AZ_Ryan
Well-Known Member
Agreed. Turning of the motion sensors helps.I walk in the garage without my key, and the thing is still clicking and shit under the hood. Like there’s hamsters playing cards in there…lol.
Sponsored
Agreed. Turning of the motion sensors helps.I walk in the garage without my key, and the thing is still clicking and shit under the hood. Like there’s hamsters playing cards in there…lol.
So, if the OTA update fails, repeatedly are you saying that applying the module updates isn't a warranty covered repair?However, they will not simply spend hours/days applying module firmware updates that just happen to be available for your vehicle
From my experience, this is addressed on a case-by-case basis. The short answer is no......there is nothing (AFAIK) expressed on the warranty fine print that says an OTA failing repeatedly is covered under warranty. The dealer (or tech) would have to get creative to find a way to bill Ford for the "labor" associated with it.So, if the OTA update fails, repeatedly are you saying that applying the module updates isn't a warranty covered repair?
I guess the service dept. Told me 45 minutes to give themselves time to scratch their ass if needed.The window pinch issue would be a door module update which takes 2-3 minutes to flash per door. On the F150 forum, there was a problematic door module OTA that was bricking the door modules for many owners and I helped a few guys reflash it with FORScan. Those are very quick and easy to do.
I completely agree that these newer vehicles put huge strains on the 12v batteries. I can leabve my truck parked and locked for hours and when I walk past it, I hear modules and relays clicking and humming randomly under the hood.

You bet! Also....My wife's car kept giving motion sensor false alarms. It was annoying. Disabled it in both cars.Agreed. Turning of the motion sensors helps.
"Hamsters playing cards"The update was on a Lincoln for the recall for window pinching danger. They said it was OTA, so what you said sounds about right.
I walk in the garage without my key, and the thing is still clicking and shit under the hood. Like there’s hamsters playing cards in there…lol. These new cars are always doing something while parked, including transmitting to Ford Pass App.
Coming straight from my friend who is a tow truck driver who said he spends all day just jumping dead batteries on new cars, he said it’s not brand specific, but sure is attributed to the computer tech being more than the current batteries can handle.
I’m glad I have a garage and am able to use Battery Tenders on both cars. I don’t mind the 5 seconds it takes to hook them up.
As in from the vehicle? Volts while in accessory mode vs volts while engine on vs volts while driving (1500+ rpm)?Reporting back, I kept the car on a battery tender all day and this morning the update completed successfully. Thanks @rugedraw for the help!
is there anyway to check what the battery SoC is currently?
For anyone interested in monitoring these type of details, you can get a bluetooth battery monitor on ebay/amazon that will provide all these details in real time through an app on your phone.As in from the vehicle? Volts while in accessory mode vs volts while engine on vs volts while driving (1500+ rpm)?
No there is not.As in from the vehicle? Volts while in accessory mode vs volts while engine on vs volts while driving (1500+ rpm)?
While i more or less agree is it possible to surmise based on the reported volts via the built in gauge/display.No there is not.
I don't think you can guide yourself by this logic because there may be several things that trigger the charging system to turn on regardless of SoC; like having the a/c fan speed set to 5 or higher. There could be other factors where the BMS will trigger the charging of the 12v battery, as well. AFAIK, you would need a dedicated device to truly monitor these things as they happen.While i more or less agree is it possible to surmise based on the reported volts via the built in gauge/display.
as in, if you activate accessory mode and it shows 11.5 it would indicate low (flat) but if you start the engine (and alternator begins charging) it may report 14.5 (infers full charging - low battery?) and then while driving it drops to 14.0 or 13.5 and may even find it’s way to 12.5, would that indicate the state of charge is above 80%.
not trying to argue, just asking a question.
I did a voltage test on mine, and just looked up a table on Google to get a ballpark on the actual percentage.While i more or less agree is it possible to surmise based on the reported volts via the built in gauge/display.
as in, if you activate accessory mode and it shows 11.5 it would indicate low (flat) but if you start the engine (and alternator begins charging) it may report 14.5 (infers full charging - low battery?) and then while driving it drops to 14.0 or 13.5 and may even find it’s way to 12.5, would that indicate the state of charge is above 80%.
not trying to argue, just asking a question.
Yea, that info is based on whatever SoC the vehicle reported to the cloud the last time it was driven or the ignition was cycled on long enough for the vehicle to ping the mothership. They can see that in the PTS website. I have access to most of the stuff they have access to. It won't do it in real time, though.I did a voltage test on mine, and just looked up a table on Google to get a ballpark on the actual percentage.
Unfortunately there is nothing WE can access on the car that will give you percentage in real time. However, when I called Ford pass they were able to somehow look at the vehicle and tell me it was under 80%.![]()
Interesting. How did get access to that?Yea, that info is based on whatever SoC the vehicle reported to the cloud the last time it was driven or the ignition was cycled on long enough for the vehicle to ping the mothership. They can see that in the PTS website. I have access to most of the stuff they have access to. It won't do it in real time, though.
![]()