Rubbing only on one side after lowering springs and new tire/wheels

[Carter1776]

I’m sure some of you have seen earlier today I put on my Velgen VF10s 20x10 on with 285/35R20s (F) and paired with Steeda Progressive Lowering Springs, and while I have 0 rub turning the wheel lock out to lock out, I do get rub when cornering but only on the drivers side front. I can’t get any rubbing to happen on the passenger side, but the slightest cornering on the drivers side and I get tire rub on what sounds like the wheel well liner. Now I haven’t gotten an alignment but does this sound like something an alignment will fix? Has anyone else experience this? Just interesting I can’t get the passenger side to do it. If it’s something that I can’t fix or alignment won’t fix, I’ll have to put the stock performance pack suspension back on, which I really don’t want to do because I love the look I have going now.

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[erocker]

It needs an alignment. It also might need a subframe alignment.

 

[Carter1776]

It needs an alignment. It also might need a subframe alignment.

That’s what I figured mostly due to the fact it won’t do it on the passenger side, so Wednesdays morning it goes to ford for the alignment, I’ll ask them if they see any rubbing when they have it on the lift as well.

 

[krisk]

I’m sure some of you have seen earlier today I put on my Velgen VF10s 20x10 on with 285/35R20s (F) and paired with Steeda Progressive Lowering Springs, and while I have 0 rub turning the wheel lock out to lock out, I do get rub when cornering but only on the drivers side front. I can’t get any rubbing to happen on the passenger side, but the slightest cornering on the drivers side and I get tire rub on what sounds like the wheel well liner. Now I haven’t gotten an alignment but does this sound like something an alignment will fix? Has anyone else experience this? Just interesting I can’t get the passenger side to do it. If it’s something that I can’t fix or alignment won’t fix, I’ll have to put the stock performance pack suspension back on, which I really don’t want to do because I love the look I have going now.

An alignment should fix it provided the camber has enough adjustment available. Any time you change the springs the car needs an alignment. Lowering gives more negative camber, so the top of the wheel is tilted further into the wheel well. I’ve always added camber plates when lowering to give more adjustment. Camber bolts are a cheaper option if just using for daily driving.

Edit: After thinking about it, I realize my statement about negative camber increasing from lowering is probably incorrect. Looking at the suspension geometry I don’t know that lowering changes the camber at all.

 

[Carter1776]

An alignment should fix it provided the camber has enough adjustment available. Any time you change the springs the car needs an alignment. Lowering gives more negative camber, so the top of the wheel is tilted further into the wheel well. I’ve always added camber plates when lowering to give more adjustment. Camber bolts are a cheaper option if just using for daily driving.

i have a set of steeda camber bolts im taking with me for the alignment just in case they are needed. really hoping im not a special case where an alignment wont fix it because there are plenty of others running the identical setup with no issues at all.

 

[Mazman]

Did you re-index/"clock the bushings"

this should always be done irrespective of car when lowering.
On the Mustang unfortunately the torque figures on some of the bolts with bushings are quite high and not easily accessible even on a four post lift :S

In general one needs/has to re-index the bushings(where there are rubber bushings in the suspension geometry). When you lower the car the bushings bind to get the into their relaxed state all bolts when there is load on the wheels needs to be loosend up so that the tension on the bushings are released with the load of the car on the wheels the bolts/nuts can be torqued to spec

@tj@steeda can give some input on this as well.

 

[Carter1776]

Did you re-index/"clock the bushings"

this should always be done irrespective of car when lowering.
On the Mustang unfortunately the torque figures on some of the bolts with bushings are quite high and not easily accessible even on a four post lift :S

I don't believe I messed with anything that had bushings, if that's what you mean, everything was tightened back to spec.

Upon further inspection I have a slight atlas blue streak on the edge of my sidewall so I believe I have too much positive camber causing the tire to touch the inner fender, taking a tiny bit of paint off. I'm going to get it aligned before I drive anymore on it, hopefully I'm right and a small adjustment will solve jt. I hit some hard left corners to try and get the passenger side to mimic and it won't, but I can also fit my fingers in between the tire and wheel well better on the passenger side.

 

[Mazman]

I don't believe I messed with anything that had bushings, if that's what you mean, everything was tightened back to spec.

Upon further inspection I have a slight atlas blue streak on the edge of my sidewall so I believe I have too much positive camber causing the tire to touch the inner fender, taking a tiny bit of paint off. I'm going to get it aligned before I drive anymore on it, hopefully I'm right and a small adjustment will solve jt. I hit some hard left corners to try and get the passenger side to mimic and it won't, but I can also fit my fingers in between the tire and wheel well better on the passenger side.

It's not that you mess with thing having bushings, your suspension geometry change when lowering causing the the bushings to bind.

Not saying that that is the only thing that can cause it but in general where you have connections points in the suspension having rubber bushing the "clocking" should be done.

Also an alignment is in general always needed after lowering a car.

 

[Carter1776]

It's not that you mess with thing having bushings, your suspension geometry change when lowering causing the the bushings to bind.

Not saying that that is the only thing that can cause it but in general where you have connections points in the suspension having rubber bushing the "clocking" should be done.

Also an alignment is in general always needed after lowering a car.

I understand ya now.

I'm going to start with the alignment and hope that's it.

 

[Mazman]

I understand ya now.

I'm going to start with the alignment and hope that's it.

Yeah alignment is a good start!
Just to note if you will be clocking the bushings that should be done before the alignment . A good shop should be able to help you out with this

Also on the S550/650 as the re-subframe is lowered that in itself would require an alignment. Also one thing to recommend are the subframe alignment sleeves for the rear subframe while you are at it

 

[Carter1776]

Yeah alignment is a good start!
Just to note if you will be clocking the bushings that should be done before the alignment . A good shop should be able to help you out with this

Also on the S550/650 as the re-subframe is lowered that in itself would require an alignment. Also one thing to recommend are the subframe alignment sleeves for the rear subframe while you are at it

I'm going to get rear subframe alignment sleeves in the future or at my next tire change. I'll update the thread as soon as I get the alignment done tomorrow and have a chance to drive it, hopefully I won't have to hunt for another solution.

 

[RyanB3239]

Getting closer Velgen rims and tires on his way but where is my car? I’m that luck guy with that a/c problem thats been in the shop close to 3 glorious weeks. I got 315/30/20 and 275/35/20 we got the kicks but we don’t have the ride lol life is too short. Keep smiling keep laughing cheers.

 

[RyanB3239]

I'm going to get rear subframe alignment sleeves in the future or at my next tire change. I'll update the thread as soon as I get the alignment done tomorrow and have a chance to drive it, hopefully I won't have to hunt for another solution.

any updates on your rubbing issues?

 

[Carter1776]

any updates on your rubbing issues?

The 275s improved if not fully resolved the rub, only when the front suspension is fully compressed does it slightly rub, so in the end 285/35R20s were too big for my setup.

 

[RyanB3239]

The 275s improved if not fully resolved the rub, only when the front suspension is fully compressed does it slightly rub, so in the end 285/35R20s were too big for my setup.

I wish I can install this rims already. I’m anxious if I’m gonna have the same rubbing issues.. the only way I’m gonna find out if I get my car back I haven’t seen my car going in three weeks now it’s still in the shop. Still sitting on 326 miles they gave me a loaner car patiently waiting they receive all the electronic relay and electronic box that needs to be replaced for that A/C but no phone today that means one thing they probably still working on it..

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