Nitrous practicality and reliability

[hayden5.0]

I've been looking into a wet Nitrous system and I don't know much about the overall reliability and practicality of using one. Does anyone have any insights?

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[Q6543]

It’s neither reliable nor practical, I’ve ran several nitrous systems in the past, always double checking, lines, solenoids, pressures, refills etc..

It 100% works and is very safe when used with the correct fuels, plugs etc… but you’re gonna need to stay on top of everything.

 

[drive_55_not]

I guess it depends on your definition of 'practical' ... Track only use it's practical, Street use, not so much. Plus, Nitrous has gotten Expensive over the last few years, it's $7lb around me, luckily it's only 7miles to the shop for the refill.

I installed a single nozzle in intake tube on my car, But I already had all the nitrous stuff laying around, along with 60lbs of nitrous in several bottles, so all I needed was a few fittings to install it.

I'm spraying a 100shot [ 52N / 26F jet ], However, my logging shows the throttle bodies are closing down to less than 40% due to the extra oxygen so it's not advisable to use a nozzle or those new TB plates NX is offering for anything bigger, The direct port plates will be needed IMVHO.

And I'll caution you now, If you have the A10, It does NOT like being slammed with the extra HP nitrous hits it with. It'll skip and short shift gears all over in Auto mode.

I'm using a WINMAX controller and wired the solenoids to stage 1 and wired stage 2 as a shift light/buzzer.

I have a billet aluminum bottle bracket and mount it in the spare tire well, Ran the line down the drivers side cabin wiring harness run and out the OBD firewall gromet, need to pull the driver side fender liner to get to it, but it's easy to get out.

Other than that, high 9's should be easy to hit with some weight loss, DR's and manually shifting a 200shot.

I ran a 10.688s @127 last time out on the 100shot with the A10 short shifting 3rd and 6th @6800 and it shutdown on the 6tg gear short shift when it hit 7th about 100ft from the end. That was bringing the nitrous on @3500

S650 100shot


Eighth mile tracks are opening tomorrow around me so I'm going out and try for a 6.75xx.



.

 

[Alan Applegate]

I absolutely agree! In fact, unless you're OCD or anal-retentive about keeping track of the hardware and nitrous level, the end result will be a catastrophic engine failure! Luckily, I never had an engine failure, but all of the rest of the hardware was a disaster in-waiting! NOS (et. al.) warn users about maintenance issues, along with the all of the lawyer gobbledegook.

In defense of what I just stated... When it works, it works very well. For several years I used a puffer system on a turbo Lima engine with good results. Nothing like full turbo boost as 1,500 RPM!

 

[MCS]

I agree with both the gentlemen above.

Cautionary tale of a young man with, what was then, a fairly high horsepower car.

I had a 100 shot in a 1980 Z28 Camaro (4 speed) that had a 355 in it. Racing a Monte Carlo on Mothers Day about 300 years ago (seems that way) the motor let go on the QEW Hwy to Niagara Falls to visit Mom. Yes, I beat the Monte Carlo however I blew the motor out the oil pan and left an oil slick that the Exxon Valdez would have been envious of.

 

[Upacurb]

cliff notes- save up and get a Whipple....

 

[RLE55]

It’s neither reliable nor practical, I’ve ran several nitrous systems in the past, always double checking, lines, solenoids, pressures, refills etc..

It 100% works and is very safe when used with the correct fuels, plugs etc… but you’re gonna need to stay on top of everything.

Agree with above, and to add.......have it installed by a reputable performance shop that knows what they are doing. Fly by night installation and you'll be buying a new engine. Also this will kill your warranty.

 

[robvas]

No thanks on a car you can't even tune. Get a supercharger.

 

[hayden5.0]

It’s neither reliable nor practical, I’ve ran several nitrous systems in the past, always double checking, lines, solenoids, pressures, refills etc..

It 100% works and is very safe when used with the correct fuels, plugs etc… but you’re gonna need to stay on top of everything.

How safe is it in the motor?

 

[robvas]

How safe is it in the motor?

Haven't you ever watched Fast and the Furious?

 

[hayden5.0]

Haven't you ever watched Fast and the Furious?

Fair.

 

[Q6543]

How safe is it in the motor?

You are going to want to learn how to read plugs, I forgot that as well, on all my nitrous cars I was consistently pulling, chopping, reading porcelain, making sure spark was tolerable etc…

so again, it’s super safe if you know what you’re doing and sneak up on it…

you will definitely spend a lot of money keeping up with it all though.

now if you want to do a baby 50 shot on 110 octane race gas blindly … you probably can get away with it… but that’s not worth what you’ll spend.

 

[Paul's stable]

cliff notes- save up and get a Whipple....

That's what I did.

 

[CAYOTE]

I guess it depends on your definition of 'practical' ... Track only use it's practical, Street use, not so much. Plus, Nitrous has gotten Expensive over the last few years, it's $7lb around me, luckily it's only 7miles to the shop for the refill.

I installed a single nozzle in intake tube on my car, But I already had all the nitrous stuff laying around, along with 60lbs of nitrous in several bottles, so all I needed was a few fittings to install it.

I'm spraying a 100shot [ 52N / 26F jet ], However, my logging shows the throttle bodies are closing down to less than 40% due to the extra oxygen so it's not advisable to use a nozzle or those new TB plates NX is offering for anything bigger, The direct port plates will be needed IMVHO.

And I'll caution you now, If you have the A10, It does NOT like being slammed with the extra HP nitrous hits it with. It'll skip and short shift gears all over in Auto mode.

I'm using a WINMAX controller and wired the solenoids to stage 1 and wired stage 2 as a shift light/buzzer.

I have a billet aluminum bottle bracket and mount it in the spare tire well, Ran the line down the drivers side cabin wiring harness run and out the OBD firewall gromet, need to pull the driver side fender liner to get to it, but it's easy to get out.

Other than that, high 9's should be easy to hit with some weight loss, DR's and manually shifting a 200shot.

I ran a 10.688s @127 last time out on the 100shot with the A10 short shifting 3rd and 6th @6800 and it shutdown on the 6tg gear short shift when it hit 7th about 100ft from the end. That was bringing the nitrous on @3500

S650 100shot


Eighth mile tracks are opening tomorrow around me so I'm going out and try for a 6.75xx.



.

So what do you run on motor? I have a direct port plate kit with a standalone I’m about to install on my car. Gonna start with a 100 shot and see how it goes.

 

[drive_55_not]

So what do you run on motor? I have a direct port plate kit with a standalone I’m about to install on my car. Gonna start with a 100 shot and see how it goes.

Best has been 11.32 with 1/4 tank of E40. DA was negative 500ish.


3.15 rear, 275/40-17 Hoosier DR2, I'm using the 18x5 OEM spare rim with a Kumho 135/80-18 tire as the front runner. With Passenger and rear seat removed along with the optional spare/jack nets about 175lbs weight reduction.

Upping to a 125shot, I ran a 10.54, Started spraying at 2800, It skipped 2nd, short shifted 3rd @6600 and I tried manually shifting to 7th to avoid the 6800rpm 10R80 6th gear limiter but the tranny still shutdown due to an overspeed condition, All that cost me a a quarter second I'd guess.

The fluid level is good in my 10R but it does not like the extra power.

I'm coming up on 25,000miles so I'm going to change but I have doubts it'll help with the wonky shifting.

Even with tuning my 2018 Gen3 had the same wonky shifting issues on a 150shot ...

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