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BrianJ77

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I thought there'd be more after nearly 1000 miles. Looks pretty clean, too, to be honest. Better in the catch can than in the intake.
 
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cosmo73

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I’m guessing because I babied the car during the 1k break-in recommendation there isn’t more in there. I kept the RPM’s varied as suggested but never really went past 4.5-5k rpm. Since the change I’ve redlined it a few times and expect to see quite a bit more at the next oil change.
 

BrianJ77

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These mustangs have port injection in addition to DI… the port injectors should do a good job of keeping things washed off and cleaned ..unless your tracking the car everyday
Seems like I read somewhere that the port injection is more for low speed/idle and the DI is for when the engine is under load/cruising. Not quite adequate enough to remove intake valve deposits, but better than DI alone. That said maybe Ford has mastered this now. Regardless, I have a catch can recently installed also.
 

Vapor Blue GT

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I don’t think you are going to see as much as say a boosted motor will but none the less it’s helping. Btw, how many port injectors do we have? I’ve heard there are 8 and I’ve heard there’s only one. The one being centrally located on the manifold so a little fuel gets into all 8 cylinders to hit the valves.
 


Dena

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I don’t think you are going to see as much as say a boosted motor will but none the less it’s helping. Btw, how many port injectors do we have? I’ve heard there are 8 and I’ve heard there’s only one. The one being centrally located on the manifold so a little fuel gets into all 8 cylinders to hit the valves.
The specifications read "Dual port fuel direct injection V8" so that would be port and direct injection for each cylinder. Port injection has been used for years and I know they still use systems with a single injector on retrofits for old carburetor engines, port injection is much more desirable on a new design.
 
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Vapor Blue GT

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The specifications read "Dual port fuel direct injection V8" so that would be port and direct injection for each cylinder.

The specifications read "Dual port fuel direct injection V8" so that would be port and direct injection for each cylinder. Port injection has been used for years and I know they still use systems with a single injector on retrofits for old carburetor engines, port injection is much more desirable on a new design.
Ok, thank you. So we have 16 fuel injectors.
 

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What you witnessed at that mileage is about what I pull on a unmodified Gen 3 5.0.

In the store in the cooking section, they often sell any number of measuring cups with discreet markings.

At the first interval, 1250 miles / 2011 kms of use, I had drawn 15ml or close to 1 tbsp. I captured as much over the next interval, for a total of 30 ml or 2 tbsp at 2500 miles / 4022 kms.

If you extrapolate the above to 10,000 mi / 16,000 km, that'd be 120 ml or .5 of a cup.

DI and PI discussion aside, the cans give you a window into what's going on in the engine.
 
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Zig

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What you witnessed at that mileage is about what I pull on a unmodified Gen 3 5.0.

…..

If you extrapolate the above to 10,000 mi / 16,000 km, that'd be 120 ml or .5 of a cup.
By chance any noticeable difference between automatic, auto manual mode, and manual transmissions.

Sorry I haven’t chased down the info but what type of transmission does the op have? Does ‘engine braking’ have any impact?
 

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By chance any noticeable difference between automatic, auto manual mode, and manual transmissions.

Sorry I haven’t chased down the info but what type of transmission does the op have? Does ‘engine braking’ have any impact?
It's a good question. IDK about transmissions, but I do know different driving or setups (track vs. street, blown vs. NA) can result in different amounts between cars. I'd expect that. If an Owner with a can, I'd monitor for consistency and take action when concerned.

I have an MT.

In the car's first season, I was using rev matching (the default) and left it as-is. Street driving, hills, mountains, 😬etc., hitting 5500+ RPM occasionally, every drive, from 100 mi / 160 km to present.

This year, rev matching was turned off. In addition to driving in similar conditions and methods, I began occasionally hitting the highways 😴 on some extended runs.

The catch can captured like amounts each time. Long term, things might trend differently. Many threads I've read, Owners often catch "a bit", but not dramatic (like overflowing) amounts.

I've had oil analysis performed each season, with all results normal.

Seeing a large change in amounts captured, something "weird" (heavy moisture), that'd concern me.
 
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cosmo73

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By chance any noticeable difference between automatic, auto manual mode, and manual transmissions.

Sorry I haven’t chased down the info but what type of transmission does the op have? Does ‘engine braking’ have any impact?
I’m the OP and have the A10. There is a definite difference in downshifting in sport mode. Pretty aggressive and something I’m really enjoying as this is my first automatic Mustang.
 

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I’m the OP and have the A10. There is a definite difference in downshifting in sport mode. Pretty aggressive and something I’m really enjoying as this is my first automatic Mustang.
Cool thx. 1k in the books 2k to go.
 

LETHAL

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Flip side, I am surprised there was that much after 1k. I have the passenger side UPR, and just ordered the driver side to match for Black Friday. I have FI plans down the road so.
 

Mastermind46

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I had a dual can setup on my mazdaspeed 3. I got about the same amount once I switched to a vented can on the PCV to intake manifold side and not much at all on the valve cover to intake can. I was pushing ~26 psi through a gtx3076r and had a decent amount of crankcase pressure. Without the vented can, I would fill them in a few thousand miles. The cans for Mazdaspeeds are much larger than these. I think crankcase pressure has a lot to do with what these collect.
 

Vapor Blue GT

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I had a dual can setup on my mazdaspeed 3. I got about the same amount once I switched to a vented can on the PCV to intake manifold side and not much at all on the valve cover to intake can. I was pushing ~26 psi through a gtx3076r and had a decent amount of crankcase pressure. Without the vented can, I would fill them in a few thousand miles. The cans for Mazdaspeeds are much larger than these. I think crankcase pressure has a lot to do with what these collect.
Did your can have a mesh element inside it or just empty can? The ones recommended for the gm ecotec motors all had mesh elements inside which help capture more oil vapors. The empty cans did very little in comparison.
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