So0_NaSTy
Well-Known Member
I do. Yeah.Do you guys have an oil cooler?
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I do. Yeah.Do you guys have an oil cooler?
It is yeah. I believe odd ball sites somehow if you pay make you a fake account that acts like a technician and you can buy it. Extremely expensive though. 1 year is like $700. It’s not very useful for normal people honestly. Beyond forscan, I can’t imagine myself needing dealer level tools. It can be used to reboot and flash modules. So let’s say you needed a new PCM, you can do it yourself as if you were at a dealer. But again, who needs that?Be pretty cool. Wish I had access to that. Wish I could see what my spec is. I didn’t even know about the different manuals with one saying 10 quarts and another saying 9.5 floating around. Ford should really clear up that miscommunication.
Yeah I mean I really don’t know. Dipstick is so annoying to tell and I’ve given up on it lol. My tech put in 9.5 qts like his manual tells him, and I ran off with itLooking at my cooler size it could hold 1/2 qt. With using 10qts my stick reads right on the money full.
Same issue. I take out the dipstick, and it’s so beyond inconsistent lolllWell if yall stick around you will see this develop. I’ll be posting data from my car dipstick starting tomorrow . Trying to understand what the heck is going on with my dipstick if anything at all. I’m going for longest mustang7g thread of all time![]()
When you say inconsistent do you mean hot or cold checks and also what’s throwing it off? Each pull and check is different?Same issue. I take out the dipstick, and it’s so beyond inconsistent lolll
Just odd. I’ve tried hot and cold. In my dodge charger, every check in succession is similar reading and clear as day. Answers in front of you. In this car, one swipe is there, another is completely different. Plus: the oil just never seem to be easy to see. It feels almost like the oil isn’t hitting the dipstick. And I know I can’t be low on oil. From factory same issue. These dipsticks are just odd to meWhen you say inconsistent do you mean hot or cold checks and also what’s throwing it off? Each pull and check is different?
Yeah that is weird. I don’t really have an answer for that. The only advice i could say is pick a method and stick with it. I was of the opinion that cold checks were the best as all the oil has had time to fall down. But after this thread apparently hot is the better way. I can’t remember how I used to check my last GT I believe I did a bit of both.Just odd. I’ve tried hot and cold. In my dodge charger, every check in succession is similar reading and clear as day. Answers in front of you. In this car, one swipe is there, another is completely different. Plus: the oil just never seem to be easy to see. It feels almost like the oil isn’t hitting the dipstick. And I know I can’t be low on oil. From factory same issue. These dipsticks are just odd to me
With my experience with cars throughout my life, hot is preferred. But not the second you turn the car off. Wait around 20 or so minutes. This accounts for expansion but it also lets a good amount of oil work its way down from the channels of the motor. Cold is great yes because it’s all down, but there’s 0 expansion, so that kind of holds a drawbackYeah that is weird. I don’t really have an answer for that. The only advice i could say is pick a method and stick with it. I was of the opinion that cold checks were the best as all the oil has had time to fall down. But after this thread apparently hot is the better way. I can’t remember how I used to check my last GT I believe I did a bit of both.
probably getting scientific here but I wonder if the level changes based on how hard you ran the car before you turned it off even if you wait that same 20 minutes. For example just bringing it up to temp then stopping or doing a few pulls then stopping.With my experience with cars throughout my life, hot is preferred. But not the second you turn the car off. Wait around 20 or so minutes. This accounts for expansion but it also lets a good amount of oil work its way down from the channels of the motor. Cold is great yes because it’s all down, but there’s 0 expansion, so that kind of holds a drawback
There is a difference yes. When you drive very rough, there’s 2 things. 1) it gets SIGNIFICANTLY hotter. 2) when driving hard, it causes oil to splash harder and more around the motor, which makes it a tad longer to fully drain into the pan. Either way though, waiting 20 minutes should let it drop either way, but after normal driving is probably much better.probably getting scientific here but I wonder if the level changes based on how hard you ran the car before you turned it off even if you wait that same 20 minutes. For example just bringing it up to temp then stopping or doing a few pulls then stopping.
That’s data I’m still learning. On my 18GT it had the digital gauges with needles signifying how warm the car was now with numbers it’s a bit different. But it seems like 230 oil temp is considered warmed up on my non pp car.There is a difference yes. When you drive very rough, there’s 2 things. 1) it gets SIGNIFICANTLY hotter. 2) when driving hard, it causes oil to splash harder and more around the motor, which makes it a tad longer to fully drain into the pan. Either way though, waiting 20 minutes should let it drop either way, but after normal driving is probably much better.
Oh wow. Never realized how much work the cooler does lol. On a fully operational temperature, the coolant should be DEAD CENTER on the left gauge. The middle is optimal. Regarding oil, with my cooler, I noticed at fully warmed up I hover around 185 give or take. If I’m pushing the car beyond hard like roll racing, I’ve seen it hit max around 205, then it starts to taper down againThat’s data I’m still learning. On my 18GT it had the digital gauges with needles signifying how warm the car was now with numbers it’s a bit different. But it seems like 230 oil temp is considered warmed up on my non pp car.
I could be dead wrong on my number it’s a guess I’m sure someone has hard data out there.Oh wow. Never realized how much work the cooler does lol. On a fully operational temperature, the coolant should be DEAD CENTER on the left gauge. The middle is optimal. Regarding oil, with my cooler, I noticed at fully warmed up I hover around 185 give or take. If I’m pushing the car beyond hard like roll racing, I’ve seen it hit max around 205, then it starts to taper down again
You have an oil temp gauge don’t you? How can you be wrong?I could be dead wrong on my number it’s a guess I’m sure someone has hard data out there.