Time is the catch-all. No matter how driven, the OLM will expire in one year.

I often lose about 30% on the OLM while storing Skye in the Winter.

I look at upcoming storage and determine how much the OLM will tick down while sitting. If the OLM will expire while in storage, I change the oil before. If the OLM will expire after, I have the option of waiting.

In the first year of taking receipt of the car, I got to 1000 mi / 1600 km just as Winter was approaching. I intended to change mine a bit later. The OLM was not going to expire while sitting. And in my mind, whatever chemical processes and reactions occurring stop with the engine being off.

I did change the oil the next Spring, one or two months after leaving storage. Oil analysis showed nominal results. There was no significant impact to holding the car with "used" oil in the crankcase.

New oil: means what you think it does.
Used oil: oil which has seen the inside of an engine and used for it's intended purpose.
Waste oil: oil which has often been co-mingled with other substances (brake fluid, coolant, etc.)

^ Those are generic descriptions. Each state or county might have their own definitions.

[Edit, reset the OLM after the change. If a dealer or shop job, confirm they reset the OLM, or reset yourself afterwards.]

As to the Stabil, I use it. It's cheap insurance. Some point to winter blends and an increase in Ethanol concentrations, the increase in Ethanol attracting more moisture. I put a bottle of Stabil in, top off the tank. The drive home is enough time for it to work itself through the fuel system.

I've been using full synthetic since the first oil change. A blend oil with some conventional and some synthetic is fine. It meets the standard. Millions of engines are using Motorcraft blend or equivalent without an issue. But I use full synthetics for two reasons: 1) I do feel over the long term they provide advantages in better performance, lessened wear and lessened deposits and 2) full synthetics were designed for a specific purpose, whereas conventional or blend is more from convenience (I needed a lubricant, and it just so happens I can use this).

-----------------An cut-and-paste from an earlier post--------------------

If you have Summer tires, be mindful of the temperature in the storage location.

If the garage temps will be approaching 40 F / 4 C or colder, it'd be a good idea to take the wheels off and stow inside. I wouldn't be to concerned about an occasional one-off, but cycling in and out of that temperature range, it's something I'd rather not do.

If these temps are seen, let the tire come up to at least 50 F / 10 C or hotter, 24 hours continuous, before rolling the tire or moving the vehicle.

- If any maintenance will be due during storage, lean forward and accomplish early

- Full detailing, inside and out

- One bottle of Stabil* and a full tank of gas

- Air tires up to 40 psi / 2.75 bar

- Park in garage, chock wheels

- Car left in neutral

- Parking brake NOT engaged

- Battery tender attached

- Car covered

- Lock vehicle

- Engine will not spin again until the cover is removed and the vehicle is driven

Once a month or so, I'll inspect the vehicle. Cover comes partially off. Using a torch, I'll review the interior, under hood and under car.

* To pour in the Stabil, you'll need the small white funnel from the trunk, or a similar funnel from the parts store.

Coming out of storage:

- Disconnect the battery tender

- De-pressurize tires

- Drive, one hour, continuous. The first drive is something of a trial. All I'm doing is function testing, checking for weird noises, leaks, smells, letting everything move around well. I will encounter some minor flat-spotting, for about the first 15 minutes or so. After this initial drive, it's like nothing ever happened and I drive like I normally would

For those concerned about mice:

- Remove all sources of food from the immediate area

- Remove all materials which could become bedding

- De-clutter the storage area

- Mice do not like strong and intense smells of some kinds. Many use mints or mint oils, at the tires, under hood and sometimes inside the cabin. Others report success with scented dryer sheets

- Depending on the exhaust system, insert steel wool in the exhaust tip openings

- Inspect the area and vehicle often. When you do, make noise and disrupt things. Make the area unwelcoming. Leave lights on. Cycle lights on/off over time

- Set traps throughout the area. Peanut butter or peanut butter crackers seem to be a favorite

- Check outside, the permitter of the home or storage location. Look for signs of varmint activity

- If you use any of the high frequency devices, keep them powered at all times and move them often

 

[robvas]

I just hit 1k and was planning to do an oil change at 1500. Would you all say change it before or after winter at this point?

Doesn't matter.

Any thoughts on going full synthetic from this point forward?

No reason not to use full synthetic.

 

[Old School1]

I do not plan to drive my car over the winter and was planning to cover and hookup a tender to her. My question is I expected to put more miles before storing but life got in the way. I just hit 1k and was planning to do an oil change at 1500. Would you all say change it before or after winter at this point? figure I would be fine with a full tank and no additive as the garage is heated.

Any thoughts on going full synthetic from this point forward? I appreciate any feedback you have. I may not have driven her much but the times I have been able to get out have been great. I want to make sure I hit the spring ready to go.

I changed my tires to all season performance so I could drive mine in the winter during clear weather, no snow or salt on the road. I only drove it maybe 5 times last year and have 6800 miles on my 24'. Not a mechanic but if storing I would change the oil next spring.

 

[msquad]

Right from the Mustang Owner's manual.
I find it interesting that it says to run it every 15 days.
I never start my motorcycles in the winter.

 

[robvas]

Right from the Mustang Owner's manual.
I find it interesting that it says to run it every 15 days.
I never start my motorcycles in the winter.

Probably so the battery doesn't die.

Again, just another reason the owners manual isn't supposed to be treated as the Bible.

 

[msquad]

Probably so the battery doesn't die.

Again, just another reason the owners manual isn't supposed to be treated as the Bible.

Yeah, I keep all my stuff on battery tenders. Even have a couple 5 ampers now for the newest tech vehicles including the DH.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

I'd personally wait to change the oil after storage. There is no reason to not use full synthetic, unless you are trying to save money.

 

[TonyP66]

I really appreciate this community.

 

[turtletim]

I also store for winter. I use non-ethanol gas, battery tender, and keep tires slightly above rated. I also start and idle it every few weeks when weather permits to keep moisture out and the engine lubrication. I trying those plug in mouse blocker devices for the first time this year.

 

[Frogdog1]

I follow the Oil Life Monitor, which works in two ways:

- Time. The counter ticks down 1.97% each week, even if the car is sitting. This is to ensure the owner is reminded of an oil change once a year, with an anticipated 10,000 mi / 16,000 km service interval

- Operation. Given driving duration, RPM, engine temperature, etc., the algorithm determines the effects on the oil and adjusts the OLM accordingly

Time is the catch-all. No matter how driven, the OLM will expire in one year.

I often lose about 30% on the OLM while storing Skye in the Winter.

I look at upcoming storage and determine how much the OLM will tick down while sitting. If the OLM will expire while in storage, I change the oil before. If the OLM will expire after, I have the option of waiting.

In the first year of taking receipt of the car, I got to 1000 mi / 1600 km just as Winter was approaching. I intended to change mine a bit later. The OLM was not going to expire while sitting. And in my mind, whatever chemical processes and reactions occurring stop with the engine being off.

I did change the oil the next Spring, one or two months after leaving storage. Oil analysis showed nominal results. There was no significant impact to holding the car with "used" oil in the crankcase.

New oil: means what you think it does.
Used oil: oil which has seen the inside of an engine and used for it's intended purpose.
Waste oil: oil which has often been co-mingled with other substances (brake fluid, coolant, etc.)

^ Those are generic descriptions. Each state or county might have their own definitions.

[Edit, reset the OLM after the change. If a dealer or shop job, confirm they reset the OLM, or reset yourself afterwards.]

As to the Stabil, I use it. It's cheap insurance. Some point to winter blends and an increase in Ethanol concentrations, the increase in Ethanol attracting more moisture. I put a bottle of Stabil in, top off the tank. The drive home is enough time for it to work itself through the fuel system.

I've been using full synthetic since the first oil change. A blend oil with some conventional and some synthetic is fine. It meets the standard. Millions of engines are using Motorcraft blend or equivalent without an issue. But I use full synthetics for two reasons: 1) I do feel over the long term they provide advantages in better performance, lessened wear and lessened deposits and 2) full synthetics were designed for a specific purpose, whereas conventional or blend is more from convenience (I needed a lubricant, and it just so happens I can use this).

-----------------An cut-and-paste from an earlier post--------------------

If you have Summer tires, be mindful of the temperature in the storage location.

If the garage temps will be approaching 40 F / 4 C or colder, it'd be a good idea to take the wheels off and stow inside. I wouldn't be to concerned about an occasional one-off, but cycling in and out of that temperature range, it's something I'd rather not do.

If these temps are seen, let the tire come up to at least 50 F / 10 C or hotter, 24 hours continuous, before rolling the tire or moving the vehicle.

- If any maintenance will be due during storage, lean forward and accomplish early

- Full detailing, inside and out

- One bottle of Stabil* and a full tank of gas

- Air tires up to 40 psi / 2.75 bar

- Park in garage, chock wheels

- Car left in neutral

- Parking brake NOT engaged

- Battery tender attached

- Car covered

- Lock vehicle

- Engine will not spin again until the cover is removed and the vehicle is driven

Once a month or so, I'll inspect the vehicle. Cover comes partially off. Using a torch, I'll review the interior, under hood and under car.

* To pour in the Stabil, you'll need the small white funnel from the trunk, or a similar funnel from the parts store.

Coming out of storage:

- Disconnect the battery tender

- De-pressurize tires

- Drive, one hour, continuous. The first drive is something of a trial. All I'm doing is function testing, checking for weird noises, leaks, smells, letting everything move around well. I will encounter some minor flat-spotting, for about the first 15 minutes or so. After this initial drive, it's like nothing ever happened and I drive like I normally would

For those concerned about mice:

- Remove all sources of food from the immediate area

- Remove all materials which could become bedding

- De-clutter the storage area

- Mice do not like strong and intense smells of some kinds. Many use mints or mint oils, at the tires, under hood and sometimes inside the cabin. Others report success with scented dryer sheets

- Depending on the exhaust system, insert steel wool in the exhaust tip openings

- Inspect the area and vehicle often. When you do, make noise and disrupt things. Make the area unwelcoming. Leave lights on. Cycle lights on/off over time

- Set traps throughout the area. Peanut butter or peanut butter crackers seem to be a favorite

- Check outside, the permitter of the home or storage location. Look for signs of varmint activity

- If you use any of the high frequency devices, keep them powered at all times and move them often

@Skye why no parking brake when up for storage? Also, do you use your parking brake (ebrake) when, say parked in your garage or around town to keep the transmission off the pawl if you have an automatic?

 

[AZ_Ryan]

@Skye why no parking brake when up for storage? Also, do you use your parking brake (ebrake) when, say parked in your garage or around town to keep the transmission off the pawl if you have an automatic?

Because in moist climates your pads and rotors can rust together. Besides there is no need to use a parking brake on a level surface like a garage. It's just more wear and tear on the parking brake.

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