B&O 10" sub replacement?

[AZ_Ryan]

Nice write up!
I did pretty much the exact same things you did here, even cutting out the holes in the new sub with a dremel and cut-off wheel.

One thing to note, and this doesn't matter if you are planning to use a custom speaker grill, but the factory one will not fit if you try to turn the speaker and/or drill different holes for the sub. The ring that the speaker cover snaps onto mounts using the same holes and turning it will cause the cover to be misaligned with the box.

Great point about the cover not working if you drill new holes.

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[Cobrakit]

The factory grill uses the same holes as the speaker. I also believe it will not work with Pioneer hole pattern. I use orginal holes as well and the stock trim ring. See pic below. And I tried to show the front of the grill were the stock trim ring attaches to the plastic pins. I fid an excellent job in breaking every one of them. But you can see the pins and their orientation to try to push before pulling.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

How much difference does this really make to the sound when you are listening to music?

 

[nospleen]

I replaced the sub today. Not a hard job, but a little more work than I thought.

Couple of tips for you guys -

1. It's really easy to break the clips on the outer ring. I didn't totally understand how these worked, but once I got it off I realized you can a get a small screw driveer and push in each tab from the outside of the ring. Just get a headlamp and you can just barley see them.

Broken ^

2. Cutting the holes out of the new speaker metal to use the factory holes was way more involved than I thought. This was by far the most time consuming part. I used a dremmel and cutting wheel. You'll need to cut it like this in order to use the factory holes and screws.

3. The extension wires are really easy. No need to worry about all the different colors. Just put the red wire of each extension through the red/positive clip on each side of the speaker. The other is goes to negative. You can't flip the extensions when attaching to the factory clips. They only go one one way.

4. You don't need a ton of Polyphil. The inside off the box doesn't have a ton of space. I packed it at first and ended up taking some out. Looks like there is more in the picture than there is. I kind of just lined the inside with it. Also, there is no vent in the box, so obviously Ford wasn't concerned about heat.

Three bolts and a wire clip is all there is holding the sub box in. Super easy.

To my ear, the base has much more depth and clarity now. It's not "boomy" like it was before. I can actually turn the up the Bass all the way now without any distortion or aggressive thumping. I'm no audiophile, but I think this is a worthy mod.

Awesome write up. Ordered!

Thanks everyone for your posts here, very helpful.

 

[Starship Enterprise]

I’m looking forward to using the 4 bar grille. It looks cool!

That grill is a 10”?

 

[Gregs24]

How much difference does this really make to the sound when you are listening to music?

OEM sub has a horrible boomy uncontrolled bass. Pioneer is far more musical and actually distinguishes frequencies with no boom through loss of control.

 

[Gregs24]

Awesome write up. Ordered!

Thanks everyone for your posts here, very helpful.

The original thread from the S550 forum still applies.

B&O 10" sub replacement guide | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

 

[Starship Enterprise]

Instead of poly fill I decided to get a small sheet of Dynamat and line the inside of the box with it. Not saying what I’m doing is better, but I think I’m more concerned with limiting any possible rattle that might come from the plastic box.

 

[Cucurú]

These are ones several of us have used.

You could always put a high crossover for us

Cobra….I think the ohms on that speaker are too low for my guesswork, though the fact many of you used it says a lot.

OK I took the center speaker out real quick. The top is 3.5” but the opening is slightly smaller with the screw holes 4” apart.

The opening is only like 3.25” wide and Ford online specs at the B&O website show the center speaker is 80mm or 3.25”. So now I wonder if a 3.5” speaker is a direct drop in?

Specs are 8 ohm and only 12.5 watt. That was directly from the sticker attached to the speaker. it IS a crap paper speaker.

I would hesitate to put anything lower than a 4 ohm speaker or the center speaker would be much louder than the rest.

Need to do more research Before picking a replacement. Because overthinking stuff is

 

[Junkyard Dog]

The original thread from the S550 forum still applies.

B&O 10" sub replacement guide | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

That is great step-by-step instruction with excellent photographs. Thank you for posting.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

 

[steveo1960]

OEM sub has a horrible boomy uncontrolled bass. Pioneer is far more musical and actually distinguishes frequencies with no boom through loss of control.

To my ears, the stock sub has an awful upper mid bass bump that is extremely irritating. I'm installing the Pioneer this week. I might also install the dash speaker as well as I have that one sitting on the shelf..

 

[Cucurú]

To my ears, the stock sub has an awful upper mid bass bump that is extremely irritating. I'm installing the Pioneer this week. I might also install the dash speaker as well as I have that one sitting on the shelf..

It's most like the sub doesn't have enough crossover which allows it to play lower mid-range. That always messes with both bass and lower mid-range. Does your car have an adjustable crossover? I believe we used to set ours at 60, or 80. This way we'd only get lows. I believe people used to use bandpass enclosures without crossovers. In the speakers are mounted in sealed enclosures, and only the front is vented. Makes for extremely large enclosures. You couldn't hear lower midrange even without a crossover.

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