Having issues updating software

[klopklop]

@klopklop I got your message, but responding here for the sake of the info being out there. See below from your OTA dashboard in red. BMS data quality is fine, but the SoC is low at 56% and the capacity is also low at 23 out of 70 (assuming these cars come with an H6 size 12v battery). It is 100% failing due to poor battery specs. If you do not have a battery charger, I would recommend you drive the car for 20-30 minutes with the a/c fan speed set to at least 5 (this will trigger the charging system to charge the 12v battery constantly) and then try to manually install it when you park and the battery is charged up. If you do have a 12v charger, then charge your battery up to 100% and try again.

Edit: If your car is tuned, this update will wipe the tune and return it to stock.

Thank you so much for confirming the issue. I drive it almost daily on a 45 min roundtrip to pickup my child and I have tried the A/C on low temp and full blast method but it didn’t see to work still. I have ordered a trickle charger and will try with that now.

Last month I was out of the country for a month and started getting notifications on my ford pass app that the car is conserving battery and wont let me remote start.

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[DT-GT]

@rugedraw You are a great help to so many of us. Thank you!

Again this emphasizes the importance of a trickle charger. If I’m not going to drive my car for more than a week it goes on the CTEK trickle charger. That being said, the car will still go into battery-saver mode after two weeks even if on the charger.

 

[Starship Enterprise]

@rugedraw You are a great help to so many of us. Thank you!

Again this emphasizes the importance of a trickle charger. If I’m not going to drive my car for more than a week it goes on the CTEK trickle charger. That being said, the car will still go into battery-saver mode after two weeks even if on the charger.

It’s funny you said that, because the manual emphasizes to start the car at least once every 2 weeks if storing.

Also…RE: Updating. I’m not 100% sure, but I think even getting an OTA update at the dealer, they put the car on a trickle charger to make sure it goes through.

 

[DT-GT]

Agree. I do not start my Mustang (this one or previous) unless I can drive it and get everything warmed-up as I believe that to be hard on various components. And once snow arrives on my streets the ice is there for most of the winter, especially in the shaded areas. I live at 8,500 feet elevation.

It’s funny you said that, because the manual emphasizes to start the car at least once every 2 weeks if storing.

Also…RE: Updating. I’m not 100% sure, but I think even getting an OTA update at the dealer, they put the car on a trickle charger to make sure it goes through.

 

[rugedraw]

Thank you so much for confirming the issue. I drive it almost daily on a 45 min roundtrip to pickup my child and I have tried the A/C on low temp and full blast method but it didn’t see to work still. I have ordered a trickle charger and will try with that now.

Last month I was out of the country for a month and started getting notifications on my ford pass app that the car is conserving battery and wont let me remote start.

Maybe a bad battery then. Your car has a build date of August 2024, so the battery is barely a year old. If you drive the car that much, I see no reason why the battery would be so low in terms of charge/capacity.

It’s funny you said that, because the manual emphasizes to start the car at least once every 2 weeks if storing.

Also…RE: Updating. I’m not 100% sure, but I think even getting an OTA update at the dealer, they put the car on a trickle charger to make sure it goes through.

Dealer puts it on a power supply; not a trickle charger. In the case of the PCM, I would not even put it on a power supply because it literally takes 3-5 minutes to flash. When updating an IPMA (for example) that can take 1-3 hours to flash depending on the hardware, connecting the battery to a power supply is mandatory to prevent voltage from dropping and bricking the module. However, this particular update for the PCM is very quick and with FDRS, I would do it with the battery in its current state with zero worries. However, the OTA process will not make a judgement call like a tech would and if the battery is below spec, it will not allow the update to install.

 

[Starship Enterprise]

Makes sense…thanks for clarifying!

Every OTA update the dealer had to do on my wife’s Lincoln was a minimum of 45 minutes, once an update got hung up twice before taking, she was glad she dropped it off that day….lol.

 

[rugedraw]

Makes sense…thanks for clarifying!

Every OTA update the dealer had to do on my wife’s Lincoln was a minimum of 45 minutes, once an update got hung up twice before taking, she was glad she dropped it off that day….lol.

In my experience, there is only one module that takes 45 minutes to flash and that is the CMR (only on vehicles equipped with Bluecruise) if being updated using a Mongoose or VCM2 cable. Most dealers now have VCM3 cables that would flash that update at least 20 minutes faster than my Mongoose can. Most module updates take a few minutes to do.

Unless, they are updates done with a USB drive because it can take a while to download the files from Ford's servers which have download speeds equivalent to a 1997 56k dial-up modem. It's taken me an hour to download a 6GB APIM update from Ford.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

Maybe a bad battery then. Your car has a build date of August 2024, so the battery is barely a year old. If you drive the car that much, I see no reason why the battery would be so low in terms of charge/capacity.



Dealer puts it on a power supply; not a trickle charger. In the case of the PCM, I would not even put it on a power supply because it literally takes 3-5 minutes to flash. When updating an IPMA (for example) that can take 1-3 hours to flash depending on the hardware, connecting the battery to a power supply is mandatory to prevent voltage from dropping and bricking the module. However, this particular update for the PCM is very quick and with FDRS, I would do it with the battery in its current state with zero worries. However, the OTA process will not make a judgement call like a tech would and if the battery is below spec, it will not allow the update to install.

I drive my car 5 days a week and had the same problem. The battery was about 70% and wouldn't complete the update. Once charged it updated fine. I had the battery checked and it was fine too. I think these things have a bad parasitic draw when off.

 

[rugedraw]

I drive my car 5 days a week and had the same problem. The battery was about 70% and wouldn't complete the update. Once charged it updated fine. I had the battery checked and it was fine too. I think these things have a bad parasitic draw when off.

I think the OEM batteries are garbage. I swapped out the Ford H6 battery in my truck for an Optima H7. Not sure if the battery tray on these vehicles can hold something bigger, but if it can, I would recommend to anyone that replaces their battery to go with something bigger and something not OEM.

 

[smurfslayer]

Unless, they are updates done with a USB drive because it can take a while to download the files from Ford's servers which have download speeds equivalent to a 1997 56k dial-up modem. It's taken me an hour to download a 6GB APIM update from Ford.

Oh man. I have felt that pain. It can be recreated by an overly intrusive and restrictive VPN client too.

I think the OEM batteries are garbage. I swapped out the Ford H6 battery in my truck from an Optima H7. Not sure if the battery tray on these vehicles can hold something bigger, but if it can, I would recommend to anyone that replaces their battery to go with something bigger and something not OEM.

I think some of them are, but as I've said before on here, my '01 Lightning battery lasted to '08. My '17 Raptor battery is still going strong and my Dark Horse has no such issues as described in this thread or the other threads out here. Which makes me bang the drum again- get these cars troubleshot and fixed.

This should not be happening and isn't to the majority of folks who rock the new Mustangs.

 

[Zig]

Oh man. I have felt that pain. It can be recreated by an overly intrusive and restrictive VPN client too.

… at 56k it’s approximately 6 minutes per meg

 

[Starship Enterprise]

In my experience, there is only one module that takes 45 minutes to flash and that is the CMR (only on vehicles equipped with Bluecruise) if being updated using a Mongoose or VCM2 cable. Most dealers now have VCM3 cables that would flash that update at least 20 minutes faster than my Mongoose can. Most module updates take a few minutes to do.

Unless, they are updates done with a USB drive because it can take a while to download the files from Ford's servers which have download speeds equivalent to a 1997 56k dial-up modem. It's taken me an hour to download a 6GB APIM update from Ford.

The update was on a Lincoln for the recall for window pinching danger. They said it was OTA, so what you said sounds about right.

I drive my car 5 days a week and had the same problem. The battery was about 70% and wouldn't complete the update. Once charged it updated fine. I had the battery checked and it was fine too. I think these things have a bad parasitic draw when off.

I walk in the garage without my key, and the thing is still clicking and shit under the hood. Like there’s hamsters playing cards in there…lol. These new cars are always doing something while parked, including transmitting to Ford Pass App.

I think the OEM batteries are garbage. I swapped out the Ford H6 battery in my truck for an Optima H7. Not sure if the battery tray on these vehicles can hold something bigger, but if it can, I would recommend to anyone that replaces their battery to go with something bigger and something not OEM.

Coming straight from my friend who is a tow truck driver who said he spends all day just jumping dead batteries on new cars, he said it’s not brand specific, but sure is attributed to the computer tech being more than the current batteries can handle.

I’m glad I have a garage and am able to use Battery Tenders on both cars. I don’t mind the 5 seconds it takes to hook them up.

 

[rugedraw]

The update was on a Lincoln for the recall for window pinching danger. They said it was OTA, so what you said sounds about right.



I walk in the garage without my key, and the thing is still clicking and shit under the hood. Like there’s hamsters playing cards in there…lol. These new cars are always doing something while parked, including transmitting to Ford Pass App.



Coming straight from my friend who is a tow truck driver who said he spends all day just jumping dead batteries on new cars, he said it’s not brand specific, but sure is attributed to the computer tech being more than the current batteries can handle.

I’m glad I have a garage and am able to use Battery Tenders on both cars. I don’t mind the 5 seconds it takes to hook them up.

The window pinch issue would be a door module update which takes 2-3 minutes to flash per door. On the F150 forum, there was a problematic door module OTA that was bricking the door modules for many owners and I helped a few guys reflash it with FORScan. Those are very quick and easy to do.

I completely agree that these newer vehicles put huge strains on the 12v batteries. I can leabve my truck parked and locked for hours and when I walk past it, I hear modules and relays clicking and humming randomly under the hood.

 

[roadpilot]

I'm not employed at a stealership so I'm not able to comment on it directly, but I did raise the issue with my service dept. and they were happy to schedule the update if needed... So IDK, but they seem willing to help getting the update done.

ETA: I do not have failing updates, but I do have an update that was done OTA (for the black screen) and is not updated in Ford's service system yet.

If you have an issue that requires one or more modules updates as part of the repair, the dealership will do that/those updates as part of that covered repair that they are getting paid for (by warranty or by you). However, they will not simply spend hours/days applying module firmware updates that just happen to be available for your vehicle.

 

[roadpilot]

Dealer puts it on a power supply; not a trickle charger. In the case of the PCM, I would not even put it on a power supply because it literally takes 3-5 minutes to flash. When updating an IPMA (for example) that can take 1-3 hours to flash depending on the hardware, connecting the battery to a power supply is mandatory to prevent voltage from dropping and bricking the module. However, this particular update for the PCM is very quick and with FDRS, I would do it with the battery in its current state with zero worries. However, the OTA process will not make a judgement call like a tech would and if the battery is below spec, it will not allow the update to install.

^ This.

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