Oil advice for a supercharged 2026 or 27 Dark Horse?

[TX-TBeau]

I am sure there are lots of passionate opinions on oil, please share your thoughts, I will take it all as useful information. I already have a 2025 GT 6MT that I really enjoy driving. 400A, active exhaust, not performance package. I use PUP 5W30 at 400, 1200, and 3000 miles, now going 2500-3000 between changes. I just ordered a 2026 DH Premium with dealer installed whipple stage 1, performance package, regular ventilated seats ( in TX). I plan to take possession (when it comes in), drive it through break-in to 1500 miles before turning it over for the whipple installation. What oil should I use? Amsoil 5w50 Signature? Mobil 1 5w50 Supercar? Thanks

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[robvas]

Whatever you want. Won't matter that much, people aren't wrecking the bearings on whipple cars.

 

[SR5BART]

I had AMSoil 5W50 poured into mine upon install so that’s what I’m going to stick with.

 

[Billycar11]

Been using Royal purple xpr 5w-50

 

[Q6543]

Motorcraft 5W50 is their recommended oil, I change every 3k

On that note it’s September almost and I only put 1k miles on so far this year, gotta take some trips this fall before winter

 

[TX-TBeau]

Texas summers are brutal, but I don't miss the icy northeast where I grew up. Cars in Texas never have any corrosion and we rarely have ice on the roads. Thanks for the input.

 

[Ninjak]

I use Mobil 1 Supercar 5wx50.

 

[GrabberB]

Been using Royal purple xpr 5w-50

The oil you're using is top shelf in the right application. It contains elevated levels of ZDPP (i.e., Zinc over 4x that of Motorcraft full synthetic).

I highly recommend changing your oil sooner rather than later. Change now, and maybe 2 more in short duration to get that RP XRP oil out. Oils with high levels of zinc can and will damage emission system components and should not be used in a Coyote engine. It's not like it will destroy the engine. Long term will cause issues catalytic convertors likely the first to go. ZDDP (zinc) is sacrificial. Explaining the full process is a boring read so I'll condense to this. The byproduct of ZDDP will eventually fuse itself to the small pores in the cats and cats go bye bye.

I still own a 2000 Dodge 3500 (dually) with a 5.9 Cummins engine (Bought new in 2000) Resides in the garage next to my Mustang. Around 2010 - 2011 I caught the Hot Rod Diesel bug. I spent way to much money on that truck and it now has a highly modified 5.9 Cummins. Getting to the point. I ran high levels of boost (not extreme). To keep the valves from doing the huck a buck with the pistons I installed heavy duty valve springs. This increases the pressure of the tappets to camshaft lobes. I run very high levels of zinc to avoid "wiping" lobes on the camshaft.

My Dodge no emissions high boost high tappet to camshaft lobe pressure = me love zinc. This is were high zinc level oils belong.

 

[Billycar11]

The oil you're using is top shelf in the right application. It contains elevated levels of ZDPP (i.e., Zinc over 4x that of Motorcraft full synthetic).

I highly recommend changing your oil sooner rather than later. Change now, and maybe 2 more in short duration to get that RP XRP oil out. Oils with high levels of zinc can and will damage emission system components and should not be used in a Coyote engine. It's not like it will destroy the engine. Long term will cause issues catalytic convertors likely the first to go. ZDDP (zinc) is sacrificial. Explaining the full process is a boring read so I'll condense to this. The byproduct of ZDDP will eventually fuse itself to the small pores in the cats and cats go bye bye.

I still own a 2000 Dodge 3500 (dually) with a 5.9 Cummins engine (Bought new in 2000) Resides in the garage next to my Mustang. Around 2010 - 2011 I caught the Hot Rod Diesel bug. I spent way to much money on that truck and it now has a highly modified 5.9 Cummins. Getting to the point. I ran high levels of boost (not extreme). To keep the valves from doing the huck a buck with the pistons I installed heavy duty valve springs. This increases the pressure of the tappets to camshaft lobes. I run very high levels of zinc to avoid "wiping" lobes on the camshaft.

My Dodge no emissions high boost high tappet to camshaft lobe pressure = me love zinc. This is were high zinc level oils belong.

i appreciate the concern i have read about this before and know it to be true.

but i dont think it will be that much worse unless im burning oil and i have had catch cans since day 1 and the passenger side one after 5k only had maybe 1/8th-1/6th full so it prevented all that oil from being burned

my other car i have been using this oil for 50,000 miles and no issues and that does not have a catch can i should probably put one on that

 

[TX-TBeau]

Interesting points. Sounds like three choices so far, 5w50 for Amsoil, Mobil 1 Supercar, or Motorcraft.

 

[Billycar11]

 

[GrabberB]

i appreciate the concern i have read about this before and know it to be true.

but i dont think it will be that much worse unless im burning oil and i have had catch cans since day 1 and the passenger side one after 5k only had maybe 1/8th-1/6th full so it prevented all that oil from being burned

my other car i have been using this oil for 50,000 miles and no issues and that does not have a catch can i should probably put one on that

Passing along some friendly advice. And you're correct an engine consuming oil is far more likely to see emission issues sooner.

Appears you've done you homework and understand the risk vs. reward.

 

[ZXMustang]

5w50 full synth is the only requirement. Change it often, its cheap insurance. Dont think too hard otherwise on this.

 

[GrabberB]

Driven Racing Oil is top shelf. Lake Speed Jr. is a smart guy and former key employee of Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil. I'd be interested in seeing hard data and extensive testing to back up his self endorsement claims.

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