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A battery that has been discharged to 2.7 volts is likely damaged. It will take a long time to recharge from there (days) if you want it to be any good for any length of time. Maximum 1 amp charge rate or you just get a surface charge on the plates but not a deep charge.

I've had many flat batteries / failed batteries over the years and never had a 'charge system fault warning' without there being a charge system fault

No, as explained above

One and the same when the engine is running. It is not possible for them to be different as it is all one circuit.

Doesn't explain 11v when running. At no point should an alternator ever put out that low voltage, plus there is a warning to say a charging system fault. Even if the battery was foobar when the engine is running it should be over 12.7v.

Not unless you cut through the alternator wires to fit them! :giggle:

No - the alternator should provide between 12.7v and as much as 15v but never as low as that. It has to provide more than 12.6v or it can never charge the battery! Smart charging system do vary the voltage and charge rate but that is not normal.

That voltage with the engine running is NOT normal. Your charging system has a fault (as the warning said) so you need to get it to a dealer.

The original thread from the S550 forum still applies. B&O 10" sub replacement guide | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

OEM sub has a horrible boomy uncontrolled bass. Pioneer is far more musical and actually distinguishes frequencies with no boom through loss of control.

Agree Base GT is cheaper because it lacks the PP related goodies needed for harder use. If you save money and buy a base GT and then moan it gets hot then there is not much logic going on!

Rear hinges are adjustable

It really isn't that bad. Apart from the Sub and centre speaker all of the other speakers are non-paper cones now and far from the cheapest speakers known. There are myriad other cars with much poorer systems.

There is no vent at the back, it is a sealed enclosure. Pollyfill will not cause overheating, it just mimics a larger enclosure. Polyfill will make a small difference but not worth worrying about either way.

That is usually a simple adjustment of the hood rubber 'prong' - it screws in or out to adjust.

This has been present since the S550. It is just a resonant frequency though the body / glass to the mirror. You could try 'Blu-tacking' some additional mass to the mirror as a temporary measure to see if a mass change will fix it.

I would email AA, they reply very quickly and can probably tell you the latest info on supply. The German part looks very easy to fit - slot in and tighten one bolt. I'm not sure it is worth it though as long as you apply some underseal to the exposed metal.

There are patches for the holes - the best seem to be from a German which just bolt in place but if it is a 2025 car it may already have the upgraded wheel arch liners. I sprayed inside the holes of mine with underseal spray and there has been no damage at all. The only really 'at risk' part is...

If it is too ferocious just use setting 2 rather than 3. You can cycle through by repeat pressing the button. It will cool quickest and then turn down itself on 3 but a lower setting will still get there in the end.

That shield is almost certainly blocking the ventilation holes on the back so it will get even hotter now.