DFB5.0
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While I have been detailing cars in some form or another since I was all of 14 years old, so about 24 years, I’m relatively new to rinse-less and waterless washing. While I’ve sampled over 45 different car wash soaps during those 24 years, I’ve only used about 11 rinse-less and waterless products to date. I also have a very low threshold as to when I feel comfortable using rinse-less. But after much trial and error, rinse-less is now an important part of my detailing skill set.
While I certainly knew about these wash methods, I was never comfortable using them on my cars. I was definitely of the opinion that using lots of soap and lots of water was the only safe way of cleaning my cars. And in some cases, that is true, I personally would not even entertain the idea of rinse-less washing a muddy or even a winter driven daily driver.
But for a garage queen that never gets truly dirty, like mine lol, a rinse-less wash is more than acceptable. In this case, you will save a lot of time setting up your buckets and wash media, setting up your hose or pressure washer, and then packing it all up at the end. It took me a very long time to trust rinse-less washing, so if someone as fastidious as me can be confident using rinse-less, then so can you.
What I love about rinse-less wash products is the versatility. In addition to rinse-less washing, I’m using these products as a detail spray, waterless washing of door jambs and engine bays, interior quick detailer, drying aid and windscreen washer additive. Of course, you can also use these products as a clay lubricant, glass cleaner, to soften water, as a pad cleaner, and a compound residue remover.
But before I go any further, while the terms "rinse-less" and "water-less" might sound like the same thing, there not one and the same........................
Waterless Washing – this method is the least safe of all car washing methods and best reserved for dusty cars only. In this case, no bucket and no water are used at all, the washing and lubrication is supplied buy a singular product. This is a spray and wipe action, and best done with plenty of product and plenty of fresh towels. Most of these products are quick detailers, some with additional lubrication and emulsifiers, however rinse-less wash concentrates can be mixed at a waterless dilution ration.
Rinse-less Washing – this method does indeed involve water and a bucket, the difference here to using soap is that no final rinse is performed, hence “rinse-less”. This method is safer than waterless, and in some cases can be safer than a normal two-bucket wash method………………more on that later. Rinse-less products are sold in concentrate form, which are then diluted into a bucket and spray bottle, making them very economical.
For this post, I’m going to concentrate on rinse-less washing as there is more to understand in terms of technique compared to a spray and wipe waterless process.
Rinse-less Wash Product Types
Rinse-less wash products are designed to soften and break down surface contamination while providing sufficient lubrication for safe and effective removal. By and large, there are two types of rinse-less wash concentrates –
Surfactant based – these products are similar in concept to a soap, generally without the foaming agents. These products tend to feel “stickier” across the paint and seem to offer slightly better cleaning ability. There is also suggestion that they don’t “leave anything behind” after use, as in a polymer or wax. McKee’s N-914, Bowden’s Dry Spell and DIY Detail Rinse-less Wash are examples of surfactant-based products.
Polymer based – these products use polymers to emulsify and encapsulate contamination, while providing a slick and lubricious barrier between the paint and dirt itself. Polymer products often feel slicker to use and leave a glossier end result. It’s that last point that some don’t like, as in leaving behind a polymer, in theory masking the wax/sealant/coating underneath. I don’t subscribe to that, and even if they do leave something behind, it’s way less than using a drying aid for example.
Rinse-less Wash Technique
There are a few different variations in rinse-less wash methods, so I will cover the two that I use.
Multiple Towel / Garry Dean Method –
This method uses multiple towels that are soaked in a bucket of rinse-less wash solution. As each towel is used, it never re-enters the bucket, ensuring that you don’t contaminate the wash solution. This is the process –
1/ Mix up your wash solution in a bucket.
2/ Fill a sprayer for the pre-soak, by either pinching some from the bucket or by mixing up a separate dilution. (Some products have separate dilutions for pre-soak and wash solutions, some use the same for both)
3/ Add your towels to the bucket to soak. How many you use will depend on the size of the car, for a Mustang you would need about 6 towels, a Falcon perhaps 8 towels, a single cab Ranger needs only about 4 towels. (More on towel choice later on)
4/Working in sections or the whole car, apply the pre-soak using your sprayer. Be generous, being sure to thoroughly soak any bug, bird or tree deposits.
5/Remove a towel from the bucket and squeeze until just dripping. Fold the towel in half, then in half again to effectively create eight different sides.
6/Working in straight lines, gently wipe across the panel. Inspect the towel and flip to a fresh side of the towel as needed. Once each side of the towel has been used, put it aside and grab another from the bucket.
You can do the above panel by panel, drying each panel as you finish. Otherwise, wash each section and then dry the whole car afterwards.
7/ You will need a largish drying towel to remove the remaining wash solution, which I use in the drop and drag method, followed by a final wipe using a drying aid and a secondary towel. You can also use your blower if desired.
8/You can then repeat the same process for the wheel face. I would be sure to use a different set of towels for this.
Variation – if the car is dustier than you would like, wheels in particular, you can actually pre-rinse the car with a hose before applying the pre-soak. If your car is coated, this will end up removing the bulk of the dust, which the rinse-less collecting the remaining and providing a streak free finish.
Single Wash Media Method –
The difference here is that one wash pad/mitt/sponge is used to wash the car, much like a regular soap and bucket wash. Unlike the Garry Dean method, you do end up re-introducing the wash media to the bucket, so be sure to have a grit guard installed. This method is quicker, but somewhat less safe. The basic procedure mimics the above –
1/ Mix up your wash solution in a bucket.
2/ Fill a sprayer for the pre-soak.
3/Add you wash mitt/pad/sponge to the bucket to soak.
4/Working in sections or the whole car, apply the pre-soak using your sprayer. Again, paying attention to any bug, bird or tree deposits.
5/Remove mitt/pad/sponge from the bucket and squeeze until just dripping.
6/Working in straight lines, gently wipe across the panel. Flip and rinse in the bucket often.
Again, work panel by panel, drying each panel as you finish. Otherwise, wash each section and then dry the whole car afterwards.
7/Use a large drying towel to remove the remaining wash solution, which I use in the drop and drag method, followed by a final wipe using a drying aid and a secondary towel. You can also use your blower if desired.
8/For wheels, I revert to the multiple towel method to avoid contaminating my good wash sponge.
Again, you can pre-rinse the car if needed.
More to follow -
Over the following posts, I will cover some key product options in the water-less and rinse-less sector.
While I certainly knew about these wash methods, I was never comfortable using them on my cars. I was definitely of the opinion that using lots of soap and lots of water was the only safe way of cleaning my cars. And in some cases, that is true, I personally would not even entertain the idea of rinse-less washing a muddy or even a winter driven daily driver.
But for a garage queen that never gets truly dirty, like mine lol, a rinse-less wash is more than acceptable. In this case, you will save a lot of time setting up your buckets and wash media, setting up your hose or pressure washer, and then packing it all up at the end. It took me a very long time to trust rinse-less washing, so if someone as fastidious as me can be confident using rinse-less, then so can you.
What I love about rinse-less wash products is the versatility. In addition to rinse-less washing, I’m using these products as a detail spray, waterless washing of door jambs and engine bays, interior quick detailer, drying aid and windscreen washer additive. Of course, you can also use these products as a clay lubricant, glass cleaner, to soften water, as a pad cleaner, and a compound residue remover.
But before I go any further, while the terms "rinse-less" and "water-less" might sound like the same thing, there not one and the same........................
Waterless Washing – this method is the least safe of all car washing methods and best reserved for dusty cars only. In this case, no bucket and no water are used at all, the washing and lubrication is supplied buy a singular product. This is a spray and wipe action, and best done with plenty of product and plenty of fresh towels. Most of these products are quick detailers, some with additional lubrication and emulsifiers, however rinse-less wash concentrates can be mixed at a waterless dilution ration.
Rinse-less Washing – this method does indeed involve water and a bucket, the difference here to using soap is that no final rinse is performed, hence “rinse-less”. This method is safer than waterless, and in some cases can be safer than a normal two-bucket wash method………………more on that later. Rinse-less products are sold in concentrate form, which are then diluted into a bucket and spray bottle, making them very economical.
For this post, I’m going to concentrate on rinse-less washing as there is more to understand in terms of technique compared to a spray and wipe waterless process.
Rinse-less Wash Product Types
Rinse-less wash products are designed to soften and break down surface contamination while providing sufficient lubrication for safe and effective removal. By and large, there are two types of rinse-less wash concentrates –
Surfactant based – these products are similar in concept to a soap, generally without the foaming agents. These products tend to feel “stickier” across the paint and seem to offer slightly better cleaning ability. There is also suggestion that they don’t “leave anything behind” after use, as in a polymer or wax. McKee’s N-914, Bowden’s Dry Spell and DIY Detail Rinse-less Wash are examples of surfactant-based products.
Polymer based – these products use polymers to emulsify and encapsulate contamination, while providing a slick and lubricious barrier between the paint and dirt itself. Polymer products often feel slicker to use and leave a glossier end result. It’s that last point that some don’t like, as in leaving behind a polymer, in theory masking the wax/sealant/coating underneath. I don’t subscribe to that, and even if they do leave something behind, it’s way less than using a drying aid for example.
Rinse-less Wash Technique
There are a few different variations in rinse-less wash methods, so I will cover the two that I use.
Multiple Towel / Garry Dean Method –
This method uses multiple towels that are soaked in a bucket of rinse-less wash solution. As each towel is used, it never re-enters the bucket, ensuring that you don’t contaminate the wash solution. This is the process –
1/ Mix up your wash solution in a bucket.
2/ Fill a sprayer for the pre-soak, by either pinching some from the bucket or by mixing up a separate dilution. (Some products have separate dilutions for pre-soak and wash solutions, some use the same for both)
3/ Add your towels to the bucket to soak. How many you use will depend on the size of the car, for a Mustang you would need about 6 towels, a Falcon perhaps 8 towels, a single cab Ranger needs only about 4 towels. (More on towel choice later on)
4/Working in sections or the whole car, apply the pre-soak using your sprayer. Be generous, being sure to thoroughly soak any bug, bird or tree deposits.
5/Remove a towel from the bucket and squeeze until just dripping. Fold the towel in half, then in half again to effectively create eight different sides.
6/Working in straight lines, gently wipe across the panel. Inspect the towel and flip to a fresh side of the towel as needed. Once each side of the towel has been used, put it aside and grab another from the bucket.
You can do the above panel by panel, drying each panel as you finish. Otherwise, wash each section and then dry the whole car afterwards.
7/ You will need a largish drying towel to remove the remaining wash solution, which I use in the drop and drag method, followed by a final wipe using a drying aid and a secondary towel. You can also use your blower if desired.
8/You can then repeat the same process for the wheel face. I would be sure to use a different set of towels for this.
Variation – if the car is dustier than you would like, wheels in particular, you can actually pre-rinse the car with a hose before applying the pre-soak. If your car is coated, this will end up removing the bulk of the dust, which the rinse-less collecting the remaining and providing a streak free finish.
Single Wash Media Method –
The difference here is that one wash pad/mitt/sponge is used to wash the car, much like a regular soap and bucket wash. Unlike the Garry Dean method, you do end up re-introducing the wash media to the bucket, so be sure to have a grit guard installed. This method is quicker, but somewhat less safe. The basic procedure mimics the above –
1/ Mix up your wash solution in a bucket.
2/ Fill a sprayer for the pre-soak.
3/Add you wash mitt/pad/sponge to the bucket to soak.
4/Working in sections or the whole car, apply the pre-soak using your sprayer. Again, paying attention to any bug, bird or tree deposits.
5/Remove mitt/pad/sponge from the bucket and squeeze until just dripping.
6/Working in straight lines, gently wipe across the panel. Flip and rinse in the bucket often.
Again, work panel by panel, drying each panel as you finish. Otherwise, wash each section and then dry the whole car afterwards.
7/Use a large drying towel to remove the remaining wash solution, which I use in the drop and drag method, followed by a final wipe using a drying aid and a secondary towel. You can also use your blower if desired.
8/For wheels, I revert to the multiple towel method to avoid contaminating my good wash sponge.
Again, you can pre-rinse the car if needed.
More to follow -
Over the following posts, I will cover some key product options in the water-less and rinse-less sector.
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