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Using idatalink/Rockford Fosgate DSR1 with 2024 Mustang 9 Speaker System

gwoutrider

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I am getting ready to do my upgrade of the existing factory 9 speaker system. I am keeping the existing head unit and replacing everything after that. I know there is an excellent writeup using the A2B interface ( Red Rocket’s Full S650 Mustang Stereo Project (9 Speakers) | Mustang7G - 2024+ S650 Mustang Forum (Dark Horse, GT, EcoBoost, GT500, GT350, Mach 1) ), but I am wondering if it's possible using just the idatalink/Rockford Fosgate DSR1. I believe the iDatalink HRN-AR-FO3 Harness should plug in directly to the factory amp inputs, but I would be missing the center and tweeter signals. So a couple of questions about this:
1 - Is the input signal pure in the sense that it is full range? I know you need to flash to remove Active Noise Control
2 - Assuming I disconnect the center and tweeters, will I lose door chime and BT phone call functions since I heard both only go through the center speaker?
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Andy Feuer

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I am getting ready to do my upgrade of the existing factory 9 speaker system. I am keeping the existing head unit and replacing everything after that. I know there is an excellent writeup using the A2B interface ( Red Rocket’s Full S650 Mustang Stereo Project (9 Speakers) | Mustang7G - 2024+ S650 Mustang Forum (Dark Horse, GT, EcoBoost, GT500, GT350, Mach 1) ), but I am wondering if it's possible using just the idatalink/Rockford Fosgate DSR1. I believe the iDatalink HRN-AR-FO3 Harness should plug in directly to the factory amp inputs, but I would be missing the center and tweeter signals. So a couple of questions about this:
1 - Is the input signal pure in the sense that it is full range? I know you need to flash to remove Active Noise Control
2 - Assuming I disconnect the center and tweeters, will I lose door chime and BT phone call functions since I heard both only go through the center speaker?
Use the Mav TV Zen A2B module. The DSR1 is dated
 

Fruitstang

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I used the PAC Audio AmpPRO AP4-FD31. Seems to be similar to the Mav TV, only half the price.
True plug & play (driver side in trunk) with necessary harness included.
This provides clean 6 channel cinch preouts + remote out and speaker cables for front woofers, mids, center, rears and main sub, meaning you don't have to run new cables to all of these speakers (front tweeters are different, see below).
And all bad factory stuff like bass roll off and other active equalizing is completely bypassed.
Fader, balance etc. will work.
It has also an optical digital out, but then Fader will not work.
Only thing you need to do is either connect the A pillar tweeters with a separate cable to the mids in the doors, or route the new cables to the rear where you place the new amp.

I kept the original speakers and use an 8 channel DSP-Amp from Helix and it's a day and night difference.

Sub is the only speaker I replaced.
 

Drewmandoo

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Red Rocket has a good write up, but I too went with the AMP Pro AP4. I wired mine up to a 6ch DSP amp that has sub control and output to a separate sub amp. I had the factory B&O with Sub but I gutted that out. I also removed the center channel speaker, as not much out there will actually use the center channel in music.
you do lose SOME chimes and some change, but I get door chimes and rear camera alerts
Run the tweeter cables from the center console, i shared some photos on another thread and it was suppppper easy but of course, gotta pull everything out lol. Dark Horse B&O Sound System Upgrade | Page 2 | Mustang7G - 2024+ S650 Mustang Forum (Dark Horse, GT, EcoBoost, GT500, GT350, Mach 1) for pictures :)
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