Washing Procedure?

[Redback]

Soak car with water, spray off any stuck-on gunk.
Wash with Turtle Wax Ceramic wash and a microfibre mitt.
Always double-bucket... mitt gets rinsed in a separate bucket of clean water with a grit guard after each application before being dipped back into suds bucket.
Thoroughly rinse with water.
Keep entire vehicle dripping with water to prevent spots occurring.
Wash wheels last with remaining suds.
Final rinse of entire vehicle.
Apply Turtle Wax Graphene Flex Wax to wet vehicle one panel at a time and chammy dry with waffle microfibre.
Final wipe down with damp microfibre to smooth out wax.
Quick buff with dry microfibre.
Takes me about an hour.

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[tankcj]

Go with a DI system. It makes washing your vehicles sooo much easier.

 

[MAT1955]

@roadpilot ..... agreed that detail shops have specialized pressure washers but that's not the conversation - as many comments on this forum and others clearly indicate that owners are using high pressure washers in commercial car wash bays and home hardware versions - both of which are deadly to a vehicle's paint...... and I thought this was such a simple concept: Wash your car with a low pressure water stream, hand dry it with microfiber cloths then if you wish, wax it. Simple right? I guess not. Then there was the idea to use a leaf blower. Why? To blow dirt on the car's surface that you will still have to hand dry and now likely end up sanding your paint with. What has any of this have to do with driving at 80 mph? Do you drive at 80 mph then stop and hand dry your dusty car - obviously not. We are all trying to give each other the best advice we can on these forums as we all love cars. Of course there will be different opinions and different ways that we like - forum members get to read and choose. That IMO is the strength of this site.

 

[20ducks]

Some here know and some don't have a clue.

 

[smurfslayer]

I do have access to reverse osmosis filtered water, which I normally use for brewing, but, I could easily crank out enough to wash the car. I’ve heard the R/O water doesn’t spot or is less susceptible to spotting. I’ve been meaning to try it, but shoving the car outside while it rains is a bunch easier.

 

[dusman59]

I just do a final rinse with a couple of gallons of distilled water. Use a sprinkler can. Here in AZ the water is super hard. Most people have an RO system for drinking or have to buy bottled. The water out of the tap will mess up faucets without a softener.

 

[MCS]

My process using an ACTIVE 2.0 + 2x separate foam cannons + 3x Spray Bottles + a few different types of rags.

Step 1: Rinse wheel, that I am about to work on, using 40 degree 5.0 pressure washer nozzle.
Step 2: FOAM CANNON Brake Buster on wheel (try not to get on body)
Step 3: Use various brushes and a special wash mitt as well as a spray bottle of brake buster
Step 3: Rinse
Step 4. Repeat for the other 3 wheels
Step 5: Rinse full car now using that same 5.0 nozzle
Step 5: FOAM CANNON CarPro RESET (120ml RESET + 800ml water) on full car
Step 6. Start prepping my wash and rinse buckets, grit guards etc, while the soap dwells
Step 7: Hand wash using wash mitt, and the 2 bucket method, flipping mitt every half panel.
Step 8: Rinse whole car
Step 9: Ego 650 Leaf Blower as well as your drying towel of choice
Step 10: Apply Armor Detail Amplify drying aid on the car with recommended method
Step 11: CarPro PERL for the tire dressing (for now, but going to try some OG stuff soon)
Step 12: Stoners Invisible Glass on the windows

NOTES:
Foam Cannon 1 = Brake Buster (100% - Don't dilute but wash cannon once done)
Foam Cannon 2 = CarPro RESET (800ml water + 120ml of CarPro RESET)
Spray Bottle 1 = Armor Detail Amplify SiO2 (100% - Don't dilute)
Spray Bottle 2 = CarPro PERL (800ml CarPro PERL + 120ml water)
Spray Bottle 3 = Stoners Invisible Glass (100% - Don't dilute)

I will be adding some BILT HAMBER ATOM-MAC for my rotors in the spring.

 

[HeyMoe!]

There's already a good amount of sound advice already posted. The key is getting the car clean and dry without inducing swirl marks in the car's finish. I do use a foam gun, two buckets, and a soft sponge I trust. Rather than wiping dry, I have enough microfiber drying towels that I can simply lay them on the hood, roof, and trunk to soak up the water. I blot off the water on the sides with other towels. I hate to rub while drying. Though, every painted surface is different. I had a white BMW that had hard paint. I now have a blue Bimmer that swirls if I look at it. One thing that has helped me....after I'm done washing, I take the nozzle off my hose, and rinse off the car with low water pressure. It helps the water sheet off the car, leaving less water on the car to dry off.

 

[swamprat7953]

Wash early in the morning or when the sun clears my driveway. Never wash dark rides in direct sunlight or right after driving.

Wheels / wheel wells- separate bucket using Adams car wash, using IK sprayer to foam and misc soft brushes / wheel mitt for rims.

Really dirty rims gyeon rim cleaner.

Tires - detail factory tire brush and retyre by carpro.

Wheel wells - any apc and stiff brush. Fiber covered wheel wells dollar store bottle brush.

Rinse grill , foam and brush with detail factory soft brush.

Rinse and foam lowest 6-8” of body and use waffle weave microfiber ( using 4-6 towels) to clean.

Rinse body, foam ( Adams car wash) using either foam canon or IK foam pro sprayer , let dwell, rinse and foam again. 2 bucket wash / grit guard , rag company wash mitt and using gyeon bathe +. Start at the top, working down and finish with washing front and rear of the car.

Using metropolitan vacuum company’s master blaster to dry.

Wipe door jams, trunk jams hood jams and underside of the hood.

Dress tires with Kamikaze tire dressing.

Set up- wash process and clean up takes roughly 2 1/2 - 3 hours.

 

[20ducks]

The Master Blaster will help immensely.
https://www.amazon.com/INTRODUCED-Master-Blaster-Revolution-MB-3CDSWB-30/dp/B00UVUTP2S

I use this one:https://www.amazon.com/Metro-MB-3CD...525-472e-a7d9-2c31601bc69a&pd_rd_i=B07T7LFC2Q

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